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My series 3 200TDI


rjblank

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I have the plug done up with grease (I learned from the small bullet connectors that BL likes to use on the Land Rovers) But the problem was due to the plastic relay housing being slighlty upside down allowing water to pool in it. I relocated it so that the wired point down now... that should allow the relay to drain... :rolleyes: HOPEFULLY...

It gets better everyday... A few more things to do still... At least I won't have a boring summer... :lol:

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Well after driving for another week, I still love the 200TDI. Calculated 6.5 miles to the liter after the fill up. :D I'm not complaining... It used to do ~ 4.2 to the liter...Let's face it, series Landys are as aerodynamic as a concrete block. Maybe with a little fine tuning, it will break 7 miles to the liter. :unsure:

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4.54 litres in an imperial gallon, isn't it?

thats 35 to the gallon.

Thats GOOD!, isn't it?

wow. . . . like the sound of that, compared with a 2286 petrol.

G.

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Gazz, check your calculator... mine says that 6.5 miles to the liter comes out to 29.51 miles to the imperial gallon. yes, it is 4.54 liters to the imperial gallon. Still not bad, but not quite 35...

Now this milage is around town with alot of time spent at 30 mph in third. The engine was sitting in the breakers yard for an unknown period of time. I hope to be able to take it out and run it for a bit... maybe this weekend... who knows. I'm working out a few bugs... I think the new coolant thermostat is faulty. The engine doesn't seem to get very warm. Water seems to flow through the radiator before the engine is up to temp. I suppose this is better than overheating. <_< I would really like to get up to 35 with it. time will tell. it still beats the 16 I was getting.

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Gazz, check your calculator... mine says that 6.5 miles to the liter comes out to 29.51 miles to the imperial gallon. yes, it is 4.54 liters to the imperial gallon. Still not bad, but not quite 35...

Yep, flippin' excel. Probably my mistake though - good thing I don't make a living from using excel to do financial calculations (any more).

30 MPG isn't bad though.

G.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I tried some fuel injector cleaner to see if that would help the little TDI, and it has. I picked up another mile to the liter. 34 miles to the imperial gallon, 28.35 miles to the US gallon. B) BIGTIME happy. The engine is also alot smoother at idle... maybe it will be even better after a few more tanks. :D

I was having a lazy day today visiting Richard... He got a call from one of his customers that didn't quite make it to his Landy Shop... Ok, so he only made it halfway before his 90 was pouring out blueish grey smoke... :blink: It was a beautiful day for road trip... So we took the little blue beast of mine to see what was up and help the 90 make way to Glencoyne.

We found the stranded motorist with his 90's 300TDI firing on only three cylinders :o , and it didn't look promising to drive it the 30 or so miles to the shop...

Time to see if my truck had enough umph to tow a 90... (Ya gotta start with something small the first time, I guess) No sweat... My little series 3 towed the 90 in without even breathing hard... We ran a steady 40 the whole way, hills and all... I am really liking the TDI. :D

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You are right... if.... But it wasn't. It was fresh from the breakers yard, where it had sat for lord knows how long. The owner didn't even remember he had it back there. I only found it because I was searching for the Diffs...

By the looks of the Range Rover that I found the motor in, it was scrapped due to chassis rot. And alot of it. I bet the engine wasn't cared for all that well either. But now it's at home in my landy and seems to be happt there... I know, it's strange to see a 200TDI in a 1988 Range Rover. One of the experts I consulted stated that in the early 90's some Range Rover VM diesels were retrofitted with the 200TDI. I am guessing under warranty by the dealer. This appeared to be such an animal. The wiring looked factory and not messed about, but it also looked way to long.

Next goal is to get 8.5 miles to the liter out of it. I know, it's not realistic... Who ever heard of a Landy getting 8.5 miles to the liter???? That's 38.6 miles to the imperial Gallon... 32 to the US gallon... and the Landy has the same arodynamics of a shoebox... but if I can... :)

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I have heard they will last a long time... That was part of the motivation of the swap. I didn't see much reliability/economy in the 2.25 NAS diesel. Just alot of nostalgia... Too bad the diesel doesn't run on it....

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  • 5 weeks later...

