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V8 not starting -well! a bit cough splutter


blz6662
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Hi all haven't posted for a while, trying to be clever and solve everthing myself. Anyway here's the problem - Vehicle is Range Rover chassied hybrid, 90 front end, 2A body fitted with 3.9 V8 Prefix 47A engine 9.35:1 comp.

When I bought this animal it was a runner - just. It seamed like the previous owner had nailed it together, had fun until trouble started then got rid. After a small amount of use by myself it just gave up although when it rid run it sounded sweet - no timing issues. Now I've righted many wrongs I can't get it to start easily if at all so now I want to improve the ignition system to solve what seams to be a weak spark! - We have fuel, spark etc at the right time, it just wont catch.

Can you guys recommend what is the best dizzy to use as I suspect this is part of the problem - its a points type dizzy at the mo and the small earth lead from the top plate to base is very thin. Not sure if the vac advance is any good either.

Also can you recommend a good performance coil - the existing one is pretty rough looking but still sparks - I did try a Maga spark 2 coil (new) and this had no effect on starting except the coil got hot on cranking. On this point shoud a ballast resistor be used on this installation as there is not one fitted at the moment and if so how do I wire it in - could this be the answer.

Nearly there sorry to go on!!!!

Things replaced to date

New LUCAS EVERYTHINGS Dizzy cap, rotor arm, points, condenser & NGK plugs (BPR6E)

New Magnacor blue plug & king leads.

New RED TOP Fuel Pump & Filter King with gauge (set at 6 psi)

New fuel lines thoughout.

Serviced and set-up carb - Holley 470cfm Truck Avenger - manual choke.

One final thing could it be the unleaded needs a bit of octane booster?

cheers in advance

Baden

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Just a thought,

If it's not been run for any legth of time the unleaded petrol goes off, a few months in some cases. :blink:

Thanks for that thought but just put 30 ltrs of fresh shiney EXPENSIVE unleaded in. I thought it might be a pick-up pipe problem - but no, and I now have over half a tank full - Keep your thoughts and info coming

cheers

Baden

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You could try swapping the condensor as it is not unknown to buy a duff one as new.

Also , is the wiring correct for starting, it could be wired for a spark whilst cranking and then switchhing off when key back to run :)

Try over advancing the timing to see if it starts

Keep a light throttle when starting or it retards the ign via the vac unit.

Trying :P

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I'd start by pouring an egg cup's worth of petrol down the carbs' first to make sures its not fuel starvation before looking at ignition faults.

If this doesnt do anything - and by that i mean not even a cough and a splutter try wiring in temporary low tension wires from the coil to the distributor as standard wiring tends to go brittle with heat and age.

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I believe a ballast resistor should be used to prevent the coil from cooking itself.

I'm off to look at the cct to check.

RR

Cheers, I had a feeling that was the case and would explain the Megaspark 2 coil getting hot on cranking. From the wiring diagrams I can find (Haynes dare I say!!!! yuck) do I take a live feed to one side of the ballast (I've got one of those big chunky ones from V8 TUNER) along with a live spliced from the starter solenoid supply, then the other terminal on the ballast to feed the coil pos+?

I'm considering buying a new coil just in case I've cooked the others - Thinking of getting an Aldon Flame Thower along with some NGK BPR6EIX Iridium plugs. Any comments on that guys. Also considering buying a new dizzy from RPI - 35DLM8 c/w 3 pin module on the side. I understand that I would not require the ballast then.

Keep the thread going guys as I've got to get this beggar going to save my daily drive up my farm track.

cheers

Bade

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Cars fitted with ballast resistors will NOT have a 12 volt coil, usually 6 or 9 volt coils. This is so that during cranking (starting) battery voltage is applied to the 6/9 volt coil. For 12 volt cars this usually means less than 12 volts during starting due to the starter motor pulling battery terminal voltage down which is the purpose of using 6/9 volt coils.

If your coil is getting hot during starting then it wont be from not using a ballast resistor as this is by-passed during starting and connected when the engine is running to drop the 12volt down to 6/9 volts.

If the coil gets hot whilst running then it may be because you dont have a ballast resistor fitted and it is a 6/9 volt coil.

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I'm considering buying a new coil just in case I've cooked the others - Thinking of getting an Aldon Flame Thower along with some NGK BPR6EIX Iridium plugs. Any comments on that guys.

Yes - don't bother. NGK plugs is what you need, nothing fancy - I've seen fancy plugs cause poor running before more than once. Fitting a silly racing coil could well be cooking your points, you need a standard one. Racing ones will draw more current and either melt your points or burn out your amp. As an interim solution, the upgrade I mentioned will happily run a big fat racing coil and only cost £25.

Also considering buying a new dizzy from RPI - 35DLM8 c/w 3 pin module on the side. I understand that I would not require the ballast then.

Don't waste your money, I dunno how much they charge for a dizzy but I can bet it's waaay over the odds, if you're spending that kinda money look at MegaJolt + EDIS which removes the dizzy altogether. Failing that, find a 2nd hand one for ~£50 max.

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Don't waste your money, I dunno how much they charge for a dizzy but I can bet it's waaay over the odds, if you're spending that kinda money look at MegaJolt + EDIS which removes the dizzy altogether. Failing that, find a 2nd hand one for ~£50 max.

Is Megajolt THAT good,, is it worth saving up for and can I do it.

Electrickery frightens me sometimes, although a can alter a dizzy and set the timing up to my spec.

Does the Megajolt require lots of sensors, for instance, how does it measure throttle openings on twin SUs and are we into sads and afms?

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Is Megajolt THAT good,, is it worth saving up for and can I do it.

Yes, yes, and probably :P

First, how's these for some sparks:

jolt2.jpg

Second, it runs underwater, as in properly running without spluttering, properly underwater. You can read Boothy's "customer satisfaction report" here :lol:

Does the Megajolt require lots of sensors, for instance, how does it measure throttle openings on twin SUs and are we into sads and afms?

Nope, MegaJolt does not need to measure throttle openings, you use the built-in vacuum (MAP) sensor and it works it out from there. You need a crank mounted sensor for the EDIS to work out where the crank is and how fast it's turning. Here's the MJ wiring diagram:

post-21-1218063998_thumb.png

The EDIS wiring diagram is not much harder, you've got the crank sensor (2 wires), +12v feed to the unit and to the coil packs, ground, four coil wires and the PIP and SAW connection to the MJ.

You can see ThreeSheds MJ install here.

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