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Rear Diff Pinion Oil Seal


EdF
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Another way would be to use 3 large self-tapping screws, punch and screw in at 120 deg's to one another.

Then use a claw hammer to tweak each in turn, as the outer face distorts it should give in.

Ah, I did a search before I posted and saw a reference to self tappers, but didn't understand what it meant. I'll remember that one for next time. I just shifted it by hammering it inwards in a couple of spots with a big sharp screwdriver, which distorted the steel ring inside the seal enough to give a little bit of movement, then finally managed to oik it out, a la Mo. Corr, what a $£"*&! job. Difflock or someone else could do worse than market a little oil seal puller for this job. I've got one of those cheap sets of three different sized pullers and the smallest 'arms' were too chubby to go in the gap between seal and driveshaft, so I made three slimmer ones out of mild steel, but one of the ends came off under load. Might work with more care, maybe, perhaps... Many thanks both..

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Did you replace the fange at the same time?

When I did mine a few weeks ago I made the assumption that it was likely that the flange would be grooved and that I would rather do the job in one evening rather than having to then order the additional part. As it turned out I was completey correct and there was a very significant groove which made the old flange junk, I know you can get over this but not fitting the new seal in exactly the same place but why bother, the new parts are dead cheap and it is sorted once and for all.

The one thing I couldn't do was undo the the flange-nut, no amount of pressure I could apply even with a 3ft breaker-bar would make any impact as it was all taken up by the flexing of the half-shafts. In the end I just decided to pop the half-shafts and remove the diff (a simple 15-minute operation) and when the flange was clamped in the vice it was a simple job to undo the nut. Of course doing it this way means you can torque it up correctly as well.

I know people have got over this by jacking against a breaker-bar and using the weight of the vehicle to undo the nut but I didn't want to put unnecessary strain on the other components.

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I cannot shift this oil seal... Done the job before on another motor but this one is stuck fast. Any ideas please? Tried a puller but can't get the legs in, not enough room..

Have you ever tried to get the bearing out, a simple job on a normal diff but if you have lockers then its a PITA.

Like you say, pullers nearly do it and you would think with the amount of land rovers on the road it would be worthwhile some one making a puller to do the job externally.

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As you're taking the flange off. Use two of the bolts with a bar between them. If you bend them you can renew them. That holds the flange.

mike

I used one of those galvanised strips full of holes you use to hold roof trusses and other timbers down - they're useful for all sorts of small jobs. I enlarged one hole and drilled another 60mm away in a length of it about 2ft long and fixed it to the flange holes (that the propshaft bolts to) with a couple of 13mm bolts. Happily, it sat exactly under the exhaust pipe. This enabled me to undo the flange nut fairly easily - using an old bit of pipe over the socket ratchet handle for extra leverage. There was no groove in the flange shaft. What ticked me off was that I distorted the new seal putting it in as I couldn't find anything of a big enough diameter to use as a drift. I took it out again and will have to get another. Doh... What do you guys use?? I think I used a bit of plastic drainpipe last time...

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I used one of those galvanised strips full of holes you use to hold roof trusses and other timbers down - they're useful for all sorts of small jobs. I enlarged one hole and drilled another 60mm away in a length of it about 2ft long and fixed it to the flange holes (that the propshaft bolts to) with a couple of 13mm bolts. Happily, it sat exactly under the exhaust pipe. This enabled me to undo the flange nut fairly easily - using an old bit of pipe over the socket ratchet handle for extra leverage. There was no groove in the flange shaft. What ticked me off was that I distorted the new seal putting it in as I couldn't find anything of a big enough diameter to use as a drift. I took it out again and will have to get another. Doh... What do you guys use?? I think I used a bit of plastic drainpipe last time...

Fit it by hand 1st so that its just slightly in, then either use a big socket - hub nut spanner works- to tap it in with a mallet, or just use a bit of timber to tap in at 3, 6, 9, 12 O'clock positions. The main thing is to get it in square in the hole.

To undo the flange nut, 1st mark nut and flange. Fit socket to nut and fit a long (3 foot) breaker bar to skt. Place jack under mid way point of bar and jack up. Then when all slack gone, strike end of breaker bar with lump hammer, this will shock the nut undone. Count number of turns to undo. Refit with same number of turns so that your marks realign.

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Ah, I did a search before I posted and saw a reference to self tappers, but didn't understand what it meant. I'll remember that one for next time. I just shifted it by hammering it inwards in a couple of spots with a big sharp screwdriver, which distorted the steel ring inside the seal enough to give a little bit of movement, then finally managed to oik it out, a la Mo. Corr, what a $£"*&! job. Difflock or someone else could do worse than market a little oil seal puller for this job. I've got one of those cheap sets of three different sized pullers and the smallest 'arms' were too chubby to go in the gap between seal and driveshaft, so I made three slimmer ones out of mild steel, but one of the ends came off under load. Might work with more care, maybe, perhaps... Many thanks both..

Where good sense fails, brute force prevails :)

Mo

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