MarkL Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Hi there, Recently got two wing-top chequer plates from Paddocks. They came with bolts, washers and nyloc nuts for fitting. It seems really awkward to fit using nuts and bolts .. would I be better off using rivnuts? Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Most people use blind rivets, although you can screw then on with small self-tappers. Steel screws however, rust and eventually let go, but you could use stainless instead. Electrolytic reaction is a problem with either if these - rivets are alloy, so last longer. If you put a thin bead of silicone sealant inside the edge of the chequer plate it will prevent dirt/water from getting between it and the wing top. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 If they have countersunk bolts like the Genuine ones, use them. It does take longer (I have Gen ones) but the finished result looks a hell of a lot neater and more professional! Worth a couple of hours effort IMHO - all you need to do is take the plastic trim out of the wing top (which you need to do anyway) and the headlight unit out which is only a few screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WAFLY Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Stephen The latest gen wingtops come with the countersunk bolts and rivnuts. I used the screw holes around the vent on top the wing to securely locate and then drilled each hole and fitted the rivnut, then drilled the second and fitted and so on. In the end it means you undo and do up a lot of bolts but you can be sure that they are all in the correct position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 StephenThe latest gen wingtops come with the countersunk bolts and rivnuts. I used the screw holes around the vent on top the wing to securely locate and then drilled each hole and fitted the rivnut, then drilled the second and fitted and so on. In the end it means you undo and do up a lot of bolts but you can be sure that they are all in the correct position. ^^^^ I just did exactly the same as that. but used nuts and bolts instead of rivnuts. I had a roll of sticky back thick foam tape (we use it at work for sticking the touch screen overlays onto monitors) so i ran that around the edge of the ali and trimmed it off with a stanley. i used stainless countersunk bolts, cost about £4 for 10 of them, well worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 StephenThe latest gen wingtops come with the countersunk bolts and rivnuts. I used the screw holes around the vent on top the wing to securely locate and then drilled each hole and fitted the rivnut, then drilled the second and fitted and so on. In the end it means you undo and do up a lot of bolts but you can be sure that they are all in the correct position. That's exactly what I did when fitting mine - put those in, then checked the alignment of the protector against the seam between the wing top and side (because it looks awful if it isn't exactly right) then did one bolt at the front and one at the rear, tightened those up to locate it and then did all the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkL Posted July 31, 2008 Author Share Posted July 31, 2008 Thanks for the advice .. I have some rivnut ordered from eBay, so as soon they arrive I'll get to work .. bit by bit seems to be the way everyone has fitted them!! thanks again Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 I like the countersunk screws but good results can also be achieved using good quality closed end countersunk pop rivets too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 I've used closed-end (solid) normal domed-head Aluminium Rivets and counter-bored them into the 5-bar pattern with a 10mm 'Bullet' drill, like this - Black & Decker Piranha Hi-Tech Bullet Drill Bit For Metal 10mm x 133mm X51108 The end result looks like this - Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Why have you attached a lifting eye to the top of your wing Paul? it'll rip the wing off Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuntman Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Bush wires at a guess?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Why have you attached a lifting eye to the top of your wing Paul? it'll rip the wing off Les. It's for 20mm hawser "branch deflectors" Les.... dontcha know nuthin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 Why have you attached a lifting eye to the top of your wing Paul? it'll rip the wing off Les. I knew I should have photo-shop'ed it out of the picture Some time ago, someone wanted to know what NRC9011 looked like, and on top of my wing was a convenient place to take some pictures of it. These are the only close-up pictures I have that show how I've rivetted my chequerplate. Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GL88 Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 When I fitted my genuine parts chequer kit I gave up on the rivnuts and used ordinary hex nuts instead. I found that it was impossible to drill a hole that was the precise diameter needed to effectively press the splined shank of the rivnut into the bodywork. Can't remember what sizes but one drill size was too large and the next down too small and the supplied glue was pretty useless. While they are theoretically a great idea only needing access from one side of the panel it is pointless to use a fixing that pulls out when tightened. In addition using hex head nuts meant I could thread-lock some of the bolts to manage any risk that someone might take a fancy to the kit. But the access to fix nuts for the wing panels is a bit tight. In the end I discovered that the best way was to hot melt glue gun them into a long 10mm ring spanner and wave that at the end of the bolt. I think the countersunk socket head stainless screws look best. Try Screwfix part number 96477 (wrong picture in the web and paper catalogues) and for a few quid you can replace the rusty bonnet hinge screws too. (edited for spelling, etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul stage1v8 Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 I used blind rivets, and counterbored the holes in the 3mm chequer so they are flush, you have to look closely to see them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkL Posted August 1, 2008 Author Share Posted August 1, 2008 Thanks Guy .. good points about the theivery! Maybe I'll stick with the supplied counter-sunk bolts and nyloc nuts!! The fools also haven't a hole cut for the radio aerial!! Thanks everyone for the advice! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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