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Wheel stud replacement


white90
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Yes, just knock them out - use an alloy or brass drift if you don't want to damage the threads. I'm not sure if there will be enough room to fit longer studs though - it's a pretty tight gap.

The new studs are pulled into place with a reversed wheel nut.

Les.

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70mm from rear face of mounting hub to face of brake disc.

when the stud is knocked back does it allow itself to be angled to pass the bell of the brake disc?

standard studs are 40mm the extended ones 60mm I actually need 46mm to deal with my application

so worst case I could cut the longer ones down if needs be to get them in

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Two done two to go

removing old studs fairly easy with a 3lb club hammer.

new ones drawn in with a wheel nut/spacer

replaced seals/greased bearings and replaced rigid brake lines(corroded)

the Rave manual is bonkers there is no way in hell the old studs will come out with the brake disc on.

Got the new studs far cheaper than everywhere mentioned.

Paddocks came good 1/2 the price of anyone advertising on the Net

post-5-1218134905_thumb.jpg

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Got the new studs far cheaper than everywhere mentioned.

Paddocks came good 1/2 the price of anyone advertising on the Net

Are they the Britpart FRC7577?

How much are they charging for each stud?

Paul.

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Britpart FRC7577 £2.15 each inc VAT

That's well under half the price most Britpart resellers charge and a hell of a lot cheaper than LR Genuine Parts.

What's the quality like? - Britpart or OK? :rolleyes:

Paul.

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Paul in all honesty they are good quality

price wise i was shocked when i called them to and asked them to check i was getting the correct part.

Time will tell how they fair.

even after pushing the wheels over the studs(with the holes to tight) read booting them

then nuts ran on ok, but I did need the wheel wrench.

The original studs are seriously strong though, I beat them out with the club hammer straight on the ends

and not one of them is damaged, the nuts run on by hand.

I found it easier to knock the studs back when the hub was still on the car, I tried both ways.

getting the brake discs off undamaged is none to easy though, I resorted to the hammer again

2lb ball pein this time :) onto a flat steel plate from the inside.

the new studs are rather too long(especially with the modulars fitted) but I felt uncomfortable running the Stazworks with the nut only 7.5 turns onto the stud(normal is 12 turns)

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  • 6 months later...

Sorry to resuscitate such an old thread (but on the plus side, I did use the forum search ;)), but I ran into some problem trying to fit new studs to the rear n/s at the weekend. They were too long to slide through the hole with the bell in the background. Odd, as when I removed the old ones, they just slid out. Closer inspection revealed that someone had possibly been at them with the grinder/hacksaw, shortening them a little.

Although it's a defender 90, it has disc brakes on the rear so is either disco or RR (I believe).

Also-odd is that I replaced some on the o/s rear a while back, and they slid right in. Same parts, all out the same packet.

So, how much of the hub do I need to remove/split to get these damn things in ?? Or am I one reply away from a head-slapping "doh-type" moment ? :)

Pics

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/X5V...feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/eob...feat=directlink

Doesn't look like much to go - but it's enough. Considering giving the head of the stud a little strategic flat-grind along the side for clearance...

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x5 14mm 12point bolts on the reverse when you remove the hub from the axle

remove these and then place a suitable piece of steel across the inner hub

and then with a Large hammer apply enough hits to separate the two,

I then cleaned the faces with a pig tail wire brush on the grinder before reassemble

using Loctite on the 14mm bolts, once the hub is off the car place it back inside the wheel

to hold it whilst undoing the bolts that hold the disc on.

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  • 4 months later...

Just to add, 1987 110 with drums on rear. Paddock +15mm studs.

Remove drum, knock out original studs, rotate stud hole to a favourable position so new stud sits behind top inside of leading shoe, use nut to draw it in. Refit drum. Easy

Fronts require disc removal.

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  • 1 month later...

Just to add, 1987 110 with drums on rear. Paddock +15mm studs.

Remove drum, knock out original studs, rotate stud hole to a favourable position so new stud sits behind top inside of leading shoe, use nut to draw it in. Refit drum. Easy

Fronts require disc removal.

Hi,

Almost the same car, surely the same problem. Are FRC7577 mandatory or just the bit longer RUF000020 are enough to hold wolf rims in place ?

Carlos

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Hi,

After some search, I found a nice detailed list about LR studs here:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34407&view=&hl=ruf000020&fromsearch=1

I agree with you about running wolf rims with standard studs (I had a series with disco rims and never had a problem with it). But my real concern comes from the wheel spacer... there are less than 7 turns in the nut... so I was planning to press new studs to the spacer, although the spacer and the added offset of the wolf rim makes the defender to look a bit strange...

Don't know what I will do about this issue. I was just picking some information. Thanks a lot,

Carlos

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  • 3 months later...

Small health warning here

if you fit the longer studs then revert to standard wheels you will damage the nuts as they bottom out chewing the threads up.

This is from experience where I had to replace the studs again after ruining them.

I assume you mean alloy nuts, how much do they need to be trimmed to work well for both? Might as well get a machinist to shorten them in a nice clean way. Probably going to plate them before fitting anyway. (yeah, defender is an odd choice for someone who hates corrosion).

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