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New Owner Wanting to pick brains!


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Hi fellows!

I used to own an 1977 Series 3 88 Petrol, but sold this in Easter. :(

However, this was because I had purchased a 2.5 N/A 90 instead woohoo! :P

Until this Easter, my poor Series 3 had been sitting undercover for many years and i'd relegated myself to driving a lovely normal but boring car (which is currently for sale by the way)

Anyway, having bought mysef this hardtopped ex farm, covered in mud, straw, you name it its been in it vehicle, I'd like to pick all your brains as to where to begin 'doing it up'

Good points Very very sound chassis and strong pulling engine with no smoke! Gearbox seems fine, a little hard to engage 5th sometimes though. Everything else running gear wise seems to be in good order.

Not so good, fair amount of aluminium corrosion on all panels, rotton front doors at the base and a nice air conditioning hole in the bulkhead corner piller.

I bought the vehicle for a good price I think £1500, but would now like to spend a bit more over the months.

What are peoples thoughts on....

Headlamps whats the best conversion to modern halogen bulbs, where to go and what price and is it really worth it?

Rear windows?? mine is currently without, I would aim to carry passengers but .... without at least there are no leaks, and its more secure.....thoughts??

Rear seats .... is it worth spending the extra money on the individual rear seats or will bench seats suffice for a moderate journey of say an hour n half.

Where can I find some material/Carpet to put in the rear tub to act as soundproofing and make it look tidier.

Engine... is it worth putting in a K&N or equivilent Air filter and what are the pros and cons of doing this ( i had one on my petrol series 3 which was god but I have no real working knowledge with living with a Diesel)

what other mods are there that would help boost power or make the vehicle more fuel efficient? ( i've seen some random things on ebay claiming power increases and fuel savings!)

lastly... how many miles should I be getting from a tank of Diesel in this 2.5n/a ? ?

Sorry for all the Q's

I want to get stuck in but want to do things properly and for a reason.

Cheers

Phoenix

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I'm by no means an expert or even one who is very knowledgeable, but I can help on some things. Someone will probably help better, but as no responses yet, I'll pitch in. On the filter, an oil bath (I assume thats what you have and are thinking of converting to a regular filter) is the best, in about every sense of the word, it's just messy when it comes to cleaning/changing time. I don't think there is an appreciable diffrence in performance between the two. (I might be wrong) I have a 110 3 door, also a 2.5 N/A, and have 90' size seats in the rear, they are comfortable for about an hour then start to be a bit more uncomfortable, they can fit two people well (one in each; for better leg room) I've seen the forward facing seats and they are a bit too cumbersome for my taste. Just personal preference, I hate halogen bulbs, especially when they are on someone else's vehicle and I get to stare at them during the night, they are far brighter than necessary for typical applications. I get about 400 miles to a tank in a 110' not sure of the capacity in a 90' but mine holds about 20 gallons. Again I'm not an expert, but, I don't think much can be done to boost a 2.5 N/A, its "light" for lack of a better word, but gets the job done, my max cruising speed is between 80 and 90 kph. You might be able to retrofit a turbo but I don't know much about that. If it was a farm truck I would defiantly change the transmission, gearbox, differential, and swivel fluids in case they have accumulated some water. That might also help some with the sticky 5th gear, while not a fix, it might lube things up a little. Not sure if the transmission and gearbox can accumulate water but I would change them none the less. I have some pretty gangley after market windows cut into the rear. They only leak a little. I like the added light inside and it helps a bit backing up. My windows are also sliding so when they are cracked and the front vents open, it creates a pleasant draft. Hope I was able to help.

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Cheers chap, any thoughts on things are greatly appreciated at the moment!! I'll check the gearboxes as I've just read about not being able to engage low ratio (which at present i dont think I can) but i'm not sure I've tried properly!

Thanks :P

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I can't remember many of the things you asked, but I rember a few

1. My gearbox does the same-however its now lost fifth altogether. I believe its syncromesh, but havent had time to look, and yours might be different. Check to see if it does it in low range-if it dosnt, its the gear itself.

2. I got 85mph out of my engine in 4th (downhill, personal emergancy) and it screamed at me all the way. Get a turbo, it'll cruise at 80 easy. The engine can be tweaked to get more out- my mate has a series 3 with a v6 essex, he worked on his old one and got alot out of it. Not sure how much

3. Im mid replacing the back with ali sheets (chequerplate aint cheap!), but i've seen them sound proofed by changing all the rubber mounts-stops a bit of the vibrations. Lose the seats if you can.You can always re bolt them in if you need them. I've done a 6 hour journey in the back of a military 90 on bench seats. couldnt walk afterwards. But i wouldnt put anything else in-personal preference i guess

4. the doors isnt surprising sand them down and re prime them if you want. or look on ebay. Doors arnt cheap

5. rear windows are nice for slip roads (blind spot, all round general vision!), but again, i dont like them. If you really want them, again ebay for a complete back.

I dont agrre with change everything. I'm a tree surgeon, and ive driven some beaten up landys with 3 inches of mud in the back, but there usually pretty sound mechanically. Its worth draining everything and general stuff like that. when was its last service?

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Last serviced when I bought it from a local landy specialist who also gave me 3 months warranty if anything goes bang (within reason)....Mechanically apart from 5th which isn't toooo bad its pukka. Its just the cosmetics of it and i'm not too fussed, afterall its a landrover but I want to do jobs that will prolong its life and perhaps increase the value.. and ultimately the fun factor and general comfort and practicality ( i do loads of camping so I can already feel the urge to put a roof rack on the top and a tent... but ... money doesn't seem to grow on tree's....(though I spose it kinda does for you being a tree surgeon)

Cheers for the pointers though =]

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the 2.5n/a is a good engine and little goes wrong with them .

the rocker cover gasket will probably leak oil and they need changing regularly and making sure they fit nicely .

timing belts last for ages and no real issues with them on this engine .

for decent headlight you want to buy a pair of CRYSTAL headlights , see www.paddockspares.com

these are direct replacement 7" diameter headlights which have shaped reflector and a clear glass , they are real nice headlights when you drive with them and have a much more defined pattern which seems just right for my landy anyway .

you only need standard 55w bulbs in them too and the reflector is made of polycarbonate and wont rust out .

paddocks sell pilot lamp types of these headlights as well but you have to ask for them , they are the same prices for either type .

the lamps listed on the website have just headlight bulb fittings , but you can also buy the ones with pilot lamp bulbs in too , if you ask for them ..

the ones paddocks sell are CE approved and carry the E marking and are legal for use on any vehicle .

.you will find you have to give the pre heat about 30 secs in order for the engine to start easily , they tend to need lots of pre heat .

the paris rhone starters do get problems with brushes sticking in the motor , you should tap the starter now and then to dislodge the carbon that may build up and stop the brushes from sliding in the slots .

heater switch stops working in 2 settings and only runs flat out, the resistor in the circuit usually loses solder joint on the slow speed side , easy fix .

heater motors do stop of go intermittent, usually the brushes go in them but you can buy new heater motors .

brakes are very good on the 90 , pads and shoes last for ages .

hope you enjoy it .

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Nah long hours, bad pay. Get to drive unimogs now and again though.

Have a look out for a ex power company 110. There a well good piece of kit-used to have one at a company i worked for. Does anyone have one on here?. If it is the syncro then it should have come up in the service-unless its just started??

and as for the rocker gasket, change the pipe to new (better sized) one. and like m0bcg said change them loads. Otherwise the manifold gets little pools of oil. And it burns...needless to say dodgy as hell...

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Thanks m0bcq,

I've seen the crystal ones you have talked about retailing for around £30 ish. I got quite confused though with the different types of replacements on offer and the huge difference's in price. cheapest conversion i've seen was £20 most expensive was £60. The current lights are not bad, but I feel that there are some blind spots in the pattern or rather darker areas that seem tooooo dark for my liking.

My engine is starting wonderfully, 10-15 seconds on the plugs in the morning first thing seems to work fine and then once she has had a good run she will start up all day without the need for the plugs.