Just a little update on the old landy... It's been my daily driver since the conversion. About 800 miles on the clock since and it is running better and better. I think the injectors were just a little dirty from sitting. The last tank of fuel shows it has settled on 7.5 miles to the liter. I would really like to have it up around 10, but that may be a bit of a stretch for a box in the wind. To see how close I can get, I will play with the fuel diaphram and see how many more miles I can squeeze out of a liter.

I finally relocated the battery to the box under the seat. The wife is happier now that she has a place to put her feet. :ph34r:

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Just a little update on the old landy... It's been my daily driver since the conversion. About 800 miles on the clock since and it is running better and better. I think the injectors were just a little dirty from sitting. The last tank of fuel shows it has settled on 7.5 miles to the liter. I would really like to have it up around 10, but that may be a bit of a stretch for a box in the wind. To see how close I can get, I will play with the fuel diaphram and see how many more miles I can squeeze out of a liter.

I finally relocated the battery to the box under the seat. The wife is happier now that she has a place to put her feet. :ph34r:

Hi take a look at mine not quite the standard of yours but have learnt a bit from your pics. project-green-oval.fotopic.net

Well done David

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  • 2 weeks later...
I have some additional pics from the install and some of how the engine is today (for those that want more info), and some before and after photos of the engine bay.

Hi you know to the left side of there engine there is like a can with a pipe that goes to the brake servo what does this do because my series 2a there is no where to attach this at the moment its just hanging in the wind what should i do with it?

Best wishes

David

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Hi you know to the left side of there engine there is like a can with a pipe that goes to the brake servo what does this do because my series 2a there is no where to attach this at the moment its just hanging in the wind what should i do with it?

Best wishes

David

David,

It sounds like you are talking about the vacuum resevoir canister. It is not needed with the 200TDI. If you have vacuum assisted power brakes, then just connect the vacuum pump on the 200TDI directly to the brake vacuum assist diaphram.

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David,

It sounds like you are talking about the vacuum resevoir canister. It is not needed with the 200TDI. If you have vacuum assisted power brakes, then just connect the vacuum pump on the 200TDI directly to the brake vacuum assist diaphram.

Hi there is no where on the brake system to connect to. Can i just remove the can from the engine?

David

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Hi there is no where on the brake system to connect to. Can i just remove the can from the engine?

David

Thats the vacuum pump, well you cannot remove it, just slip a bit of foam over the pipe to act as a filter and leave it there.

So you are running a 200 powered series with no power brakes?? :o Brave man.................

Grem

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Well, I finally achieved the milage mark of 8 miles to the liter on the last tank... B) time for a new goal. Maybe 9???

I just returned from a 132 mile round trip for some new (to me) diffs. Thanks, David :D

The Landy ran great down and back... The engine runs fine, I was even able to pass traffic on the M11. My only issues lie within the rest of the truck...

My current rear diff has a bearing that sings quite impressively at 60~65. It's somewhat deafening after listening to it for an hour straight each way. :blink: There are a few vibrations that have to go as well. It's safe to say my Landy left me all a tingle from the trip. :lol:

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Well, I finally achieved the milage mark of 8 miles to the liter on the last tank... B) time for a new goal. Maybe 9???

I just returned from a 132 mile round trip for some new (to me) diffs. Thanks, David :D

The Landy ran great down and back... The engine runs fine, I was even able to pass traffic on the M11. My only issues lie within the rest of the truck...

My current rear diff has a bearing that sings quite impressively at 60~65. It's somewhat deafening after listening to it for an hour straight each way. :blink: There are a few vibrations that have to go as well. It's safe to say my Landy left me all a tingle from the trip. :lol:

She really is a really well put together landy.

David :rolleyes:

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  • 1 month later...
My old series 3 had a smokey 2.25 diesel and a top speed of 53 miles an hour (downhill) I just completed (yesterday) a 200TDI conversion (yes, another one) but this Disco engine install is slightly different, hence this post. I owe a huge Thank You to my friend Richard, at Glencoyne Engineering, and his assistant, Adam, for their help. Without them, this effort would not have been possible. Glencoyne's experience in 200DI conversions was invaluable.

