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2" Shorter Shock Turrets


tuko

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I want to get as much front axle travel as possible, by the cheapest method possible, therefore, I've began making my own set. Just like the ones that you will find in LRM, this month.

But, while lying under the landy today, I was wondering, will lowering the front shock mount really make that much of a difference? :huh:

The bump stops only have so much room for front axle travel in the first place, so, wouldn't they stop the axle, at a certain point?

Would I have to install longer springs at the same time, in order to gain any real benefits? Or do I have to install longer shocks to ?

I know somebody is going to suggest 3 link, and even with that, I don't fully understand how that works. Way toooooo many questions! Does anybody know of a site, that gives a detailed description on how 3 link suspension (front axle) works ? AND I guess, is it possible to make yourself?

Ok, enough questions for this Friday night, gettin a beer B)

Todd.

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The bump stops only halt the upward travel, good ol' boy, lower shock towers allow the axle to drop more. And suprisingly, as I found on the rear of my 110, lower upper mountings still didn't permit the dampers to compress fully any sooner than the bump stops. So, apart from more drop, there is also more travel to be gained.

I've had one of those black cans from Germany, might consider one more! ;):D

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I've been spending a HUGE amount of time on the last thoughts before I mod the susp.

I am going to fit LONGER Turrets front , and RAISE the mounts rear , and fit longer shocks too.

Logic ?

Well what most do is fir bent arms, disc cones and extended bump stops. this is so the shock doesn't bottom out on the rebound

... my idea is to move the shock mount up,

fit longer shocks........ disc cones ..............and let the axle drop hugely,

but then also go right up to the bump stop,

and as the shock mount is higer it won't bottom out....

few other tweaks too planned, also rar wheel boxes cut to allow movemnt into the LR rather than just lift it, been months at this,.........will be starting V soon !

well thats the plan, 15 inch shocks I think will do it, stay tunned its next on the lis of to do's !

Nige

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NIge,

I'm with you on this. Turrets and shock mountings need to be matched to your shocks. I certainly won't be going shorter/lower.

And my rear tub is going to get cut rather than fit extended bump stops.

If you fancy a small production run like the kittygripper I'd be interrested in moderately higher rear shock mounts.

If you're fitting 15" shocks to the front I guess this is with 3-link cos the stock radius arms won't let you use anything like that sort of travel?

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Hi Guys,

The only way to go is to raise the shock mounts front and rear and fit longer shocks.

I was talking with Paul from Tomcat Motorsport at Billing and they had on display a 90 with just such a setup.

They had raised mounts front and rear, much longer springs (therefore you don't need dislocation cones) and were using 14"

Explorer Pro-Comp shocks.

So, don't reinvent the wheel as their kit is purely bolt-on, and it is sooooo much cheaper than Scrap Iron/Equipe.

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Yes it was.....

And I believe that longer spring compressed will never be compressed enough to reach the bumpstops..... <_<

So the only thing is or insane lifted spring mounts with long springs. Or cones of some sort.

I've made the higher topmounts myself , studied those tomacat ones very well ;)

Cheers Bowy

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The longer/softer the sping the less roll resistance the truck will have. Fine for playing on the ramp but can get pretty buttock clenching on a side slope.

I notice some of the tube buggies now have small winches fitted so they can compress the suspension to give better control. Air suspension like SimonR's is probably the best way forward for full flexibility and control.

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