Wheel stud replacement

[white90]

I am referring to standard wheels with steel nuts.

for alloy wheels and associated nuts then trimming of the stud would seem to be the best plan.

When I refitted the Modulars after the beadlocks the nuts bottomed out unbeknown to me until I removed them and they chewed the studs up.

[cieranc]

I never found this, after fitting the Paddock +15mm studs I tried an original wheel on. I blued the studs so could see how far the nuts went on. Torqued up correctly with 2 threads to spare.

[gruntus]

Chaps,

This thread is a pheonix!

Having resurrected it again I wondered if my following train of thought is ok?

I have early 90 axles and a RRC rear axle, I was of the opinion before I refurbed both axles that I could fit boost alloys as long as I had a RRC/Discovery rear axle.

I have since discovered that the early drive flanges on the front axle foul the alloys!

So, obtaining/refurbing another later front axle is out of the question I was going to do the following:

1)Replace all the studs front and back to the longer ones that Tony has fitted.

2)Buy some spacers to give the alloys enough clearance of the front drive flanges (obviously fitting the spacers on all four corners to get symetry of the wheels).

Does the above sound ok and not too ludicrous? This will also give me a better/increased turning lock which cant be a bad thing.

Please note I'm not looking to extend the wheels by a massive amount, just enough so that I dont have to dress the inside of the alloys to get them to fit.

If its all a sound idea is there a specific thickness of spacer I should fit to give me the clearance but not have the wheels sticking too far out?

And if all this has been done before does anyone have some links etc of recommended places to shop.

As always thanks for any advice.

Cheers

G

[western]

have early 90 axles and a RRC rear axle, I was of the opinion before I refurbed both axles that I could fit boost alloys as long as I had a RRC/Discovery rear axle.

I have since discovered that the early drive flanges on the front axle foul the alloys

http://www.web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=articles/alloys

might help. slight mod to the drive members NOT the wheels

[ejparrott]

Very rough and ready way to do it, but hey, if it works!

Persoannly, I'd put the hub in a lathe and machine the diameter, and probably re-machine the seats on the drive flange to retain the spring washers, but mainly because I have the equipment to do the job. However, if the motor's off the road for a while - do you know anyone?

Like the copper grease idea...never thought of that..always used blue myself...

[gruntus]

Thanks Gents,

I had thought about doing the "dressing" option provided by Ralph but thought fitting spacers and longer studs would be safe, would mean I could fit most defender alloys without any issues and give me a marginally better turning circle, and also make it look a bit more butch .

I am looking at June to complete my project so there is no rush on this and I may just put it on its disco rims initialy to see how it sits.

Thanks again and Ralph we should put you forward on master mind with specialist subject of Green Oval!

All the best

Grant

[gazelle]

Yes, just knock them out - use an alloy or brass drift if you don't want to damage the threads.

Could you all give me some ideas for something I can use as a drift to remove a sheared wheel stud. There is about 1 to 2mm left on the hub.

Cheers

Martin

[white90]

any piece of steel that will fit ontop, bolt/drift then a club hammer and belt it they are not in there that hard.

[gazelle]

Old one is now out, but I cannot get the new one in for love nor money. Any hints?

[white90]

yes a wheel nut to draw it in with a pi;e of washers/larger nut as a spacer.

[gazelle]

The problem I am having is physically getting the stud into the hole. The hub/disk assembly gets in the way. Once I get it through then I can use a nut in the usual way.

From all that I have read it should be possible to get in, but I cannot work out the geometry.

The stud is a standard length one ruf000020

Does the hub have to come off for standard length studs?

Cheers

[Retroanaconda]

I did read somewhere on here that someone tried to do it with the brake disc attached...but found it was impossible and the disk had to come off.

[white90]

I defiantly had to remove the Disc for longer Studs the RAVE manual is also wrong as it says the disc does not need removing.

[gazelle]

Hub/Disk off is beyond my comfort level - off to the independent LR garage then!

Thanks guys - I thought I might be going mad(der)!

Cheers

Martin

[white90]

Shame there really is little to it

maybe someone local can watch over you whilst you learn?

I'd show you happily if you were closer

[ajh]

As another option, does anyone sell the lugnuts (both steel and alloy) pre-drilled for safety wire?

[gazelle]

I'd show you happily if you were closer

Thank you, I appreciate the thought

Editted to ask :Is it basically this?

[Retroanaconda]

In terms of removing the hub then yes that's basically it. If you have disc brakes then the brake disc needs to be removed from the hub to allow the studs to be removed/inserted.

Before removing the brake disc to hub bolts (which are very F tight), make a small mark between the two components so that you can put it back on in the same orientation that it came off it.

As always when taking off the hub, be scrupulously clean. You don't want bits of dirt getting into the bearings etc inside.

[gazelle]

For the record, replacing the rear wheel studs on a 2002 model Defender cannot be done without removing the hub. The independent garage that replaced it for me for a reasonable fee tell me that earlier models had different hubs which, with some grinding of the stud, could be done in situ, but not the later ones.

Thanks to Rangers 4x4 in Guildford, who did it while I waited.

Must learn to do it myself.......(Need confidence.......that was one reason for buying the LR.......)