Rear door lock

[Turbocharger]

It's hard to say when my rear door lock started to stop working, I've only had the car 8 years. When I bought it, the key just went round and round. It would still lock and unlock from the inside though, so didn't warrant a new lock. This has caused much entertainment carrying big square furniture with the door locked though (think about it...).

After getting fed up / stuck with reaching past the seats to unlock it I even rigged up an ingenious cable to lift up the button from the cab to save me twisting round.

HOWEVER, this evening I noticed that the door opens whichever position the inside button is in, so I can't lock the car up now unless I reverse up to something. Is there a clever dodge to get another 24 years out of this catch assembly, or have I finally extracted all the value from this lock and it's time to buy a new one?

[bowfinger]

I have never been able to lock the rear door on my 110 CSW with the key and have always had to use the button inside. I even bought a new barrel for it and nothing changed so I'll be very interested to find out if anyone knows what voodoo needs to be used to get it to work.

[Marco]

Replacing just only the lock barrel on a Defender rear door lock is an easy and inexpensive job....

I've had troubles locking my rear door due to the fact the catch is not engaging properly. That can be adjusted by moving the catch a little bit to the side of the door.

Cheers

Marco

[mmgemini]

The rear door lock is not repairable???

So do a search on here, sorry I don't know how to . I put a post up on how I took mine apart and put it back.

It still locks in a fashion.

Better than the price of a new lock.

mike

[Mo Murphy]

It won't break the bank Turbo, stop faffing around and just buy a new one. I did and since then it's locked every time ! Bizarre !

Mo

[Turbocharger]

Well, you all failed to diagnose the problem - my natty cable system to operate the lock was stopping the button from reaching full travel. Of course, flushed with success I noticed that I have no brake lights and had a look at sorting that out.

I nailed that down to a fuse that needs wiggling, as with LH dip beam, RH main beam, the heater blower etc etc. I decided it was finally time to get on with my blade-fuse box conversion, so I unscrewed the fuse box. As it became apparent that I wouldn't finish before work time (I'm on nights this week) I swapped my tools over to the hairdresser car which was in the garage behind. At this point I realised that the LR a) wouldn't start and B) was blocking the MG in.

I rolled the LR downhill slightly (in front of next-door's house) and squeezed the MG out, so I could short the starter with a spanner and put it in the garage, although I have to let the tyres down first so it'll fit.

Shorting with a spanner meant the starter spun but wouldn't engage, a further symptom of the slight delay sometimes before the solenoid would engage. Since I can't push a Ninety uphill with two flat tyres I pulled the battery lead off, removed the starter and greased the solenoid once it was on the bench. It started cleanly once the starter was refitted but still doesn't have any brake lights and the fuse box is hanging out, wires everywhere, so I put it in the garage and went to work.

Ironically, now it's in the garage it doesn't need the back door to be locked Still, it's not cost anything to fix yet...