"Ok, so what's so different?" you ask... I used the Disco engine mounts, a series radiator, 300TDI intercooler and seperate oil cooler. Other than that, nothing really... My series radiator is in excellent shape and I didn't want to lose it. Besides, it's bigger and theoretically, would cool better (especially with the large cooling fan).

Along the way, I rebuilt the series gearbox, replacing two slightly worn gears and an Ashcroft's high range transfer box.

The only thing I would have done different is the chasis side of the engine mounts... I used old Disco mounts that were lying around, and cut them for what I needed. In retrospect, It would have been easier to use square tubing fron the chassis rail for mounting the disco mounts (like I wanted to from the beginning, but got in a hurry and used what I had around). I know the old mounts would "work" , but the engine vibration transfer to the chassis is too much. With the Discxo mounts, it is so much smoother... now to get my shifter handle to stop vibrating...

I'll have the exhaust pics uploaded soon...

Hi,

I take it all is going well and you are pleased with your conversion.

Great writeup also.

I am currently embarking on a 200tdi conversion on my lightweight hybrid and plan to use the discovery mounts.

I have a few questions i hope you can help me out with.

I take it you have kept the original 4speed series gearbox. (I am planning to use the LT77 5 speed.)

Did you have to move your gearbox (mounts) across?

My reason is this. In the 110 the crankshaft bolt is 15" from the drivers side. This uses the normal 4cyl setup.

The centre of the handbrake drum is 71/4"

With the discovery mounts lined up in my lightweight the crankshaft bolt sits a further inch closer to the driver side at 13 3/4. To make the gearbox parellel to the chassis the centre of the handbrake sits at 6 1/4.

Does your gearbox sit parellel to the chassis? Or is the series engine/gearbox sides more to the driver side like that of the discovery?

I see from your photos, the driver side engine mount has a bit cut out to allow space for the chassis mount. Whats the reason for this? I would have thought being as both were disco they would have met together nicely.

You suggest that the series radiator is bigger. Does this mean bigger than a discovery version? I have no need for the oil cooler as i plan to use a seperate as you have done, but was thinking it would be more efficent.

I also read somewhere that any radiators of a given size, the horizontal tubed version was more effective than the vertical tubes

Finally, i plan to make my own exhaust. Where did you get your flange that fits onto the turbo from?

I hope you dont find my questions demeaning, my intention is not to pick holes in your conversion but to understand the advantages/pitfalls of each concept and see which would suit my application best.

Thanks for any advice and insight.

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Thanks Monster... My responses are highlighted below

Hi,

I take it all is going well and you are pleased with your conversion.

I am overjoyed with the conversion. My milage is nearly doubled over the 2.25 diesel. the last tank averaged 7.8 miles to the liter (35.4 miles to the imperial gallon). Not bad for a vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick.

Great writeup also.

Thank you. :)

I am currently embarking on a 200tdi conversion on my lightweight hybrid and plan to use the discovery mounts.

I have a few questions i hope you can help me out with.

I take it you have kept the original 4speed series gearbox. (I am planning to use the LT77 5 speed.)

Did you have to move your gearbox (mounts) across?

I did use the series gearbox, and it is holding up nicely, but then again, I don't abuse it either. I did not move the gearbox mounts at all. I used them to line up the engine in the chassis. I have not installed the LT77 in a series to see how the mounts/position differ.

My reason is this. In the 110 the crankshaft bolt is 15" from the drivers side. This uses the normal 4cyl setup.

The centre of the handbrake drum is 71/4"

With the discovery mounts lined up in my lightweight the crankshaft bolt sits a further inch closer to the driver side at 13 3/4. To make the gearbox parellel to the chassis the centre of the handbrake sits at 6 1/4.

Does your gearbox sit parellel to the chassis? Or is the series engine/gearbox sides more to the driver side like that of the discovery?

I will assume that you have a UK spec (right hand drive Landy) to answer this. I intended to line up the 200TDI to the same location of the 2.25. I wanted a slight (approximately 1 inch) upward tilt as measured at the front of the crank. You can check this by looking through the hole in the front chassis crossmember that is used for the hand crank starter. (BTW, I don't know anyone strong enough to hand crank a 2.25 diesel)... ANYWAY... I did this to increase clearance between the oil return bung that is welded to the right side of the oilpan. If you move the engine toward the Right side of the chassis (driver side of a UK spec) you will compound the problem. Mine is still too close for my lliking, but has not interfered with the propshaft, yet. Soon, I will pull the oilpan and relocate the bung to a more suitable location. Take a good look at this clearance on yours. I would jack up the Right side of the front axle, with the propshaft in place, and make sure there is sufficient clearance. I suspect that there will not be. If you have parabolic springs, you may be ok.

I see from your photos, the driver side engine mount has a bit cut out to allow space for the chassis mount. Whats the reason for this? I would have thought being as both were disco they would have met together nicely.

I did not use the chassis side of the disco mounts. I made my own. The cut outs were needed because I used oversized steel plating to make the chassis side of the mounts. They are bigger than the factory Disco mounts.

You suggest that the series radiator is bigger. Does this mean bigger than a discovery version? I have no need for the oil cooler as i plan to use a seperate as you have done, but was thinking it would be more efficent.

I also read somewhere that any radiators of a given size, the horizontal tubed version was more effective than the vertical tubes

The series radiator does have a larger surface area than the Disco radiator. All things being equal, more surface = more cooling. I have not read of any difference between horizontal and vertical cooling tubes. If you have a source I would be curious to read it... What I have read states that the reason that car companies switched to horizontal tubes was to allow for lower profile hoods on vehicles while maintaining cooling capacity. I can say that the series radiator has no problems cooling a 200TDI, in the heat and towing. I turn the cooling fan on occasionally just to make sure it still works. Another factor to consider is when using a seperate oil cooler, other than one in the radiator, the radiator has that much less heat to dissipate. I use an Earl's oil cooler and ordered it from Summit Racing in the states. It fit perfectly in the area I wanted and does a great job.

Finally, i plan to make my own exhaust. Where did you get your flange that fits onto the turbo from?

I used the exhaust flange from a 300TDI downpipe. It is the right size and pattern to bolt to the 200TDI turbo exhaust outlet. I have also read that the TD5 flange is the same bolt pattern.

I hope you dont find my questions demeaning, my intention is not to pick holes in your conversion but to understand the advantages/pitfalls of each concept and see which would suit my application best.

I don't mind the questions at all. If you have any more, feel free to ask.

Thanks for any advice and insight.

You are very welcome, any time.

Ray

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One additional thing, I would love to see other 200TDI conversions. Even though mine works well, I am sure there are things that can be improved upon and/or done differently. I don't knock any of the other conversions, in fact I studied them in great detail before embarking on mine... I found some very useful and ingenious ideas to solve the problems that will be enountered.

Don't forget to take lots of pics along the way. It may help the next guy/gal that decides to TDI their Landy.

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  • 2 weeks later...
One additional thing, I would love to see other 200TDI conversions. Even though mine works well, I am sure there are things that can be improved upon and/or done differently. I don't knock any of the other conversions, in fact I studied them in great detail before embarking on mine... I found some very useful and ingenious ideas to solve the problems that will be enountered.

Don't forget to take lots of pics along the way. It may help the next guy/gal that decides to TDI their Landy.

Hi rjblank,

I am just about to weld in my engines chassis mounts and need abit of advice/assurance.

I am have roughly setup my angle iron brackets and am a little concerned about the different height of chassis mounts. (The drivers side being higher than the passengers).

As i have both gearbox and engine swinging i have no real alignment so am going in blind!

Just wondering if you had your engine mounts at different heights? I cant really tell from your pics.

I would have thought they would be made level? Maybe they should be be and due to the weight offset of the gearbox/transferbox would then make the engine swing straight. Just trying to come up with some explanation.

(I have my engine aligned with the engine on blocks taking most of the weight).

I dont want to weld in mounts and then find that when i swing gearbox/tranferbox the engine sits unlevel due to me putting engine mounts in unleveled.

I have included pics. (The engine rubber bolt holes need slight adjustment due to brackets are not as wide as standard)

My crankbolt now measures 14 1/4 from the drivers side. Can you measure yours? I am unable to line up with the crankhandle hole as i dont have one! My LR is running on a designa chassis.

I look forward to your thoughts and findings.

Cheers.

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