Jammy123 Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Hi, I have been having a problem with my clutch, If I keep it held down for a long time (say at long traffic lights) then try to select gear I can't without releasing the clutch pedal, then need to press it back down and select a gear. This also happens when a gear is selected, and I hold down the clutch pedal or do alot of reversing where you dont fully release the clutch. This then results in not being able to disengage gear and a 'Controlled' stall is required, then once clutch is released and depressed again a gear can be selected. Sometimes you go away and there basically is no control (I.E. however slow you release clutch it just 'kangaroo jumps', once it even started pulling away with clutch still down!) Now is this perfectly normal as its a hydraulic clutch?? (Although never had any problems on old tractors etc with hydraulic clutches). Its my first landy and I have only had it since last Oct so I have nothing to compare it with. Also it is not losing any clutch fluid, resovoir is always full. CLutch is perfectly fine when driving etc, and problem only occurs when its held down for few minutes. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Sounds like weak master cylinder seals to me. The fluid creeps past the seal and gradually releases the clutch without your help. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jammy123 Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 Sounds like weak master cylinder seals to me. The fluid creeps past the seal and gradually releases the clutch without your help.Les. As a new master cylinder is not to expensive (only 10.43 + VAT from paddocks) , its probably worth changing it, and seeing if that hopefully solves the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 That will be a Britpart master cylinder - I strongly advise you to buy a genuine item. There's more than a reasonable chance that you will be changing it again soon otherwise. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jammy123 Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 Righteo, so best place would be from a LR dealership then? Or are there cheaper places to get OEM items? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Any parts supplier worth their salt should be able to offer you a choice, typically of the three "LR boxed - from the dealership", "OEM", "pattern" Of course, often the difference between "LR dealership" and "OEM" is nothing but the LR box, and the price..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACK CAB Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Hi, Paddocks do TRW Lucas 550732G, as do BearMach. Around £20 + Vat. Main Dealer price just over £60 + Vat. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 If you can find a place it would pay you to get the old cylinder resleeved with stainless steel. There is not a lot of difference between the genuine and pirate parts, none of them last. We don't fit any new master cylinders any more. And the seals must be genuine OEM Lockheed AP, not the Britpart rubbish. The Bearmach seals are genuine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jammy123 Posted August 4, 2008 Author Share Posted August 4, 2008 Just brought myself a new Lockheed Delphi clutch master cylinder. Cost just under £26, which seemed quite good. Just got to fit it now at weekend and hop it solves problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jammy123 Posted August 10, 2008 Author Share Posted August 10, 2008 Just fitted the new master cylinder today and its all fixed now!!! Took about 3.5hrs to do inc. quick wire brush and spray paint job. Had started leaking a small amount, so just caught it in time...Next job replace rear shocks, although bottom nut is completly seized on so bit of heat required me thinks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 just use a nut splitter or cut it off, the new shocks should have new fixings & bushes with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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