Turbocharger Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 I've endured random electrical faults from my fuse box for some time - it's a 1984 Ninety so uses round glass fuses in 'clip' holders, and they've gone rusty over the last twenty years. Quite often I have to wiggle a fuse to get a good contact and bring both headlights on - which is fine when starting off, but going from full beam to one dip headlight and it isn't attractive to dive into the footwell to resolve the problem when there's an oncoming car... I've also found problems buying the correct fuses, since everything Halfords etc sell seem to be slightly too long to fit. Following thoughts on here previously I bought some blade fuse holders from VWP, their FBB8U @ £3.95 ea, and here's my step by step guide on fitting them. The old wiring was a mess, with an assortment of fuses in the wrong ratings, some mains-plug fuses and a couple (ahem) of blown ones wrapped in tinfoil. I pulled the big bracket out and trimmed a little of the strengthening rib across the bottom to clear the new fuse boxes... Holes are added to take the mounting screws (although one was too close to the edge and became a slot - no matter), so next is the heart-stopping moment of snipping into the main loom. It's this stage that has put me off the whole process for two years or more. I transferred the wires across one by one to the new fuse boxes, methodically and slowly. I didn't label any of the wires, just kept them in order and moved them one at a time. And here's the installed creation. In Blue Peter style I'd labelled each slot while the backing plate was on the bench, and this method gives me space for a few spare fuses at the bottom. If I'd thought ahead I'd transfer the wires for the other four fuses onto the spaces at the bottom of the new board, but I've got no idea what they do (although evidently only the top two do anything noticeable because they're the ones that had fuses in them - any ideas?). It was also a good opportunity to tidy up the wiring for the stereo which has hung loose in the footwell for the last eight years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 one of the small 2 fuse is for the rear screen heater & rear wash/wipe. no idea why you have 2 of these small fuese boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Nice neat job I have the glass fuses on mine and although the wiring it in good condition, the fuses can cause loads of probs May follow your lead one day..........few other things "1st" Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 If you're doing any form of competition, or just like an easy life, it's worth considering the "Automatic indicating glow fuses" also from VWP (or RS). When they blow, they light up, which obviously can save you a load of time pulling each fuse and checking it looking for a problem. Also especially useful for things where you might not realise the fuse has blown until too late - such as the 'leccy fans - but obviously not so good if you put the black cover back over the top! Saved my engine once, when the fans stalled hitting water at speed and blew the fuse - paid for the themselves in one hit. (The warning lamp has a limited life, so dont expect it to remind you that you blew that fuse two weeks ago, but they are good for a couple of hours.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 If you're really bored the alternative to TSD's suggestion is to buy a load of 12v 3mm LED's from RS and solder them directly to the fuse holder. You do need to check polarity though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 One thought, Range Rovers have 2 small fuse boxes under each seat, think they hold 8 or 10 fuses, and have a plastic cover on them to keep the dirt out as well -pretty sure they could be used just as you have done there. Very nice neat job though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 Funky light-up fuses sound like fun - do they directly replace the blades? Fridge - how would I do the same with and LED? In series it'd only light if the fuse was working, and in parallel it'd suddenly see the full (over)current and go pop. I did think about wiring an ignition feed and an LED to one of the spare slots to make a built-in fuse tester, but I didn't quite get round to it. One of those 'maybe next time' ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Glow fuses: The LED's are across the fuse in parallel, you can either use a normal LED with series resistor or a 12v one with built-in resistor, either way the resistor limits the current that can flow to a few mA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 If you're really bored the alternative to TSD's suggestion is to buy a load of 12v 3mm LED's from RS and solder them directly to the fuse holder. You do need to check polarity though. Indicating fuses are 50p + vat at RS. Link You'd need to be upgrading a whole fleet of RR 38a before that even sounded like it was worth the effort Edit : forgot to say, having used both, the RS ones are much higher quality than the VWP ones as well as cheaper - not that it matters much in something thats designed to melt! @Turbocharger - the 'glow' blade fuses just directly replace the ordinary ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Even better - these little resetable circuit breaker to directly replace the fuses. A bit pricey so perhaps limited to a few circuits only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Even better - these little resetable circuit breaker to directly replace the fuses. A bit pricey so perhaps limited to a few circuits only Now they are good , Just as long as you keep em dry . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 I looked at the price of resettable circuit breakers - for that price, if I had a circuit which needed constant resetting I'd look at the cause of the problem rather then spending out on a vehicle set of breakers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangebadger Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Hi Turbocharger - can you repost your images - the links to them seem to be broken!! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Lucky I spotted this - and that I never delete any photos! Here's the same text again: The old wiring was a mess, with an assortment of fuses in the wrong ratings, some mains-plug fuses and a couple (ahem) of blown ones wrapped in tinfoil. I pulled the big bracket out and trimmed a little of the strengthening rib across the bottom to clear the new fuse boxes... Holes are added to take the mounting screws (although one was too close to the edge and became a slot - no matter), so next is the heart-stopping moment of snipping into the main loom. It's this stage that has put me off the whole process for two years or more. I transferred the wires across one by one to the new fuse boxes, methodically and slowly. I didn't label any of the wires, just kept them in order and moved them one at a time. And here's the installed creation. In Blue Peter style I'd labelled each slot while the backing plate was on the bench, and this method gives me space for a few spare fuses at the bottom. If I'd thought ahead I'd transfer the wires for the other four fuses onto the spaces at the bottom of the new board, but I've got no idea what they do (although evidently only the top two do anything noticeable because they're the ones that had fuses in them - any ideas?). It was also a good opportunity to tidy up the wiring for the stereo which has hung loose in the footwell for the last eight years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmattz Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Did you ever find out what those extra fuses on the top left and bottom right hand side of your new installation did? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudd86 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 ideal post for what im looking at doing Turbocharger where did you buy the holders/fuses/connectors from? also, did you solder or crimp? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 I followed what John did... (He even sent me the fuse holders.... Such a nice chap..) The holders are available from Vehicle Wiring Products. I use insulated crimped blade (female) connectors and did the wires one by one to ensure they went back in the same place as the original. The VWP fuse box has blade connectors on the back. Never had a fuse problem thereafter.. (Apart from shorting things and blowing them !!) Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 As Neil says, VWP, it's fit and forget. Though my black cover panel didn't fit afterwards, but it was just ballast anyway. Make sure you label each circuit before you reinstall it though, it's awkward to write down there afterwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninety84 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Guys, there are crimp on fuseholders available that you can use in those fuseboxes. You remove the spade-connector fuseholders, crimp the wire onto the crimp-on fuseholder and click it in. Saves space, one extra connection less and looks more tidy. It's these connectors: http://www.rdae.nl/kabelschoenen-div/ongeisoleerde-kont/3-7900r--20-stuks There is also a connector for thicker wires up to 6mm2. I am planning a project like mentioned above in my 1984 ninety, together with upgrading the headlight wiring loom (relays) etc. Want to be well-prepared before I dive into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Did you ever find out what those extra fuses on the top left and bottom right hand side of your new installation did? see my reply above for the lower left 2 fuses, don't know what the upper right are for, maybe something particular to Turbo's vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yalan Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 I changed mine for blades too... Took the fusebox out of the 200tdi disco I was breaking..... Gives 27 fuseways so plenty of room for futre expansion! Wierdly it seems incredibly rare in discoveries.... In fact it looks like they raided the mini parts bin for this one...AFU3103 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninety84 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 As Neil says, VWP, it's fit and forget. Though my black cover panel didn't fit afterwards, but it was just ballast anyway. Make sure you label each circuit before you reinstall it though, it's awkward to write down there afterwards If you put one or more filling rings under the fusebox (mounting bolts out, rings between mounting plate and fusebox and bolts in again) so that the blade fusebox sits a bit lower, you might actually be able to put the black cover on again... You win space behind the fusebox if you use the crimp on contacts in stead of blade contacts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninety84 Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 That mini fusebox looks very tidy! Nice job. Quite an expensive part however: on ebay at the moment for 28 quid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Turbo, I am seeing that the VWP box actually has an o-ring, which is great, but the fact that it has external connections, makes that a bit pointless I think, or is it? I am planning to convert to blades at some stage, mainly to make sure things work when the water is at centrelevel of the steeringwheel. So far, that has not stopped the electrics working, but I am worried about that. Has anyone devised a way to completely waterproof them? Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kierran.M.110 Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 yalan, i wish my wiring was as neat as that, i prob should do this conversion while i am sorting out my electrics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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