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Stephen337

Kickdown cable in mi 300tdi

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Hi,

Whilst getting my engine starting problems fixed (blown relay in the end disabling the ECU!), I asked if they could have a look at why the car seemed to be down on power.

The main thing was that the auto was not holding the gears long under kickdown. It would only rev to about 3300rpm when stamping on the go pedal.

Getting the EDC back has given the engine much more 'zing' but in addition the garage has done a great job in making it much more perky, the downshift is now much more sensitive and will quite freely downshift one or two gears depending on the amount the pedal is pushed. Also now when the accelerator is stamped on the gears are held to a tad over 4000rpm.

The bill mentions 'reset downshift'. I was just wondering how the kickdown was controlled and if its normal for them to loosen up.

What do other peoples autos do?

Ta

Stephen

Oh its a proper EDC one originally from the Japanese market.

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Its just a cable and if you have the rave cd the settings are in there.

Also settings for the cruise cable which takes a lot of the up and down out of the system and makes it a lot nicer.

Lynall

Lynall

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My old one was a V8 but I twiddled with the kickdown settings a bit and it made it a hell of a lot more responsive, it would kick down more readily and hold onto gears longer. In many ways it was better than the D2 which is either normal or Sport, one is too lazy and the other is sometimes too revvy.

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Hi,

Whilst getting my engine starting problems fixed (blown relay in the end disabling the ECU!), I asked if they could have a look at why the car seemed to be down on power.

The main thing was that the auto was not holding the gears long under kickdown. It would only rev to about 3300rpm when stamping on the go pedal.

Getting the EDC back has given the engine much more 'zing' but in addition the garage has done a great job in making it much more perky, the downshift is now much more sensitive and will quite freely downshift one or two gears depending on the amount the pedal is pushed. Also now when the accelerator is stamped on the gears are held to a tad over 4000rpm.

The bill mentions 'reset downshift'. I was just wondering how the kickdown was controlled and if its normal for them to loosen up.

What do other peoples autos do?

Ta

Stephen

Oh its a proper EDC one originally from the Japanese market.

Stephen,

My 300 Tdi auto, non EDC model, goes into 4th just over 80 km/h, and changes one down just below 80 km/h, putting foot to the floor, will make her drop two ratios, and she does go past 3500 rpm. I then get scared and release the pedal to expedite the up-shift. In general I do not like to take a diesel, not even a turbo-diesel to the 4000 rpm mark, they just don't like those high revs. Many 300Tdi manual owners (Discovery) are surprised at the actual pulling power my auto has when accelerating, compared to their manuals, I did no mods to the engine, maybe the auto box does have an edge in terms of smoothness and power/torque curve characteristics?

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My old one was a V8 but I twiddled with the kickdown settings a bit and it made it a hell of a lot more responsive, it would kick down more readily and hold onto gears longer. In many ways it was better than the D2 which is either normal or Sport, one is too lazy and the other is sometimes too revvy.

BogMonster,

Can you tell me how you altered the kickdown, as my 3.5 rangie isn't too lively in that department :rolleyes:

Rhys

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BogMonster,

Can you tell me how you altered the kickdown, as my 3.5 rangie isn't too lively in that department :rolleyes:

Rhys

Look on the engine where the accelerator cable goes on to a bracket assy on the intake, there is a second cable (kickdown cable) which comes off from here and goes down to the autobox which is what "senses" the pedal position. You simply loosen the locknuts and adjust this by a whisker so the autobox governor "thinks" you are using more throttle than you actually are and this livens up the response at part throttle. I can't recall offhand how much I adjusted mine - but it was only a couple of millimetres. There is a "crimped nipple" (workshop manual term!) on the inner core of the kickdown cable which is supposed to be 1mm out from the end of the cable outer (described from RAVE) with the throttle closed, so basically a whisker more than that and see how you like it after a slight adjustment. I just did mine with trial and error. A very small tweak makes a hell of a difference and totally transformed the driveability.

What you also need to do is check (with the engine off!) that you can get full travel on the throttle pedal so it hits the stop before the kickdown cable comes under tension and the limit of travel of whatever is located in the governor and takes all the strain, because somebody once told me that if you over-do it, you rip the guts out of the governor end (or snap the cable) when you boot the throttle hard, and either of these is a PITA!

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Look on the engine where the accelerator cable goes on to a bracket assy on the intake, there is a second cable (kickdown cable) which comes off from here and goes down to the autobox which is what "senses" the pedal position. You simply loosen the locknuts and adjust this by a whisker so the autobox governor "thinks" you are using more throttle than you actually are and this livens up the response at part throttle. I can't recall offhand how much I adjusted mine - but it was only a couple of millimetres. There is a "crimped nipple" (workshop manual term!) on the inner core of the kickdown cable which is supposed to be 1mm out from the end of the cable outer (described from RAVE) with the throttle closed, so basically a whisker more than that and see how you like it after a slight adjustment. I just did mine with trial and error. A very small tweak makes a hell of a difference and totally transformed the driveability.

What you also need to do is check (with the engine off!) that you can get full travel on the throttle pedal so it hits the stop before the kickdown cable comes under tension and the limit of travel of whatever is located in the governor and takes all the strain, because somebody once told me that if you over-do it, you rip the guts out of the governor end (or snap the cable) when you boot the throttle hard, and either of these is a PITA!

Cheers for that, will give it a go :)

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