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building up a pair of doors...


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Hi All,

Just got to the stage where I've sent off a new pair of bare doors for painting, when they are back I need to strip all the internal parts. window winders, locks, rubbers....etc.. off of the old ones....

Are there any parts that will not transfer over to the new ones, ie brake if any attempt to remove them...?

Glued or stuck in place...

Would like to order any parts required while their away....

Many thanks

DAve

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front or rear ?

got same to do on my 110, haven't yet bought all the bits for the new front doors,got the bits for the rear [2nd row] doorsthough & took me agesto work out what I need, If you can hang on till morning I can add the pages if that's the doors your changing.

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Morning Ralph / Steve,

Thanks for your replies, I have a pair of offside doors to strip..

Won't be starting till the weekend so plenty of time to order parts and stuff..

Any part numbers for the clips and waist rubbers mentioned...?

As always a great help, many thanks

DAve...

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Hi All,

Just got to the stage where I've sent off a new pair of bare doors for painting, when they are back I need to strip all the internal parts. window winders, locks, rubbers....etc.. off of the old ones....

Are there any parts that will not transfer over to the new ones, ie brake if any attempt to remove them...?

Glued or stuck in place...

Would like to order any parts required while their away....

Many thanks

DAve

I needed new handles as the corroded metal fixings just spun inside the the plastic handle. You'll probably break some of the door card fixings and there's also a self adhesive sound deadening pad although how much difference this makes i'm not sure. On my 110 second row doors I also used a length of window channel and had to make up a couple of brackets which hold the small rectangular piece of glass next to the openable window. Its also handy to have a few spare countersunk self tapping screws I think there 3/8" i know that you can get the right ones from screwfix anyway. Be warned, you may spend a fair bit of time seaching for these screws which are hidden in the window channel!

Good luck

If you get stuck let us know i'm now on my 6th door!

Mark

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I needed new handles as the corroded metal fixings just spun inside the the plastic handle. You'll probably break some of the door card fixings and there's also a self adhesive sound deadening pad although how much difference this makes i'm not sure. On my 110 second row doors I also used a length of window channel and had to make up a couple of brackets which hold the small rectangular piece of glass next to the openable window. Its also handy to have a few spare countersunk self tapping screws I think there 3/8" i know that you can get the right ones from screwfix anyway. Be warned, you may spend a fair bit of time seaching for these screws which are hidden in the window channel!

Good luck

If you get stuck let us know i'm now on my 6th door!

Mark

Thanks Mark, can't wait to make a start..

Cheers

dave

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I did replace all channels and rubber strips as the old ones were rotten. Same with the door handles, unable to get the screws out. Expect to source some more bits than you initially planned for. Buy all small plastic fittings new anyway as the will break.

And spend time on soundproofing the new door prior to fiiting, my 200Tdi is now more silent than my Td5.

Cheers

Marco

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