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SI 2.0l hardened valve seats?


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  • 1 month later...

hi all, much as the club sell hardened valves, i have it on good authority( from some well know land rover engine rebuilders, and my local machine shop with years of experience) that the valves are fine, it is the seats that degrade, that's why they call it valve seat recession, and why your question was hardened valve SEATS. So if you want a long term solution, especially if your engine is in bits, get hardened seats fitted, cost me 50 quid (for a 2l 4 cylinder) but i was having a re-bore and crank ground as well, so the bill went up by 50 above initial quote. Or just buy additive, i buy direct from castrol ( for other non converted vehicles) i looked at the fbhvc website and tried to work out the price per litre of fuel treated and came up with castrols valvemaster (or valvemaster plus if you want an octane boost) in boxes of 8 from memory, will add the website if i can remember the link, hope this late night waffle helps

p.s. the land rover engine is still in bits, as having already spent hundreds, the price of a new cam shaft and rockers nearly made me wish i'd used the engine as aboat anchor and put in something that has power and is efficient, like a perkins prima, but that's another matter.

happy landrovin


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Well I had a 1956 86" S1 and was buying parts from various sources. I spoke to a well-known S1 parts supplier, who gave me the information I have posted on here. He even sold me the valves. I stripped a S1 head and the valves had sunk into the seats and had a raised lip on them. The seats appeared to fine still.

My understanding is that these engines were designed to run on very poor quality fuels, so the valves failing is due to excessive heat produced by modern day petrol.

well know land rover engine rebuilders, and my local machine shop with years of experience

Any reason why you aren't saying who these companies are?

Les. :)

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No specialist knowledge myself, but I had this conversation with Turners (a while ago) when I orginally bought my 109 6cyl.

The (6cyl) head is iron so as such will not suffer nearly as much (if at all), whereas alloy heads have harder seats pressed in, and these are the things that are not up to spec for unleaded and hence break up.

In theory (but I'm no engine builder) you could get the head machined and new seats put in if you really felt it necessary. What Turners said to me is drive it, and IF the seats DO wear then get it machined - no point spending out if it never wears.

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I also had heard that the motor was fine on unleaded due to being designed on carp low octane fuel in ungybungyland. Consequently I have been running my 1953 2 ltr on straight unleaded for the last 4 years with no problem. I guess part of this is the lower mileages Series Ones tend to do and they don't tend to get very hot doing long journeys. When engine rebuild time is here I will consult Mr Cox what the latest thinking is.

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  • 3 months later...

So, are additives worth it? I have a '55 2ltr that does hardly any mileage and I was putting unleaded in. If they are useful, can anyone recommend the Tetrosyl product as they're just up the road from me!


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No idea - most of them sound like b*ll*cks in a can when you read the label. Redex stuff tends to do what it says on the tin. Personally I wouldn't bother though, like my other post I'd drive it and IF a problem manifests itself, send the head to Turners to get it upgraded.

If you do no mileage and aren't thrashing it I imagine it will last quite a while - they were designed to run on the worst fuel in the world in the middle of a desert so a gentle potter round in the sunshine on unleaded shouldn't hurt.

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I'd drive it and IF a problem manifests itself, send the head to Turners to get it upgraded.

Hear, hear. I don't like spending money, even when I need to! I have run my 88" S1 on unleaded/LPG for about 8000 motorway miles so far since October and everything is still fine...

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