Soren Frimodt Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Hi I don't know if there is something I have overlooked (probably) but is there any other screws/valves to adjust on my diesel pump than the ones positioned by the diaphragm, that can give it more fuel? I would like it to smoke a bit more "blackish" below max turbo pressure to give it more low end torque. I most admit that I'm most of a "petrol" head some my experience with diesel engines is a bit limited. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Don't if you want more power intercool it and have it mildly tweaked by a professional. These engines do not like to run hot which equates to rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muther Trucker Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 you can advance/retard the pump timing by slackening the 3 nuts holding the pump onto the timing case and rotating it, don`t know if it`ll give you the effect you desire, but it sure made mine smoke.... i also gave mine 3 full turns on the turbo rod thingy for a bit more poke... i`m not recommending either mod to anyone - i`ve only done this cos i miss my old 200tdi 90 and have come to the conclusion the only way to convince my mrs we need a tdi in the 110 is to blow the td up.... (plus i have some spare td bits in the garage.... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 I wouldn't recommend tweaking the pump at all. If you turn the pump on the timing rear case - you will only affect the timing. Retarding it will make it give off white smoke - especially when the engine is cold, and the further retarded it is, the more gutless it will be, so fuel consuption will go up. If you advance the timing, then you will get diesel knock (known as detonation), which is bad for the big end shells. The engine would benefit from an intercooler and you might then get away with a tiny increase in fuel delivery. Running temperature of this engine is critical, they suffer badly if the engine gets too hot - usually by cracking pistons. As a road-going engine, the TD is good - expect high 80's with a good engine in a 90, but it has to be cared for more than you would expect with any other engine. Signs of cracked pistons are - Oil in the air filter housing. Oil leaking from rocker gasket, filler cap, and oil being blown out of the dipstick tube. Exhaust-like pulsing from the filler hole in the rocker cover. At least a complete piston assembly (piston, rings, piston pin, and circlips are only about £40 each), so a trade account with 'pistons 'r' us' would be beneficial Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 Well the pistons are new (about 4000km) and bearings etc. Well.., about the wastegate i've mounted a top secret Go! Baby, Go!" button with a solenoid valve to shut off the air for the wastegate diapraghm.. Call me stupid if you like, but if it all blows to smitherines I have an excuse for mounting a big V8! But on the serious side an intercooler is coming along, and hopefully it will make it possible for the turbo to deliver a bit more pressure than it's sorry 0,9 bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Might I suggest then that you sell the TD before it goes bang and put the cash towards a V8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 Yes Honitonhobbit, a wise suggestion. But ofcourse I was exaggerating just a bit! But anyways the biggest issue in fitting a V8, is the lack of room when the car is LHD, the same is actually an issue when fitting any engine to a land rover thats LHD. It's obvious that it was designed RHD.. But speaking of V8, does any of you have weblink of some sort to a place where I can get an adaptor-plate (if its called that) for fitting a V8 on series box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 If you fit a V8 to a series gearbox - you are most likely going to have to get an account with 'series gearboxes 'r' us' - especially if you give it some abuse Fit an LT77/LT230 and covert the transfer box to match the series axles. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Make life simple go for a Ford V6 - say a 2.9 lump from a Scorpio. Donor car is cheap, engine is a hoot but not a complete Series gear box killer and it fits well in a left hooker. Adaptors are still easy to find, minimal silencing makes a noise like a banshee on speed and helium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 If you're not afraid of swapping pistons etc then you're going in with your eyes open - I say go for it. I'd recommend an EGT gauge, then use extra boost to offset the benefits of intercooling. You could try other methods to get the charge temperature down, like Jim Attrill's water injection plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 13, 2008 Author Share Posted August 13, 2008 Hi Turbocharger, like your plan. But what exactly do you want me to do with the EGT? Measure the exhaust temp now without intercooler, then fit one and tweak the engine until the exhaust temp. still is bit lower than without intercooler? And be a happy man? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Yes. If the temp is enough to kill a 2.5TD at 100,000 miles, then intercool it to reduce the temp and then use the pump to bring back to the same temp (if you're happy with a 100k rebuild) or a lower temp if you want the engine to live longer. If the engine behaves in a similar way to a 2.5NAD you can advance the pump timing slightly for more knock and more power, with the adverse effect on the big ends given above. When I replaced the pistons in my NAD I also put a set of injector needles from a Peugeot XUD9 engine in my 2.5NAD injector bodies - these had enough lift to push sufficient fuel for the 2.5NAD and they are pintle (as opposed to "pintaux") injectors, so they don't waste any fuel in the secondary spray to the glowplug. This does affect starting adversely and may not make any discernable difference to the power either but smoke should be down for a given fuel setting. My engine certainly went well - up to 50mph I was two carlengths ahead of a mate's 150,000 mile unmodified 2.5NAD Ninety, although some of that difference might just have been from general wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 13, 2008 Author Share Posted August 13, 2008 Cheers mate. But the timing adjustment, should I just do that the "trial and error" way? adjust it a bit, go for a ride, adjust a bit more until it runs slight worse then go back? Ofcourse a dyno would probably be to prefer, but haven't got any lying around in my backyard.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Most of my tuning was done on sound, you're aiming for a crisp combustion noise but not too much diesel 'clatter' - inevitably advancing the pump raises cylinder pressures and shortens the engine life, the question is 'how much?'. You can use a recording GPS as a dyno (with some considerable errors, but it's free) to see what benefits you're getting, but it's largely seat-of-the-pants and "ears open" I'm afraid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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