Fan switch I think is working but other than on full doesnt do much anyway though I find the heat it produces on full is more than adequate, I've seen a kit on ebay that allows you (apparently) to change the slower speed setting to a higher one between full on and not quite full on. Its £15 ish not including P&P

One thing i did forget to mention is that the fuel light gets a bit excited on the merest snif of the fuel gauge getting to the half way mark... any ideas on where to look first to cure this .. nothing more than annoying problem? I wasnt sure if it was just a dodgy connection or whether a new sender unit would do the job??? the fule gauge never seems to quite read Full..

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Not much you can do about the low fuel warning light flashing at 1/2 tank level, it's just the way it works. only 2 option is to retrofit a TD5 instrument panel [search for the 'wibbly wobbly speedo' thread everything you need to know in there [the td5 speedo controls the low fuel warning] or disconnect the low fuel light & be even more worried about when you'll run dry

Please read & take notice of the pinned thread at the very top of the Defender forum list, it will help you use the forum. Cheers & finally Welcome to LR4x4.com :i-m_so_happy:

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So, when you say change regularly regarding the rocker gasket.... how regularly? I plan to do most of the work myself as I have a little knowledge after working on my brothers Range Rover which is fitted with a 4203? Perkins Diesel... Noisy noisy engine but quite powerful it seemed though albeit..... sluggish

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they use those on dosko chippers. Very powerful, but the soleinoid goes, and it hates starting in cold weather.Just check them i geuss...ive changed mine a few times, but that was because i possitioned my air filter wrong.after that i havnt had to....yet

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I "had" a 2.5n/a and while it was in the truck I found it fine, most of the time. Motorways were a chore but I normally took "scenic" routes to miss them. Hills also posed a problem, even the slightest incline in 5th gear dropped the speed quite quickly.

I however think this was to do with the different (newer, R380) Gearbox it had fitted. While off road it was great though, plenty of "grunt". Sadly there is very little you can do to a 2.5n/a to improve the power, I would advise agianst mounting a Turbo onto it, several of the components won't last long under the strain of a Turbo.

I have one of the kits off eBay to improve the Fan Speed, Speed 1 now actually does something but Speed 2 is unchanged (still sounds like a Hurricane in the Dash). Clears the screen in a few minutes now, instead of 25. For the size of the truck and the fact it has no insulation or sound deadening, it certainly heats up quick inside...

P.S - I am in the process of fitting a 300tdi into my truck, missing out motorways all the time was eating my fuel. Green Laning in Derbyshire, which is all hills, just got too much - dropping to 1st on a hill made me decide :D.

Cheers

Matt2

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phoenix,

If you pm wkw90 he has a pair of hard top side panels with almost new side windows for sale.It's an easy bolt/unbolt job to fit them and not too far to come to pick them up either :)

Mo

Top bananna! Sorry to be dumb with the acronims... PM...??? Is it personal message by anychance? nothing to do with Pre-mestrual etc...I hope..

Cheers for all the tips and pointers though, I can see me being a very busy bee indeed.

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PM...??? Is it personal message by anychance?

Yep :D PM = Personal Messgae, when you recieve a PM a small pop up window will appear on your screen & if you look at the very top right under search & help, you'll see the number of PM 's awaiting your attention, to read all click on My Controls on the same light blue bar above. :D

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Yep :D PM = Personal Messgae, when you recieve a PM a small pop up window will appear on your screen & if you look at the very top right under search & help, you'll see the number of PM 's awaiting your attention, to read all click on My Controls on the same light blue bar above. :D

AH excellent,

Cheers Governor, slowly getting used to all these different tabs .. :blink:

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Another vote here for the crystal headlamps, another bonus of being polycarb is you can drill a ~5mm hole at the bottom of the lens to let water out :D

Where can I find some material/Carpet to put in the rear tub to act as soundproofing and make it look tidier.

There's always... carpet :P although sticking it down could be a bit of a chore, and it can be tough to find stuff that will stick nicely to aluminium that gets cold & wet. B&Q do various flavours of rubber mat, including a chequer-plate patterned on. TBH trying to soundproof or waterproof a Land Rover is like herding cats, I wouldn't bother.

