Jump to content

Cam belt change


Recommended Posts

Hello,

A Question for Les, really!

I'm trying to gain as much info as I can before tackling the job of a cambelt change!

reading the 1996 manual it states that you should loosen the bolts for the injection pump gear, to get the belt to sit properly? But the main question I have is it(the manual) says torque the new belt up to 15nm and you are saying 27.77nm I want to follow your tech archive but want to make sure I'm not missing anything so have read the manual and am now confused!

Also is it really necessary to change the crankshaft gear (if there is no sign of wear on the old cam belt)and if so do I need a puller to get it off!

Sorry I'm sure you have been over this before but I can't seem to find it? :huh:

Cheers Ted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Torque figures you need -

Timing belt tensioner bolt.................................45NM

Idler wheel nut...............................................45Nm

Crankshaft pulley bolt.....................................80Nm and then 90-deg

Timing belt tension.........................................15Nm

Camshaft centre bolt.......................................80Nm

Timing cover bolts...........................................25Nm

Injector pump centre hub.................................25Nm

The text actually says 21.77Nm, which is still wrong. I'll change it.

Les.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Torque figures you need -

Timing belt tensioner bolt.................................45NM

Idler wheel nut...............................................45Nm

Crankshaft pulley bolt.....................................80Nm and then 90-deg

Timing belt tension.........................................15Nm

Camshaft centre bolt.......................................80Nm

Timing cover bolts...........................................25Nm

Injector pump centre hub.................................25Nm

The text actually says 21.77Nm, which is still wrong. I'll change it.

Les.

Thanks :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...actually, the latest (last???) tech bulletin I have,as of march 25th, 1998, says torque the belt to 11Nm.

You know when I said that I tend to look in to the detail of things too much? Well this has just put alot of doubt into my mind about doing the job myself!!!!

When I searched the service history when buying the 110 I was told that the cambelt kit had been done, by the main dealer!but I can't find the blob of yellow paint on the casing! indicating that the repair kit has been installed?

Thanks for the info(confusion) Silvio.

Anybody else got any pearls of wisdom!!!!

Cheers Ted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your old belt has significantly narrowed (it should be 25mm wide), then it is still out of alignment. The casing will be loaded with rubber 'hair' and there will be a worn track on the timing outer cover - especially where it wraps around the injector pump pulley. Some small wear on the cover is quite common, but you will see the difference. If your belt is still out of alignment, then it will be about 1/2 to 1/3 of it's original width.

I doubt very much that there are any 300TDi engines still running that have not had this problem sorted out.

Les.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is Land Rover, baby, we might say!!!!

When I bought my defender Td5 in 2001, I ordered the workshop manual (printed version) from UK, as it is not sold here in Italy: you won't believe it, but that manual seriously explains you how to remove the 8 spark plugs ... in a 5-cyl diesel engine!!!!

Back to seriousness, the tech bull I posted comes from the 2002 rave edition, so I believe it is pretty definitive; for peace of mind, you could choose an intermediate value between the 11Nm of the buletin and the 15 Nm quoted in the engine manual. Strike a balance at 13 and there you are!

As to dealership, I wouldn't rely too much on the presence/absence of the yellow dot: I tend to consider improbable that they can bother to buy a can of yellow paint, brushes, thinner and have a boy wandering about in the workshop painting squares, dots, arrows, checks and the like...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your old belt has significantly narrowed (it should be 25mm wide), then it is still out of alignment. The casing will be loaded with rubber 'hair' and there will be a worn track on the timing outer cover - especially where it wraps around the injector pump pulley. Some small wear on the cover is quite common, but you will see the difference. If your belt is still out of alignment, then it will be about 1/2 to 1/3 of it's original width.

I doubt very much that there are any 300TDi engines still running that have not had this problem sorted out.

Les.

Yeh thats my thinking as well, as I said the detail twists my head, I was just worried that if I take it all apart and the servise kit has not been done I would be left standing with all the bit around me not knowing what to do! :blink:

Just one more thing! excuse me if I'm being thick(again) but when you say tighten the crank shaft pully bolt to 80nm and the 90 degrees? what do you mean by 90 degrees?

I'm sorry to be a pain but I really want to do the job! But want to be sure I don't knacker my beautiful purring!! Defender :unsure:

Cheers Ted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So if a TD5 has eight spark plugs, which cylinders have two?

Maybe this will make up for the missing glow plug in no 5?

And now you know why your tool kit has a spark plug spanner in it :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TD5's have spark plugs in case you accidentally put petrol in it.

Petrol engines have an 'Auto Stop' device that cuts in if it's likely to be damp at any time soon/from late September to June.

Gawd these jokes are getting a bit cheesy :lol:

Les. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Torque figures you need -

The text actually says 21.77Nm, which is still wrong. I'll change it.

Les.

Hmmm, I've changed my 300TDI cambelt 8 weeks ago and used the figures mentioned in the tech archive thread. So I guess I have tensioned it at 21,77NM then... I've travelled about 2500 miles with it since.... Should I now replace it again? I don't have time for the next few months...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No wonder it is hard to undo!! ???? (Why not tighten to 90nm?)

Thanks Ted

If it is easy to undo, it wasn't done up properly. According to my manual, the torque loading for a 200tdi is 265Nm. I reckon LR went for the 90 deg because firstly most torque wrenches only go up to 200Nm and degree torquing is more accurate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy