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locking the engine


stripy

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hi gang

whats the best way to lock the engine on my 1998 300 tdi auto, i need to do the crank bolt up, i have got a flywheel locking pin but cant see where to put it :blink: i tryed in the wading plug hole but although it screwed up it didnt seem to reach to lock it up.

also the cambelt is torqued to 14lb is it ok to do it with the clickey type of wrench or have i got to do it with the pressure type wrench.

cheers john

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hi gang

whats the best way to lock the engine on my 1998 300 tdi auto, i need to do the crank bolt up, i have got a flywheel locking pin but cant see where to put it :blink: i tryed in the wading plug hole but although it screwed up it didnt seem to reach to lock it up.

also the cambelt is torqued to 14lb is it ok to do it with the clickey type of wrench or have i got to do it with the pressure type wrench.

cheers john

John,

On the 300 Tdi auto (4-speed) the front of the bell housing, i.e. the vertical flat side facing the engine, has an oval access cover, bolted down with a no 10 and 13 bolt. Loosen the no 10, and remove the no 13 bolt. Swing the oval access plate away from the no 13 bolt opening. If the engine is at T.D.C., the locking pin will screw into the threaded opening where you removed the no 13 bolt, and you should be able to slide the lock in position. I normally use a small mirror to make sure the recess in the flywheel is lined up center with the no 13 bolt hole.

Phil's way, by bolting a locking bar to the damper pully (there is a special tool available) will be the better way, as the locking pin may tend to yield after applying the 80 Nm torque, and then turning the crank shaft damper pulley bolt a further 90º.

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thanks for the awnsers

i found a locking tool on difflock but its £60 + p&p which i cant afford at the mo, any other ideas

do you think the clicky torqwrench will do on the cambelt as i dont have a bendy one

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You can use the click type torque wrench, but the important thing to remember is as soon as it clicks - maintain that same tension without increasing/releasing the lever. I take it you're not happy to do the starter motor trick to undo the crank pulley bolt? You could remove the starter and lock the ring gear, but on an auto there is no huge flywheel to take the strain, so this might not be wise - especially if the bolt is being stubborn.

Les.

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You can use the click type torque wrench, but the important thing to remember is as soon as it clicks - maintain that same tension without increasing/releasing the lever. I take it you're not happy to do the starter motor trick to undo the crank pulley bolt? You could remove the starter and lock the ring gear, but on an auto there is no huge flywheel to take the strain, so this might not be wise - especially if the bolt is being stubborn.

Les.

hi les

i done the flicky starter trick to undo it , its trying to do it up i'm having problems with.

hopefully a matey may be able to knock me up a locking tool, i'm taking him the pulley tomoz.

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My locking tool engages in the 4 slots in the damper rather than bolting on as the torque required seems like a recipie to shear 4 x M8 bolts of a bolted locker.

Well it doesn't. Even with only 2 bolts. And I have the genuine parts Churchill tool. 2 x 8.8 bolts are fine.

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My locking tool engages in the 4 slots in the damper rather than bolting on as the torque required seems like a recipie to shear 4 x M8 bolts of a bolted locker.

there is no slots on the pully my 300 tdi auto , the pully is the damper aswell & only has the 4 bolt holes.

a mate is know turning me up a locking tool

cheers john

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