bishbosh Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 I have been hunting the web trying to find an Ali or s/s fairlead that is circular. I am sure I saw one on a chandlery website but for the life of me I cannot find it again. I want it for my rear winch as the fairlead will be at the back of the vehicle (obviously!) and the winch will be at the bulkhead. I am hopeful that there will be sufficient distance between the two to allow the rope to spool on neatly without too much bunching. A narrow, or better yet "eye" style fairlead will help this. Anyone seen anything or is it time to source some billet and a friendly lathe operator....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Why don't you buy four stainless elbows and weld them together? Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 Tis a good idea Si....might investigate that one as a backup.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 JST has one on his 90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 I thought James' was a standard fairlead? I have had another idea, developed from Simon's suggestion - take a solid round bar and wrap it around another bar (as a former) to form the eye. The two tails can then be welded to a mounting plate. Opinions...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Here Bish, bolt one of these through the rear floor and into the top of your new X-member. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 I had considerd an eye bolt but discounted it as the radius would be too tight on the rope. Currently looking at some 40mm s/s bar.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnover4x4 Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 I saw a fairlead on a Suzuki jimny a few weeks ago which he sourced a single link from a seamless chain supplier for ship anchors. Approx 4" dia. Dont know any contact details tho Ade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Not a brill picture, but something like the one on the centre winch on this truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-T Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 I can get you one! What size do you want? Andy-T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 First Four manufacture a stainless one, as they bolt together in 4 pieces maybe if you asked them nicely they could do a short one for you...? http://www.firstfouroffroad.co.uk/winch_line.htm Would just a huge stainless eyebolt do you? http://www.s3i.co.uk/productPage.php?produ...ame=EyeBolt.php 24mm thick loop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Bish have a look on this ebay sellers site - specialises in marine stainless fittings for boats etc. Lots to browse and search on: http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/stainlessdirect/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 I can get you one!What size do you want? Andy-T. What parameters do you need Andy? I am looking along the lines of 25mm ish central hole with a fairlead about 30mm thick to get a large radius for the rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tris Cocks Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Bish There is one for sale on the 'For sale' section of the site - Round Fairlead Tris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 Thanks Tris. Typically I have today ordered the elbows to make my own! I think I'd prefer stainless over ali anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Getting to your other concern, the recommendation for smooth winch drums is to keep the fleet angle below 1.5 degrees either side of the centreline of the drum. I think I am right in saying that the rule of thumb for this is the distance from the drum to the fairlead needs to be about 20 x the drum width. Don't think you are going to get this. We use some small winches with less distance between the fairlead and the drum, but they use fleet angle compensators. For a brief description have a look here. http://www.lebus-intl.com/fac.html This needs to be used with a grooved drum though, and always has tension on the wire, so not sure it could be made to work with a vehicle winch. Perhaps another way would be to use a hydraulic cylinder and fairlead close to the drum to guide the wire on to it. Don't know how you would automate it though. The larger winches we have use geared spoolers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 Hmm, that's interesting. I reckon my half angle would be about 5 degrees so not ideal. Still better than a standard fairlead though and the position of the winch will enable me to monitor it. Your 20 x distance is correct for a 1.5 degree fleet angle - 4.3m on a 9" drum!! BTW linky no worky... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 You won't even get that on a 130 If you can monitor the winch, then perhaps a manually controlled hydraulic spooler would be feasable to stop the bunching, or am I looking for an answer to a problem that doesn't exist? Link works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Hi Bish Are you planning to put a circular hawslead in the rear door or on a bracket mounted to floor of rear tub? If door, would it make sense to have hawselead big enough to pass thimble and hook through so that you can keep all of rope inside when no in use and the door would be free to open? Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 Steve, I am going to copy James' idea and mount it to the cross member. I intend to take the rear door off when competing as is the current fashion Hopefully I'll end up with something like this: I know that means bolting it on each event but that's no problem. It also means no rear winch for drive round days etc but I can live with that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Bish- could you not make your idea easily dismountable- similar to a dixon bate slider but in reverse... Bolting the slider to the crossmember with the flanges facing outwards- then having something similar to the usual 'ladder' incorporated into the fairlead mounting plate you have designed- ie make the two flanges deeper and drill a hole though both for the pin to go through and then do away with the four bolt holes you have shown- you would then be able to attach or detach it simply by removing one pin rather than four long bolts right through the crossmember...This would then only leave two flanges sticking out of the crossmember for the rest of the time. Taking the door off for each competition is enough of a pain in the bum without then having to bolt that jobbie on as well... Also if you wanted more stability you could use 2 of the pins through the flanges. I really like the idea of using a fairlead with a much greater radius than standard- far better for the winch line on heavy side pulls IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 Can't see how I can make that work with a recovery point using the same bolt holes though....? Four bolts isn't exactly a huge chore is it - it'll be child's play compared with taking the door off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Can't see how I can make that work with a recovery point using the same bolt holes though....? Four bolts isn't exactly a huge chore is it - it'll be child's play compared with taking the door off! For a recovery point just weld a steel loop to the flat part of the plate that you are making... If you need one when the fairlead is not attached then you could make up a second plate with just a loop on it that would attach to the same mounting on the crossmember! I would drill right through the plate so that the legs of the loop go right through the plate and then weld it up back and front. Four bolts is obviously not that drastic but will be a pain when they are all covered in mud and carp and I assume you will also have to put a spreader plate etc on the back of the crossmember if the same bolts are holding a recovery point... The bolts will also be fairly sizable and will need to be done up pretty tight as well... IMHO sounds like a bit of a faff to do before and after every event... (Just my 2p) Taking the door off, as I do for every event, is actually fairly easy- just undo the three hinge pins and pull them out leaving half the hinge on the door and half on the truck. Leaves no alignment issues when you put it back on! Easier with two people-we can get it on/off in a couple of minutes- tis more of a pain taking the spare wheel off first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.