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Rear Range Rover Axle


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Got a chance of a rear range rover axle to put into my 90 .................. fed up with drum brakes

This axle has shock brackets both sides of axle so it should'nt be a problem to fit

I'm sure I read somewhere that RR axles are not as strong as disco or 90 disc braked axles .................or have I got it wrong

Is it as strong? :blink:

So opinions please ;)

Cheers

Steve

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Depends, if you have 10 spline halfshafts and a single pin (4-gear) diff centre then the rangie axle will be just as strong. And if you have 24 spline shafts and a HD diff centre you can fit your shafts and centre to the rangie housing.

Thanks for the quick reply not sure what I've got in my 90 other than it was a TD 87 the axle is 88 V 8 I believe

Cheers

Steve

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Thanks for the quick reply not sure what I've got in my 90 other than it was a TD 87 the axle is 88 V 8 I believe

Cheers

Steve

If you have a V8 rear axle then chances are it is a 24 spline. But it only takes 5 minutes and 6 bolts to check (remove a halfshaft), and if it is you can swap the diff centre and half shafts into the RR casing.

You will also need a proportioning valve for the brakes - I think??

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If you do put it the axle on use the original shafts that came with the RR axle - because the 90 shafts and slightly shorter - take them both out and measure them. Not sure how or why but they different lengths ( well they were on my one anyway).

Your shock mounts should/need to be facing forwards (towards front of motor - both of them) for an easy swap out.

Does it come with Calipers?? if so are they single or double line.. ?? single line then just use the same setup (i have on my one and it works well)

Edited by pigster
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defintely consider getting the brake propotioning valve, about £40 to £60. My 90 has a rear RR axle and the rear locks like a beast, drives me mad. However you know what it's like, you don't like faffing with the brakes if they are working, so I haven't got around to getting the valve and fitting.

As a side note the valve may be useful for events, you could alter the bias to be more rear orientated making it safer to go down slopes? I'm thinking if the rear locks up it might not slip around as much as if the front did, however considering how far I can get the back out I am not convinced I'm talking anything but b****ks about that :)

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defintely consider getting the brake propotioning valve, about £40 to £60. My 90 has a rear RR axle and the rear locks like a beast, drives me mad. However you know what it's like, you don't like faffing with the brakes if they are working, so I haven't got around to getting the valve and fitting.

As a side note the valve may be useful for events, you could alter the bias to be more rear orientated making it safer to go down slopes? I'm thinking if the rear locks up it might not slip around as much as if the front did, however considering how far I can get the back out I am not convinced I'm talking anything but b****ks about that :)

I've got a RR axle on the back of mine with no proportioning valve and it's fine - rarely locks up a wheel, although I'm wondering whether my servo is going as they aren't as sharp as I guess they could be. I'd say the balance is fine though.

On downhill slopes you don't want the wheels locking in pretty much any situation! If the rears lock they're more likely to overtake the fronts :o

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Ditto to darth

I converted mine to Rear Disc axle and with nearly 300 BHP and a heavy left foot it stops fine.

Front is vented drilled and slotted discs, rear just single drilled, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

doubt this makes much difference ...so try it 1st before fitting a bias valave

Nige

Edited by Hybrid_From_Hell
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Hmmm, I have to discount Nigels answer since he has so much weight that his probably wouldn't lock up anyway :)

Maybe I should consider a fluid change, it may that the front isn't getting pressure because of contamination, I can't seen any other reason off hand.

At the moment I have new pads all round, and I think the discs are all OK (ish rear ones have some scoring after HBRO event in Aldershot). I did replace a pipe this week and thought the front braking improved.

I've kind of put it down to the fact that with soft springs as I brake the front dips and back lifts and the wheels lock on the rear. (90 truck cab)

could the master cylinder cause it, the dual system seems to have 2 springs, I was wondering if they were a proportioning device, since there doesn't seem to be another one.

It may also be that there is no G valve on mine (I don't know if there is, I haven't looked) which would make a big difference.

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Hi all

Just to add my 2'ps we did the RR axle swap a couple of years ago on a J reg 90 and were told we would have trouble with the brakes, well we hooked it all up and it was fine. Add to it the X eng disc handbrake and you should have mudproof brakes :D

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Hi all

Just to add my 2'ps we did the RR axle swap a couple of years ago on a J reg 90 and were told we would have trouble with the brakes, well we hooked it all up and it was fine. Add to it the X eng disc handbrake and you should have mudproof brakes :D

I have that exact setup, and it is very good.

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Hi all

Thanks for all the replies again

Just to clarify I have a 90 that was a 87 Turbo and I believe to have the original axle ............. sorry mistake above ment 88 RR v8 its a 89 but the same I expect.

So it's a straight swap ?..... I can unbolt the original axle and simply bolt the new on in its place...........without swapping the diffs and halfshafts ............. sorry for the silly questions but I like to plan as much as I can and I don't want to make a silly mistake ................and I'm a carp mechanic but like to tinker

Cheers

Steve

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Yep the axles can be swapped complete with diffs shafts etc.

I'm new to this forum, I'm doing exactly the same conversion on my V8 90 and am very curious as to what an "X eng Handbrake" is ? The thread talks about buying one, can you give me more info, maker, cost how it works etc etc.

Tidy forum as well, you lot get to the point unlike some others :)

Stu_H

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have completed the swap .............. as noted above pice of cake even for me by myself! and thats saying something

Bloody heavy to move about though

LR do like to complicate things IMHO the RR fexible brake pipe turned out to be incorrect, however the 90 one screwed into the RR axle "T" connector so was ok for the existing brake pipe connector strange that

It would appear that the spring retaining bolts on RR axle were imperial and 90 M10 metric

Only little things really I suppose

I have only taken it down the road for a road test so far brakes work fine did notice the back locking up, but I have a truck cab with nothing in the back and soon to be replaced deestone tyres so it was to be expected I suppose.

Surprised how easy to do about a day all told and that was with with trublesome locked difficuly bolts etc that I should of cut off as replaced them

Cheers

Steve

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Guest diesel_jim
Bloody heavy to move about though

tip: put some small wheels on (like 205's) so you can roll the axle around!

LR do like to complicate things IMHO the RR fexible brake pipe turned out to be incorrect, however the 90 one screwed into the RR axle "T" connector so was ok for the existing brake pipe connector strange that

It would appear that the spring retaining bolts on RR axle were imperial and 90 M10 metric

Same on 90/110 axles, the early ones were imperial and the later ones M10

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Since fitting a rangie axle to the back of my 90, the brake balance is a little bit strong at the back at times and the back will lock up when you really stomp on the brakes.

I know there is a valve that can be installed to adjust break balance but i dont want to do this.

If i install ebc green stuff pads on the front will this help the problem, or will it make it worse or is it a bad idea to had different pads front and rear. I also hear the green stuff pads are not as good as standard apart from when they are heated up? Anyone comment on this?

Sorry for thread high jack

Cheer

Jon

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