Jump to content

Clutch Problem

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have been having a problem with my clutch, If I keep it held down for a long time (say at long traffic lights) then try to select gear I can't without releasing the clutch pedal, then need to press it back down and select a gear.

This also happens when a gear is selected, and I hold down the clutch pedal or do alot of reversing where you dont fully release the clutch. This then results in not being able to disengage gear and a 'Controlled' stall is required, then once clutch is released and depressed again a gear can be selected. Sometimes you go away and there basically is no control (I.E. however slow you release clutch it just 'kangaroo jumps', once it even started pulling away with clutch still down!)

Now is this perfectly normal as its a hydraulic clutch?? (Although never had any problems on old tractors etc with hydraulic clutches). Its my first landy and I have only had it since last Oct so I have nothing to compare it with. Also it is not losing any clutch fluid, resovoir is always full. CLutch is perfectly fine when driving etc, and problem only occurs when its held down for few minutes.

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like weak master cylinder seals to me. The fluid creeps past the seal and gradually releases the clutch without your help.


As a new master cylinder is not to expensive (only 10.43 + VAT from paddocks) , its probably worth changing it, and seeing if that hopefully solves the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any parts supplier worth their salt should be able to offer you a choice, typically of the three "LR boxed - from the dealership", "OEM", "pattern"

Of course, often the difference between "LR dealership" and "OEM" is nothing but the LR box, and the price.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can find a place it would pay you to get the old cylinder resleeved with stainless steel. There is not a lot of difference between the genuine and pirate parts, none of them last. We don't fit any new master cylinders any more. And the seals must be genuine OEM Lockheed AP, not the Britpart rubbish. The Bearmach seals are genuine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just fitted the new master cylinder today and its all fixed now!!! Took about 3.5hrs to do inc. quick wire brush and spray paint job. Had started leaking a small amount, so just caught it in time...Next job replace rear shocks, although bottom nut is completly seized on so bit of heat required me thinks!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy