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Brake pipe connectors


bishbosh
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I need to get hold of a t piece for brake pipes. I know the standard t piece exists but what I really could do with is a "splitter" that has one input at the top and two outputs at the bottom, rather than the outputs being at 180 degrees to each other.

Anyone know if something like that exists??

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Guest WALFY

Why not orientate the T piece so that the feed comes in 1 of the legs, and the flow goes out the other leg and the original IN.

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Is there any reason why you couldn't use a T piece on it's side?

That way you just have one brake pipe to put a 90 degree bend in. Which you could make quite tight.

Poor diagram I know! :ph34r::(

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EDIT: ok so it took me sooo long to do the diag, everybody else got there first! :lol::huh:

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Why not orientate the T piece so that the feed comes in 1 of the legs, and the flow goes out the other leg and the original IN.

That's my fallback position. :rolleyes:

The outputs are both braided flexis (front brakes) so it wouldn't be the end of the world, but ideally I still want parallel outputs......

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Are you routing them along the axle to eliminate the dangly hose that comes from under the arch to the caliper? I got a set of 1.65 meter long flexi hoses from QTservices, which run from the bracket just behind your front spring mount along the chassis rail, over the outrigger then back along the radius arm to the caliper. Ive had mine fitted for a few months now & they never get caught up. (shouldnt have said that should I) Qt ripped me off on the price, around 70quid but llama4x4 do them for around 15quid each which is a bargain. They come as part of Qts 3link front system usually, good idea but costly from them.

Adrian

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No joy at VWP. :(

A bulkhead fitting enables a hose / pile to pass through a bulkhead, or metal plate. In the case of a male to male fitting it would be threaded its whole length with a pair of nuts and washers to clamp the fitting to the plate, one nut and washer each side. I need this to fit to the braket by the front spring mount - the top of it will pick up the existing rigid brake line which has a female end. The bottom of it, on the other side of the braket will pick up on the T piece as discussed above. The other two ports on the T piece will receive the ends of the two fexible lines that run to the caliper.

There, clear as mud!

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Dual circuit RR axles onto a 90 - gives me vented discs as I am also going auto. Axle is mine, has had a lot of money invested in it and is in much better nick than the one on the 90. I know I wont have dual circuits, its just what I need to do to get the brake system to function!

I know I could split the 90 calipers and put in the spacers for vented discs but I though this route would be easier and as I said above, I have spent money on the RR calipers. If I can find the fitting it certainl will be. :unsure:

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Bish

why not run a single flexi from the end of the rigid pipe to the caliper body then use a t piece to take short lengths of rigid pipe to the caliper ports.

Could do but that means making up rigid pipes that I don't have the facility for.

Anyhow, problem solved - David at Llama4x4 has come to my rescue and I should have bulkhead fittings in my mitts by the middle of next week. :i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy:

Thanks all for your ideas :)

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On a similar note <threadjack - sorry Bish> does anyone know of a flexi hose which will fit to my standard 300Tdi Ninety front calipers from the rigid pipe on the chassis, so negating the rigid pipe on the swivel? Every time I want to take the hub off without disconnecting the brakes I have to distort the rigid pipe far enough that the caliper clears the disc, and it's surely just a matter of time before I wake up without any brakes because I've fatigued the pipe...

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Guest WALFY
David at Llama would know for sure, but you do realise you are supposed to take the top swivel pin out to relese the rigid pipes from the swivel.......???

Bish

Come on. Who does that? No one I know. They do as described, just move the caliper on the rigid pipe

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but you do realise you are supposed to take the top swivel pin out to relese the rigid pipes from the swivel.......???

I just release the bolts & previously have modded the bracket so it will slide in/out under the bolt heads when slackened :D would you want to loose 80% of your braking if the rigid pipe broke ----- I don't think so far to scarey to think about :blink::o

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Thanks Walfy - I'm glad it's not just me. If I pull the top pin then the swivel moves and I lose my house deposit as my landlord's driveway receives a healthy dollop of swivel grease, so I carefully zip tie the caliper to the spring while the hub's off - hence the concern about doing this too many times. I'll drop David a PM and ask him about flexi's.

I guess then the problem is keeping them away from the tyre in all steering + suspension positions.

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Guest WALFY

TC

I would suggest that the majority of people on here do as we do. How many people in the trade are going to undo the swivelpin and lose the oil and then replace it. Rather they'll just move the caliper on the hard pipe.

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For any items like that, get in touch with a Hydraulics company or someone that supplies hydraulic fittings if you can't get them through a brake mob, I've got boxes of that sort of stuff here at work

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A jack under the swivel when you undo the top swivel pin bolts stops you loosing any/too much oil, however for easy servicing just notch the brake pipe bracket that bolts on to the swivel pin. Sounds like Ralph has notched the swivel pin side of the bracket. I notch the hole where the flexi/hard pipe bulkhead fitting goes, then you just lossen the bulkhead fitting nut and the caliper swings out of the way without repeatedly bending the hard pipes. Or go flexi direct to the caliper, just watch for wheel/tyre rub and clearance. Banjo fitting on caliper end normally gives a better pipe run.

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