bushwhacker Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 The clutch pedal on my 110 has too much travel it does not engage until almost fully out. I have bleed it, looked for leaks none found. It does not rasp going in to gear or when changing up or down. With the handbrake on and letting the clutch out slowly she will stall. I was told this method when buying a car it can point to a faulty/slipping clutch. Should I be planning for a new clutch? Any thoughts on this matter would be most welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Hmm, I've got a similar problem with mine - the bite point is very near the top of the pedal travel. However, I've just discovered that the bite point gets progressively even higher the longer the vehicle is driven until it reaches the point where the clutch starts slipping. I discovered this by accident on Friday after a run of 15 miles or so, as I usually do shorter journeys day to day. Mines going in to be looked at tomorrow but the initial suspect is the master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 Hi My master and slave cylinder were both replaced maybe about 4 years ago could they have given up the ghost again. The last time it was more evident by fluid leaking at the pedal, I was advised to change both and did so. I will have another look at mine. Can you let me if you get your,s sorted it seems we have the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Certainly will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 see the clutch pedal setting info in the 'clutch' thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110_USA Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Only problems I've ever had with a clutch other than normal wear is if the fluid leaks out, then it seemed to grab closer to the floor, and if you let it go long enough I would think you wouldn't be able to get it to disengage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 If the bite point travels upward, it sooner or later goes to the point where there is none... And as Darren wrote, it starts to slip. Time for a new cluch because of normal wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 If the bite point travels upward, it sooner or later goes to the point where there is none... And as Darren wrote, it starts to slip. Time for a new cluch because of normal wear. In my case, I've found that the bite point travels upwards during the course of 10 - 15 miles driving, but it returns to normal after a few hours standing. I strongly suspect failure of the master cylinder but it's in the garage today so I'll hopefully find out for sure later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Ok, got my truck back last night and was told that the master cylinder is fine - in fact it appears to be quite new. The only thing wrong was the adjustment of the pedal where it pushes on the rod inside the MC. I'm not entirely convinced, but I took it for a good long run and it does seem to be working fine. The only problem is having to re-learn how to drive it as the feel of the pedal is so different As it's a very cheap and easy fix, it's worth checking this adjustment on yours before considering a new clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 Thanks for the reply. I have had mine adjusted in and out shake it all about, (joke). If I can remember it is now with the nuts out as far to the end of the rod as it can go that is to say if I moved them out any more they would fall of. I will give it another look and maybe bleed it fully adjusted up the rod. Mine slips the further it is driven. It would seem odd for yours to be cured by adjustment on the rod you may still need the clutch replaced. Is this a new to you rover? How did it start? I noticed mine while off roading a while back, but now I am mot ing it I have got the same problem only on the road. I will up date you if I find anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Yeah, it's quite new to me. Bought it last September but have only been using it as my daily driver since Christmas. As I say, I am a bit sceptical that the fix was that easy but, as it does seem to have fixed it, I'm not complaining at the moment. If you've already tried adjusting yours without success then I guess it sounds like a different problem. I still think I'd consider a MC replacement before a full clutch, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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