Chris Range Rover Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Hi guys, I am new here, and heres my first post! Just bought a 3.5 V8 off roader with solex carbs. (think the engine is probabily 1983 ish?). When test driving it before buying it ran ok, but when caning it and changing up a gear it would then lack power a bit. Anyway, later on we tried to start it again (it was still hot) but it just wouldnt go. Eventually an hour later it did and it seemed ok again. I thought probabily just needs the carbs cleaning and balancing, as it never had been done before. Had this done yesterday, by a local mechanic and I have just been out in it, and after about 10 mins it suddenly lost power and died. Tried restarting and after turning over for a while it fired up for about 5 secs and then died again. try again, and as soon as you touch the throttle it dies. pull the choke out and it runs ok for about 10secs and then dies. I think it must be a fuel problem (there is some in the tank!) could it possibly be being starved of air and flooding itself? I really would appreciate your help as I have just had the carbs cleaned but still have problems! Thanks in advance for your help. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 Don't know whether Range Rovers are affected (or anything at all about solex carbs), but hot starting problems due to evaporation of fuel from carbs is common in some vehicles. Could just be that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Range Rover Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 Thanks for the reply. I left it standing for about 1.5hrs, but still had the same problem - ended up towing it back.. Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 If it's got an ignition amp on the wing or dizzy, suspect that. They suffer heat related faults that get worse over time. The later dizzy mounted ones are ~£35, the early ones are spendy but you can replace them with a GM amp for ~£25 that will run a huge racing coil happily. I think I've posted about it before if you do a search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Range Rover Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Thanks, Im off to work now but will have a look later. excuse my ignorance but what would the amp look like? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Range Rover Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Had a look for the amp just now, I think I have found it. Please see the pics below. There are two wires from the amp to the dizzy, and a couple from the coil into the amp. The coil is mounted ontop of the amp. Please could you clarify these pictures are of the amp. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Yep, that's the amp all right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Range Rover Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Thank you! I will get it off and try my mates one to see if it helps.. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vougese39 Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 try a new fuel pump as it sound like you have fuel starvation and the pump is overheating and packing up when it does not start do you have aspark? is it strong blue colour or a wimpy orange? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Range Rover Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 try a new fuel pump as it sound like you have fuel starvation and the pump is overheating and packing up when it does not start do you have aspark? is it strong blue colour or a wimpy orange? The fuel pump is mounted at the back of the land rover where the tank is, so this isnt getting hot. I havnt checked the spark whilst the problem is occuring actually. If the spark is bad, then would this help to indicate the signal amp as the problem? Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vougese39 Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 The fuel pump is mounted at the back of the land rover where the tank is, so this isnt getting hot. I havnt checked the spark whilst the problem is occuring actually. If the spark is bad, then would this help to indicate the signal amp as the problem? Thanks... as the pump is a electrical pump which has moving parts when it is worn or old it can overheat and seize very coman on all models old and new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Range Rover Posted July 8, 2008 Author Share Posted July 8, 2008 as the pump is a electrical pump which has moving parts when it is worn or old it can overheat and seize very coman on all models old and new The pump has already been changed by the previous owner, plus there is still fuel coming back on the return whilst the problem is there so think the pump is probabily ok? I have moved the same amp out of the engine bay now, and away from any heat, to see if that will cure the prolem, yet tonight had the same thing happen. Could the amps own generated heat be enough to cause the problems , even tho it is in now relativly cool surroundings? I would like to confirm it is the amp you see before splashing out on a new one. Its probabily a complete coincidence but both times its happened its been after putting it into low range! Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 It's the internal heat that does it, have you tried borrowing a known working one? If it fails it can be replaced with a GM unit for around £25 or you can swap in a later distributor with the module on the side which are more reliable and cheaper to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Range Rover Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 It's the internal heat that does it, have you tried borrowing a known working one?If it fails it can be replaced with a GM unit for around £25 or you can swap in a later distributor with the module on the side which are more reliable and cheaper to replace. I think I have found the problem. Noticed petrol pouring out onto the floor from the carb breathers. Realised there was nothing coming back the return to the tank. The return seems to be blocked (cant blow down it), and after a few mins of running it is filling the carbs and flooding the engine. After leaving it for 24hrs the petrol has evaporated and so seems ok again for 10 minutes.. I will get a new return sorted tomorrow and try again. Does this all seem logical to you? Also what type of oil, and how much should be in the carbs, there solex ones. Thanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mucdup3.5 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 It's the internal heat that does it, have you tried borrowing a known working one?. If it fails it canI had similar recent problems with my 3.5 efi I noticed that the return to the tank was just a straight piece of flexible fuel pipe this was kinking and shutting off the return to the tank. be replaced with a GM unit for around £25 or you can swap in a later distributor with the module on the side which are more reliable and cheaper to replace. Hi Chris, I had similar recent problems with my 3.5 efi I noticed that the return to the tank was just a straight piece of flexible fuel pipe this was kinking and shutting off the return to the tank on replacemet with the proper elbow fuel gushed through of course the efi is under much higher pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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