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pop rivets


robhybrid

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The rivets I'm using aren't hollow all the way through.

Blind rivets have the steel pin fed through from the 'inside' and distort the rivet until the pin snaps. If the head of the pin stays inside the rivet body after it's fitted then there's an air tight seal. However, sometimes the recoil effect of the pin breaking means the end of the pin is ejected backwards, leaving a hole right through the rivet. The type I have used on the intercooler are not hollow right through. The rivet body is cup shaped in profile, and therefore is the most efficient at making an air or water tight seal.

Les. :)

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The rivets I'm using aren't hollow all the way through.

Blind rivets have the steel pin fed through from the 'inside' and distort the rivet until the pin snaps. If the head of the pin stays inside the rivet body after it's fitted then there's an air tight seal. However, sometimes the recoil effect of the pin breaking means the end of the pin is ejected backwards, leaving a hole right through the rivet. The type I have used on the intercooler are not hollow right through. The rivet body is cup shaped in profile, and therefore is the most efficient at making an air or water tight seal.

Les. :)

Used on aircraft wings where you definitely do not want air leakage from the lower skin to the upper skin

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A few notes on rivets;

POP rivets are just standard blind rivets in which the mandrel (centre pin) is not designed to stay in place after fitting. It occasionaly does, usually if you have used the wrong grip length. for any rivet, you must use the correct length for the thickness of material; sounds obvious, but we've all seen the bodgers at work. The result will be poor grip so the joint will work loose. Loof for black gunge around a rivet. This is fret juice, and is liquidised metal produced by the rivet and the materail rubbing together. If you find this, you need to drill out the old rivet and replace it with an oversize.

There are various other types of blind rivets available which are specifically designed to retain the mandrel, particularly to high shear strength. These include various types made by AVDEL, plus MBC (mono-block concept) cherry etc. If you use these, you absolutely must have the right type of gun to fit them, as the nose on the gun is shaped to lock the mandrel in place as part of the fitting operation. If anyone wants more detail, pm me.

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Of course you could just have used rivnuts with a dab of thread sealant.

Have I missed something but since your were welding up the stub pipes why not just weld up the holes and the stubs directly to the end tanks? :blink::huh:

I am sure you had a good reason or I missed something in the reading.

Bu@@er, eyesight going as well, just looked at the pics a bit closer & relised you're using steel bits, sorry.

Edited by Niall_CSK
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I wish I could weld alloy. If I could, then the blaking plates would have been alloy and would look a lot neater than they do. The inlet/outlet pipes had to be steel as they have to take the weight of the connecting pipework, but they are each held on with 4 x M5 bolts tapped into the alloy tank.

Les. :)

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The inlet/outlet pipes had to be steel as they have to take the weight of the connecting pipework, but they are each held on with 4 x M5 bolts tapped into the alloy tank.

Ah, clear now, apart from that it looks pretty tidy considering what you had to work with.

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