Guest WALFY Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Any one changed 1 recently? I have to do mine but can't work out which way is best/easiest. To remove into the cab or take it away through the engine bay. Any tips welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Any one changed 1 recently? I have to do mine but can't work out which way is best/easiest. To remove into the cab or take it away through the engine bay.Any tips welcome funnily enough i took out the one that i sold you a few weeks ago and replaced it with a different splined one that i had bought on here about a week before that. has to come out engine bay side. its mostly obvious what nees to come out in the engine bay, disconnect the column at the bottomand move it out of the way, undo bots attaching it to bottom, undo bolts attaching it to bulkhead plate at top. inside you need to take the clocks off, undo it from the hook it hangs from on the bulkhead, steering wheel off, column cowl off, stalks and ignition etc off (i forgot about this part and wondered why it wouldn't move). it should now be loose. to withdraw you need to turn it through 90 degrees so the brakcet it hangs from in the car can pass through an egg shaped hole in the bulkhead. at this point you'll find that its an awful squeeze to turn this bracket through 90 degrees as the dashboard is kind of in the way, but persevere. unfortunately you'll also discover that whilst you might think that you know better than the haynes manual and fully belive you can now haul it out without disturbing other stuff that you are wrong. alas master cylinder has to come off and be carefully laid out the way, servo has to be unbolted from the inside footwell and moved out of the way. at that point a final heave and you should get it out. i would seriously recommend 2 people are involved in this job due to it taking place inside and outside of the car. mayeb your wiring is very neat behind the instruments, mine involves lots of extra things coming and going as such the column needs to be carefully guided out to prevent the hanging bracket snaging on any wires. whilst one is guiding its path, someone needs to be in the engine bay pulling ad turning it to get it out. hope that helps a bit, its outlined pretty well in the haynes manual and if you don't think you know best like i did it shouldn't take too long. removing and replacing probably took me about 4-5 hours with an hour's worth of help to guide the column from inside the car. a lot of time is spent making sure it doesn't snag and then fiddling with the bulkhead plate to get the new one back in. i spent a subsequent day fettling things to make them fit, but that was all interior work and because i dont have standard stalks and my dash sits about 10mm away from the bulkhead so trim needed sorting. i don't expect you will have to do that so it should be quick to reassemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WALFY Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 B*gger. I was hoping for "unduo a couple of bolts and it'll fall out." Oh well never mind. It'll keep me busy, just as well I have the week off work to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Whats up with yours Mark? you can actually change the "shaft" from the inside of the tube, without having to remove the tube. remove lower UJ's, up just "inside" is a circlip. remove said clip remove steering wheel & nut. get a soft faced mallet and tickle the end of the shaft. it'll push down clear of the support bearings and it's free! the PITA is getting the shaft out of the engine bay... when i last did one, i undid the 2 "outer tube to bulkhead" mounting bolts (under the bonnet) and the single support bolt (inside the cab behind the dash) so that i could physically move the wholt tube thing and eventually i managed to wiggle it out. the early and late shafts (for "county" and "scummy" model steering wheels) will both fit into the same shaft (not at the same time... ) so if you just wanted to swap steering wheels over, thats a consideration. i just fitted one to the Td5 dash on the project110 and early (200tdi) will still fit late (Td5) columns and vice~versa. they're slightly different shapes in places (thicker/thinner) but the overall length and critical diameters are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WALFY Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 On the base of the shaft there is nothing holding it central to the tube. I'm assuming the circlip has come out. I can hold the steering wheel and move the base of the column inside the tube. I spoke to Bearmach to see if there was a bearing that had collapsed but they assured me there was no bearing in there. So if I could change all the removable bits at the bottom that would save me loads of time. Will have to investigate. So what wheel are you using now then Jamie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 These parts pages should help you when taking out the column Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 On the base of the shaft there is nothing holding it central to the tube. I'm assuming the circlip has come out. I can hold the steering wheel and move the base of the column inside the tube. I spoke to Bearmach to see if there was a bearing that had collapsed but they assured me there was no bearing in there. So if I could change all the removable bits at the bottom that would save me loads of time. Will have to investigate. if you remove the steering wheel, and the UJ at the bottom, and