tuko Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 Today I finally closed the deal for a 1998 Defender 300Tdi motor with a meager 170000km on it, with a full service history. I've heard this engine running and it basically ran sweet! I'll be picking up the motor later in the week, but this is only the first of many new steps taken to get this motor into my hybrid. First, I'll be mounting the motor to the excisting series 3 transmission. I've been doing some searching on the internet and this is what I've found, so that I can mate the 300tdi to a series transmission. "You need the backplate/flywheel housing from a 2.5 diesel or TD, this bolts straight on the 300 block and allows it to mate to the Series gearbox with a stud removed." Do you need both the back plate and flywheel housing or is it just the fly wheel housing that I need to put them together? I wold like to get get this sorted out , so that I can place an ad in the items wanted section. I've thought long and hard about the turbo on the 300Tdi and I've finally came to the conclusion that I will not be using it. I'm going to run the engine as a 300Di, like the earlier posts with ref to the 200Di conversions. A side note, the turbo on our Disco is (I believe) on it's last legs, so I can replace it with this one. Motor mounts will be interesting to make, but are doable. The hardest will be the right side, with the placement of the oil filter. The local LR mechanic has suggested that I look at using the oil filter housing from a 940 turbo, as the filter is at 90 degrees from the block, making room for the Volvo turbo. ?? Possibly a remote filter, but what vehicle to look at for that ?? Many questions I realize, but this is going to be a fun conversion that I'm really looking forward to, as I've always wanted to convert the hybrid to a diesel one day. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiagoc Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 Jericho has a 2a with a 300TDI and an electric PAS pump from a citroen saxo, detailed in his post at the Member's Vehicles. It may be worth to speak with him about the conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjblank Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 I look forward to seeing how you get along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jericho Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 No turbo? You must be joking .I think it will be a much less enjoyable engine without one. Change the flywheel housing - yes.But what is the back plate? The 300 rear crank seal is different to na/td/200 - you have a choise of using the crank seal that goes with your flywheel housing,or doing it the hard way and cutting a large hole in your new housing so that it will fit over the 300 rear crank seal plate; thats what I did. Engine mounts - I used 300 tdi engine mounts without any problem.No issues with an oil filter (until I fitted a prop with a double cardan joint at the diff end - I now have a very short filter fitted.) Best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share Posted April 15, 2008 you have a choise of using the crank seal that goes with your flywheel housing jericho, wouldn't the above be easier? I to wonder whats the back plate, but that was a quote I found else wheres on the interent. Oh well, I'm heading in the right direction, thats what matters. As for the engine mounts, they didn't hook right up to the series 3 mounts, did they? You welded new mounts on the frame to accept the engine mounts, right? Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon W Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 Having driven my 2ootdi with out the turbo connected up, you will find it very flat, soon runnig out of puff and unenjoyable to drive. It was even slower than my knackered 2.5 petrol. Why bother buying an expensive engine and then not using half of it. You may as well just put a 2.5D in as they are cheap and meant to be run without a turbo so may have more power. Just my thoughts Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jericho Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 jericho,wouldn't the above be easier? As for the engine mounts, they didn't hook right up to the series 3 mounts, did they? You welded new mounts on the frame to accept the engine mounts, right? Yes,I think the above would be much easier. I welded 300tdi mounts on the chassis. Jerry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 Jon, The great thing with the 300Tdi is that the turbo is bolted onto the side of the exhuast manifold, therefore I can bolt it back on, if I so desire. Can somebody clarify this below statement: "You need the backplate/flywheel housing from a 2.5 diesel or TD, this bolts straight on the 300 block and allows it to mate to the Series gearbox with a stud removed." I was just told that this above statement is not true. Is there anybody with first hand experience that can confirm or deny this. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jericho Posted April 17, 2008 Share Posted April 17, 2008 Can somebody clarify this below statement: "You need the backplate/flywheel housing from a 2.5 diesel or TD, this bolts straight on the 300 block and allows it to mate to the Series gearbox with a stud removed." I was just told that this above statement is not true. Is there anybody with first hand experience that can confirm or deny this. I can confirm for an absolute fact that the above statement is true in relation to nas2.5 diesel and a series3 4 cylinder bell housing(6cylinder is different).I bolted it all up myself.I don't even remember removing one stud,but it may be so. I am also pretty much certain that the same is true of Td and 200 tdi housings - they all bolted up to the same lt77 gearbox after all. Have faith,it all works a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 17, 2008 Author Share Posted April 17, 2008 Jericho, Thanks for the confirmation. I was left wondering today after talking with the gentleman who's doing the 200Di conversion. He was not completely sure, nor was he sold on the idea that the 2.5TD fly wheel housing would bolt up to the 300 block and the series 3 transmission. Your comfirmation has save me from a few new grey hairs. Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 The NAD and Td housings bolt up to the LT77. And LT77 is exactly like a Series box bellhousingwise. The NAD engine is a "slip on". Now I haven't seen a 300Tdi at short range, but wait until you see it before worrying. It could be like a 200Tdi, just a matter of drilling and tapping a few already existing holes and moving the studs to fit the box pattern. If the bellhousing is circular in shape... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 Examining these pictures, can somebody tell me why the 300Tdi housing won't fit onto a series 3 transmission? From the look of things removing one stud and now having to drill out the 4 bottom holes for the strengthening bolts, this appears to be the same process as using a 200Tdi fly housing housing. I just got off the phone with a Swede who says I need to do a bit of measuring tomorrow, but other than that and until I know the exact measurements, I'm pleased that this might work. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 A "Swede"? Edith: The bellhousing looks tilted in the first pic, exactly like the 200 ditto looked on mine. But maybe that's only in the pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 I think that you are tilted! Haven't been in the whiskey today, have you ?? . . . . BTW, it is square/plum/flat. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 How come you are using that housing and not the one I sent you Todd? It would go straight on then with just the one stud being removed. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 Hej Les, I never knew that you sent it! My computer must be acting up again cause I didn't see any messages. As it is the fly wheel housing hasn't come yet. PM me with more details so we can settle things up. Many thanks, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjblank Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 Looks great Todd! My recommendation, countersink the 4 lower holes and use allen head bolts that sit below the bell housing mating surface. I found that I could not get two of the four bolts to go in through the bellhousing due to the curved surface and the other two needed an angled spacer to bolt up square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 I sent two - one to another forum member (who recieved it), and one to you in Swedeland This was a few weeks ago now, so you would have recieved it by now I would have thought. I have another one here - I can send it on and worry about the other one another time? You asked for a Gen rear crank seal as well, which is with the one I already sent. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingdong Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 i thought with a 200/300 tdi all you had to do was remove a stud and the engine would then mate with the engine. graham. s11a swb bronze green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingdong Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 sorry men't to say the engine would mate with the g/box. der. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjblank Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 i thought with a 200/300 tdi all you had to do was remove a stud and the engine would then mate with the engine.graham. s11a swb bronze green. Well, yes it does "mate" or "bolt up", but there is a stiffening ladder in the bottom of the engine that is anchored by the four bolts in question through the bell housing. Some will tell you that they are not really needed... I believe they were put there for a reason. The easiest way to resolve the situation is using 80mm allen head bolts... here's some more info for your reading pleasure... http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversion.htm It may explain it better than I can... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingdong Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 thanks rjblank going to fit a 200 tdi in my s11a swb in the summer never herd of a strengthening ladder before thats all. graham. s11a swb bronze green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 I sent two - one to another forum member (who recieved it), and one to you in Swedeland This was a few weeks ago now, so you would have recieved it by now I would have thought. I have another one here - I can send it on and worry about the other one another time? You asked for a Gen rear crank seal as well, which is with the one I already sent. Les. Les, absolutely nothing has ended up in the mailbox. Strange isn't it, JSG sent me an intercooler and I had it in 6 days flat! Flipping postal!! If you have a link to the carrier and an item number, I can trace the package hopefully finding it not in some far off euroland. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 i thought with a 200/300 tdi all you had to do was remove a stud and the engine would then mate with the engine.graham. s11a swb bronze green. Graham, the 300Tdi fly wheel housing does differ from the others. The rear crank seal is in its own housing not being a part of the fly wheel housing. AS far as I can see, your right though the removal of one stud and she bolts right up. Like Ray has mentioned, the lower bolts will need to be user made and the stiffener portions, where the motor mounts bolt up to will need to be addressed. (used or removed) You can see the "ladders" in the above pictures near the botton of the fly wheel housing. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 29, 2008 Author Share Posted May 29, 2008 A little more progress today, changed over the clutch and pressure plate, did the required measurements and nearly everything was a mirror of each other. The only difference was depth from the fly wheel housing face (using a straight edge) to the fly wheel brass bushing, the series 3 depth was 2mm closer/shorter than the 300Tdi's fly wheel housing. With the removal of 4 studs at the bottom and one on the right, she fit perfectly snug as it should. At the bottom where the 4 securing studs are removed, I can at the very bottom drill out the bell housing so that I can re use 2 of the studs. So of the 12 studs that are on the fly wheel housing, I can use 10. ......... Is that OK ? Or should I try to use all of them. I could try to drill out the bell housing so that the studs can be used, but the metal is angled there, if I were to use a grinder to level the area it might weaken that area ? As it stands, where it is thicker for the previous studs, there is no chance of using them again. If things go as planned (wife is off tomorrow) I might try a dry fit, to see clearances and where the new motor mounts will need fixing. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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