paulnb57 Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Todd. Im going to start this conversion on mine (Series 1 88inch) tomorrow and have a couple of questions, What have you done about the serpentine belt and the power steering pump? I reckon on leaving the pump in place short term, but wondered if you'd managed to source a shorter belt??....... Part number/supplier? Does a Series water temp sender fit in place of the 300 one? Cheers and thanks for your conversion posts........... Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 4, 2009 Author Share Posted December 4, 2009 Great work, Todd. If you were to do it again would you do anything differently (I am about to do the same thing - just picked up a Discovery 300TDI for the right money yesterday)? I am going to use the turbo, though! Simon. Hej Simon, sorry for the delay. If there was something that I would differently it would be the exhaust. Where I have it routed now, I'm beating the h€ll out of it when off roading. Thanks to the clearances being at the very min. and that I've compressed the piping a bit it now rattles against the frame.....it's driving me nuts! You will find that it will be so tight for the air pipes from the air filter to the turbo that it's going to be impossible to route it as it's formed. You may have to fab. something to work for you. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 4, 2009 Author Share Posted December 4, 2009 Todd. Im going to start this conversion on mine (Series 1 88inch) tomorrow and have a couple of questions, What have you done about the serpentine belt and the power steering pump? I reckon on leaving the pump in place short term, but wondered if you'd managed to source a shorter belt??....... Part number/supplier? Does a Series water temp sender fit in place of the 300 one? Cheers and thanks for your conversion posts........... Paul Hej Paul, the power steering pump I left it where it was and connected it to the reservoir so that it simply circulated the power steering fluid back and forth. The reservoir is mounted just in front of the radiator on the left hand side. By doing this so, I didn't have to go through the hassle of trying to match up a belt and if I ever needed a belt I could simply drop into any LR dealer for a replacement. The temp sender unit didn't directly fit, but there is an adapter that I screwed into the thermostat housing elbow and placed the sender unit into it. But I ran into problems there though....the sender unit wouldn't work, so thinking that it was a duff unit, I bought another one and it didn't work either. Why the sender unit didn't work at this location I never did figure it out but rather what I decided to do was use the existing Defender sender unit that is on the engine block just under the thermostat housing. Then I bought and installed a Defender temp gauge in the landy and it worked! Using the Defender sender unit and gauge has allowed me to remove the temp gauge from the instrument panel and in there I placed an alt. meter from a series 2a. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjblank Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Hi Todd, it's been about 5 months since you finished the work... How about giving a rundown on the good and the bad... You mentioned exhaust... Have you worked out an alternative route? How is the fuel economy now? How are the engine vibrations (something everyone is concerned with) BTW, during my chassis swap, I reverted back to series engine mounts vs disco mounts on my 200 tdi. Not much difference (for those that care)... Are you thinking about putting the turbo back on, or are you satisfied with the normal aspiration? I know the "Di" conversions at Glencoyne have alot more low-rpm grunt over my "tdi" because they don't have a turbo restricting the flow. any other bits and bobs? BTW, did you ever get a replacement input shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 4, 2009 Author Share Posted December 4, 2009 Hi Todd, it's been about 5 months since you finished the work... How about giving a rundown on the good and the bad... You mentioned exhaust... Have you worked out an alternative route? How is the fuel economy now? How are the engine vibrations (something everyone is concerned with) BTW, during my chassis swap, I reverted back to series engine mounts vs disco mounts on my 200 tdi. Not much difference (for those that care)... Are you thinking about putting the turbo back on, or are you satisfied with the normal aspiration? I know the "Di" conversions at Glencoyne have alot more low-rpm grunt over my "tdi" because they don't have a turbo restricting the flow. any other bits and bobs? BTW, did you ever get a replacement input shaft? Hej Ray, time is certainly flying isn't it, the landy is running great. Simple turn key operation and she goes better than I would have thought that it would. There are many who will disagree with removing the turbo but they are the very same people who have never sat behind the wheel of my truck and drove it before making their comments. My landy has absolutely no problems with keeping up to the flow of traffic and from time to time I even pass. No, I have no plans at this time to put the turbo back on, but she's always avail if I ever want it. Fuel economy has been steady in the 28 mpg (city) to 31mpg (highway) range, which I'm very happy with. Now I have some range between fills. With both gas and diesel costing in the same ball park these days the fuel economy has made this conversion well worth every cent. Vibrations are nearly nothing worth writing about. I used the 300Tdi motor mounts and fabricated the frame mounts so that they mimicked those that are on the Disco in my driveway. If I used anything smaller for rubber isolators, I'm sure that it would vibrate but those 300Tdi rubbers are huge and absorb everything that my motor can throw at them. Like I said earlier there is basically nothing that I would change today with the motor but the exhaust is a pain in the butt. There is literally no where to route it so that it's not in the way of this thing or another. I seen one guy who notched out the cross member for the exhaust (here on LR4x4) but I don't really want to cut anymore from the galvanized frame. I can have a side exit exhaust but there again it's the front cross members that are creating the clearance issues.....more thought has to go into this before making any changes. Noise levels have increased and the fact that I have no insulation doesn't help either. Ear plugs are a must for long runs. Off roading the diesel motor has transformed this landy. The motor has a lot more grunt that the 2.25L gas ever had. The bearings were going in the series 2a transfer case that I was using the past few years so the original series 3 transfer case is back in it for the time being. The lower gear set is well and truly missed so the plan is that the spare series 3 transfer case that is sitting in the garage is to be rebuilt with the lower low gear cluster and install before the spring. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulnb57 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Ive now put a 300 in my Series 1 88 and this thread helped a lot! Its turboless using a S3 Diesel exhaust manifold, goes well but is under geared, gets very busy at 55mph plus - cant decide wether to go for a higher ratio traser box or RR/Early Disco diffs .............its noisy too! Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjblank Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Ive now put a 300 in my Series 1 88 and this thread helped a lot! Its turboless using a S3 Diesel exhaust manifold, goes well but is under geared, gets very busy at 55mph plus - cant decide wether to go for a higher ratio traser box or RR/Early Disco diffs .............its noisy too! Paul If you plan on using it off road and want an accurate speed meter, the high range transfer box is the answer, if you don;t care about either low range off road or an accurate speedo, then 3.54 diffs will sort it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingdong2 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 ill secon'd that have a 200tdi in a s11a swb with a hi ratio tranny box fitted and the speedo is bob on with the satnav. graham _____________________ 1962 2a swb 200 tdi. 1997 disco 1 300 tdi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 Ive now put a 300 in my Series 1 88 and this thread helped a lot! Its turboless using a S3 Diesel exhaust manifold, goes well but is under geared, gets very busy at 55mph plus - cant decide wether to go for a higher ratio traser box or RR/Early Disco diffs .............its noisy too! Paul Hej Paul, Great to read that you have it installed and it didn't take you as long as it took me. Jupp noisy when you get it up to speed but I have an overdrive that helps a lot plus gets mine up to 110 kmph which is the speed limit over here. I'm thinking of ways to insulate the bulkhead to lower the noise levels, maybe some kind of blanket on the back of the motor and covering the transmission? You'll have to post a few pictures of your exhaust manifold and exhaust system. I'm just curious of back pressure and heat build up. The 300tdi has a 2 1/4 exhaust system because of its need to breathe, are you still using the standard series exhaust? I echo the other guys, an overdrive or a high ratio transfer case is the route to go. Forget about the 3.54's, been there and have a pair collecting dust. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 My 200 in the 88 has OD and 3.54's..she flys..Im even thinking of cutting my own gears to up my high ratio 1 or 2% Be aware though, if you fit an Ashcroft hi-ratio transfer kit..you cant have an OD too..hence why I'm thinking of doing my own. Counter to Tuko..the 3.54's were the best thing I did for the Tdi...after the TDi being the best thing I did for the 88...I think of it like this ; the Tdi was designed for the discovery..which had an LT main...a 1:1.2 transfer box...and 3.54 diffs...so its nearly back to the way it was built....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulnb57 Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Todd - It took me 3 days to do..... Re the exhaust - youve probably seen the Glencoyne article about fitting a 2oo di to a Series but heres a link http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm I bought the exhaust manifold clamps from the Glencoyne ebay shop. The Series manifold has the same size and spacing of the ports as the head, the manifiold when fitted to a 200 appears to fit on a couple of the studs, on mine I has to grind a small amount off the edges of the manifold flanges to get it to fit in between the studs then clamp it on....... Re the exhaust diameter - Im not sure its an issue without the trurbo, Im guessing it shifts more exhaust with the turbo fitted...??? And yes I used the Series petrol exhaust sysyem and had to extend the downpipe about 6inches. I think the diesel downpipe may be longer............. Today Im going to modify the power steering pump and take the pump rollers out and change the diffs. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 Hej Paul, just a quick note (shoveling snow today), I hope you address the kink in the top radiator hose. interesting what you did about the exhaust......will look into it, thanks. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulnb57 Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 The radiator top hose is an issue that needs addressing, if you need any more info on the exhaust, ask away! Changed the diffs today - major improvement - took the rollers out of the power steering pump and wired the glow plugs to a dash switch. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulnb57 Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Todd What did you do with the 2 pipes that feed and return to the oil cooler, I used an S3 radiator and looped a rubber pipe from the feed and return on the oil filter housing, but Im not too happy with it long term........just wondering how you got round it?? Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Todd What did you do with the 2 pipes that feed and return to the oil cooler, I used an S3 radiator and looped a rubber pipe from the feed and return on the oil filter housing, but Im not too happy with it long term........just wondering how you got round it?? Cheers Paul I blocked off the connections at the oil cooler with standard 2.5 diesel or 2ooTdi plugs. I'll dig up the plug numbers for you or serach here because it was info the Ralph posted one time earlier. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 I blocked off the connections at the oil cooler with standard 2.5 diesel or 2ooTdi plugs. I'll dig up the plug numbers for you or serach here because it was info the Ralph posted one time earlier. Todd. I hope you removed the thermostat from the filter head cos if it gets hot enough to require the oil cooler working the thermo will divert the oil to a non existant cooler so starving the engine of oil. Result, knock, knock, clatter, clatter, bang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Yes Phil I removed the thermostat before using the plugs. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulnb57 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Id appreciate the part numbers Todd please, cant for the life of me find em doing a search............ Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 19, 2009 Author Share Posted December 19, 2009 Sorry for the delay Paul, I have a virus in my computer and she's dead in the water. I only have access to the internet with my mobile phone or when my son lets me near his computer. Anyways here is the image that has the relavent parts and part numbers that you will need to block off the ports on the oil filter housing. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulnb57 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Thanks Todd! Try AVG Free antivirus - works for me............ http://free.avg.com/gb-en/homepage Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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