the (non existant on yours) circlip, and tap the top of the shaft, it should slide out. what you'll see then on the end (of the shaft) is a bearing which sits on a shank type thing, and "retaining collar" (about 7mm wide, held in with a roll pin through the main shaft), the circlip actually sits up against the bearing, it sounds like the balls from that bearing have all fallen out on yours. the circlip can't go anywhere (unless its broken into two pieces) as it won't fit over the diameter of the shaft. The bearing has "22/36 2RS made in W Germany" on it. i just did a search but not much comes up i reckon, looking up inside the tube (i've got one in bits in the garage, in case you're wondering why i seen to know so much!) that, should you not be able to get the old outer race out, you could (in theory) fit the "new" bearing to the shaft with it's retaining collar, and tap it back up into the tube. this would push the old race further up the tube, out of the way, as there's nothing else in there to interfere with it. then refit the circlip. I've got all the bits here in a bag if you want them Mark (bearing-not new, could do with a squirt of oil, retaining collar and circlip). if you were to get 'er indoors to hold the steering wheel at the right position so that you could knock the rollpin out, then dismantle it all, you could do the job quite easily. it pays to keep the "retaining ring" with the shaft it came off of, the few i've taken apart are obviously drilled by Fred in the machine shop, and he's not too bothered if the hole is exactly through the center of the shaft... some have been off by a little bit, and thus the holes don't line up. picture worth a few words: So what wheel are you using now then Jamie? my bulkhead came (well, would have, if i had got the wheel with it) with the 'orrible 300Tdi type 2 spoke wheel. i like the early thin 4 spoke type (which is the same thread count as the Td5 "county" type wheel) so i'll fit the earlier type, and should a decent leather county Td5 one turn up (Like Porny had that i couldn't afford! ) i might be inclined to fit that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WALFY Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Jamie PM your e-mail over. I may have what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 a decent leather county Td5 one like mine with the RRC flat centre pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prith Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 These parts pages should help you when taking out the column Ralph, Regarding The Anti-rattle Rubber strip 348747. Where does it fit? Cant make out much from your photo. Is it near the upper steering joint? Or do I have to take out the entire steering wheel and its somewhere inside? Need to replace mine as it rattles and there is no rubber strip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 Ralph, Regarding The Anti-rattle Rubber strip 348747. Where does it fit? Cant make out much from your photo. Is it near the upper steering joint? Or do I have to take out the entire steering wheel and its somewhere inside? Need to replace mine as it rattles and there is no rubber strip. upper column bracket the anti rattle strip wraps around the outer column so the bracket clamps it in place. on the attached extract from worshop book,refer to highlighted para 20 omward it's the upper bracket on engine bay side of bulkhead, but the column has to be unbolted/removed to get access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prith Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 As usual Ralph, you are great help. Just wondering where can I get the workshop manual? Can I buy one? Any websites where its available. Or is there any place to download the entire manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 you can find the workshop manual here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted May 12, 2023 Share Posted May 12, 2023 On 3/10/2008 at 8:33 PM, Guest diesel_jim said: if you remove the steering wheel, and the UJ at the bottom, and the (non existant on yours) circlip, and tap the top of the shaft, it should slide out. what you'll see then on the end (of the shaft) is a bearing which sits on a shank type thing, and "retaining collar" (about 7mm wide, held in with a roll pin through the main shaft), the circlip actually sits up against the bearing, it sounds like the balls from that bearing have all fallen out on yours. the circlip can't go anywhere (unless its broken into two pieces) as it won't fit over the diameter of the shaft. The bearing has "22/36 2RS made in W Germany" on it. i just did a search but not much comes up Holy thread revival! I have a noisy steering column bottom bearing and am wondering but also hesitating, about changing it. The method I've quoted is the one I'd like to use but I am doubtful about being able to source a new bearing. In the years since this post, has anyone changed the bearing and where did you find the replacement? Here's a short video, where I tried to be sure of the noise source. Sorry it's in a big window - I can't find a way to re-size videos. IMG_9885.mov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted May 12, 2023 Share Posted May 12, 2023 No idea if they stayed the same over all the years of production, but in my case it was an unusual size, but still a standard part. Any decent bearing factor will be able to source one. I think mine was probably from bearingboys online. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.