Air filter - don't bother with K&N, they let more of everything through. Fit a bigger, standard, filter - a 200TDi filter form a Disco or Defender will be easy enough to attach and will be capable of flowing much more air because of the turbo. I'm using one on my 4.6 V8 and it's fine.

You can tweak the fuel pump up a bit (I believe there have been various articles in mags / the tech archive but I don't really pay attention to diesel stuff) but apart from that it's not really a performance engine - their forte is chugging along forever in a perfectly adequate and reliable fashion. If you start pushing them you're liable to lose the reliability which is their strong point.

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I'd add one vote to the pile 'avoid K&N, and similar'. I've used one, and however good or bad they are out of the box, there is no way the average home user can make sure they work as well after washing and re-oiling, despite the 'Recharger' kits you can buy.

I'd add another vote to the 'use a standard filter and housing' pile.

From reading other people posts, the one noise dampening kit that does work is Horse mat, or Cow mat. A bit more expensive than anything you get from the sheds, and damps by virtue of it's weight, as well as the fact it doesn't support vibration itself.

HTH.

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Crystal headlamps here we come then....

With regard to the engine, I'm not really looking to turn it into a GTi (cause I know its not really possible), I would like to find out more about anything that will increase its efficientcy, it may just be that keeping it well maintained is my best bet? As I have said I have limited knowledge of Diesels, with petrols i know you can run them sweetly by tweaking points and keeping it all clean and tuned.

I know that Diesels need to be able to breath which is why I wanted to know more about the old K&N jobs, but I like that 200/300Tdi air box idea. I'm guessing it wouldnt be much work in fixing it in?

Cheers for the advice ;)

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instead of a Tdi air cleaner unit you could use the TD unit, it'll fit in the same place as your existing air cleaner & it doesn't use the oil bath & it's through flow will be better as it's meant for a turbo to breathe through.

maybe the above won't make that much difference simply because the filter elemnt is the same [LR part NRC9238] for both engines.

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instead of a Tdi air cleaner unit you could use the TD unit, it'll fit in the same place as your existing air cleaner & it doesn't use the oil bath & it's through flow will be better as it's meant for a turbo to breathe through.

Thanks western, I'll source one of them then methinks! I don't want to mess around too much as the engine seems to be running well at the moment and in the back of my mind is that old saying, 'if it aint broke, dont fix it'

Cheers

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Hi Phoenix,

Welcome to LR4x4. Another vote for using a std LR product filter, you could look for a EFI RRC can nice and compact and suitable for a 3.5+ litre engine so loads of capacity. Also if you don't plan on running fully loaded or towing heavy trailers it may be worth replacing the transfer box with a Disco1 , they are 1 : 1.222 high range ratio whereas the 2.5n/a is 1 :1.4 ...it probably won't increase top speed hugely but will drop the engine rpm at 'cruising' speed.

Side windows can be found in your local scrappies from Transit/LDV minibuses etc.

I'm in Suffolk too so if you get stuck on anything pm me .....

Oh yeah and rubber/closed cell foam matting can be got from Walker rubber in Ipswich ;)

Cheers

Steveb

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Hi Phoenix,

Welcome to LR4x4. Another vote for using a std LR product filter, you could look for a EFI RRC can nice and compact and suitable for a 3.5+ litre engine so loads of capacity. Also if you don't plan on running fully loaded or towing heavy trailers it may be worth replacing the transfer box with a Disco1 , they are 1 : 1.222 high range ratio whereas the 2.5n/a is 1 :1.4 ...it probably won't increase top speed hugely but will drop the engine rpm at 'cruising' speed.

Side windows can be found in your local scrappies from Transit/LDV minibuses etc.

I'm in Suffolk too so if you get stuck on anything pm me .....

Oh yeah and rubber/closed cell foam matting can be got from Walker rubber in Ipswich ;)

Cheers

Steveb

Hey Steveb,

Thanks for the info, hopefully see you around Suffolk at somepoint!

I'm definately going to checker out Walker Rubber, thanks !!

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