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Clutch won’t disengage.


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Replaced the clutch plate, cover, release bearing, pilot bushing, release fork, master, and slave cylinders. The clutch now will not fully disengage. I can still shift into 1st (although not easily) with the pedal fully depressed but not into reverse. Have bled a quart of brake fluid through the system and haven’t seen any air in quite a while. Any thoughts?

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Have played around with the pedal adjustment some but I don't know what is "right." At the moment, fully depressed it is a millimeter from the bulkhead. When it first went back together it was about 4 or 5 cm from the bulkhead fully depressed. It feels "ok" but maybe a little light when pressing it.

Changed everything but the master cylinder yesterday, function checked it but it was doing the same thing, changed the master today and there is no difference.

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Hi mate,

I changed the clutch on my mates 300 disco the other week and had almost exactly the same problem. After taking the gearbox in and out several very fustrating times we realised we had fitted the clutch in the wrong way around - no fault of our own however, Haynes Manual is actually printed incorrectly and we installed it as it says which is actually the wrong way around!

I would double check you have the clutch in the correct way around (not using a haynes manual as a guide) and then try again.

Hope that helps

Tom

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We put the new one in the same way as the old one which was labeled with one side as "flywheel side." The spring protrusion was facing the gearbox.

After playing with the pedal some more, the clutch it's still barley catching but can now be shifted into reverse. I would guess that the gears are making one revolution every one or two seconds. I'll drive it around for a day or two and see if it just needs a break in. We weren’t able to put the flywheel on a lathe so that might be contributing a little.

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Something to consider which has caused me grief in the past is the spigot bush....

Sometimes they can be a bit tight when new and drag on the input shaft. I've also dealt with a vehicle which had a gearbox fitted under warranty by a reputable garage - that also had selection issues. When I pulled the box, there was nothing wrong with the clutch or it's hydraulics, but the spigot bush appeared to have been damaged and was partially cracked - a build up of swarf had then given rise to drag on the input shaft.

Matt

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Update of sorts.

I adjusted the pedal as per Western's far superior schematic image, :P and when I depressed the pedal the master cylinder froze. After a very impolite word or two out it came for an inspection. What I found is (forgive my lack of technical vocabulary) when the cylinder innards were nearly fully compressed the spring would hang up on the furthest bit from the push rod and turn it sideways (not much, but about 10 degrees). Not only that but when fully compressed it would make a click and lock that way until it received a hearty thump. And who made this master cylinder you might ask? Britpart no less. Nothing like replacing a bad part with a new, already broken part. Any how, a OEM part is now making it's way to me and hopefully will solve the problem.

On a second note, to keep her on the road (as it is my only vehicle) I refitted the old leaky master cylinder and the squeaking/slipping (See here) came back. So while the old clutch was quite warn, it appears that the culprit all along was the master cylinder.

Thank you all for your help. If I can get back on the lift I will check the spigot bush for wear and apply some more lubricant. I'll let you know when it's all patched up.

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Update of sorts.

I adjusted the pedal as per Western's far superior schematic image, :P and when I depressed the pedal the master cylinder froze. After a very impolite word or two out it came for an inspection. What I found is (forgive my lack of technical vocabulary) when the cylinder innards were nearly fully compressed the spring would hang up on the furthest bit from the push rod and turn it sideways (not much, but about 10 degrees). Not only that but when fully compressed it would make a click and lock that way until it received a hearty thump. And who made this master cylinder you might ask? Britpart no less. Nothing like replacing a bad part with a new, already broken part. Any how, a OEM part is now making it's way to me and hopefully will solve the problem.

On a second note, to keep her on the road (as it is my only vehicle) I refitted the old leaky master cylinder and the squeaking/slipping (See here) came back. So while the old clutch was quite warn, it appears that the culprit all along was the master cylinder.

Thank you all for your help. If I can get back on the lift I will check the spigot bush for wear and apply some more lubricant. I'll let you know when it's all patched up.

No consolation i know, but thats why many of us refer to Britpart as Sh--part. I am sure they they must supply something thats okay just never found it yet.

Regards

Keith

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No consolation i know, but thats why many of us refer to Britpart as Sh--part. I am sure they they must supply something thats okay just never found it yet.

Regards

Keith

Yeah... I took the warnings too lightly, I guess I had to learn the hard way.

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