EdF Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 Just replaced the rear diff pinion oil seal - at last. Came to replace the rear propshaft and - arrggghh - one of the studs (bolts) poking through the handbrake drum began turning when tightening the nut. Never known THAT happen before.. Had to burn it off and I've got the handbrake drum off. I think removing the output flange looks easy (famous last words??) by locking the flange using the remaining bolts and undoing the big Nylock nut in the middle (someone please confirm!!) but what bothers me is that there seems no apparent reason for the bolt to turn, the head looks good, the corners on the head are not worn down and when I put a new bolt in there seems no reason that won't turn as well.. The motor is low mileage and not that old (2002) and there's no sign of previous 'trouble' and things having been dismantled before.. Any advice most welcome.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roybatty666 Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 Just replaced the rear diff pinion oil seal - at last. Came to replace the rear propshaft and - arrggghh - one of the studs (bolts) poking through the handbrake drum began turning when tightening the nut. Never known THAT happen before.. Had to burn it off and I've got the handbrake drum off. I think removing the output flange looks easy (famous last words??) by locking the flange using the remaining bolts and undoing the big Nylock nut in the middle (someone please confirm!!) but what bothers me is that there seems no apparent reason for the bolt to turn, the head looks good, the corners on the head are not worn down and when I put a new bolt in there seems no reason that won't turn as well.. The motor is low mileage and not that old (2002) and there's no sign of previous 'trouble' and things having been dismantled before.. Any advice most welcome.. Not only do a work for your forum name but I had the exact same thing hapen to me. Someone over tightened one of my nuts (oo er) and stripped the nut so it just span and chewed up the bolt. I ground and then split my nut off. The rear output flange comes off easy and be ready to catch the oil that comes out (I wasn't). With it off just whip off the sprung circlip pop in new bolts and pop the slip back on. I had to use an impact driver on the brake drum screws to get the brake drum off the flange just to complicate thins for me. Finding the transfer output flange bolts was tough as the code has changeds a million times but the main dealer can find it, they are 3/8th x 1.5" UNC bolts Was an easy job and got me to change transfer box oil at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 Not only do a work for your forum name but I had the exact same thing hapen to me. Uh? I added 'auto notify replies' but it didn't work. Logged on to add something and there you were.. Someone over tightened one of my nuts (oo er) and stripped the nut so it just span and chewed up the bolt. I ground and then split my nut off. The rear output flange comes off easy and be ready to catch the oil that comes out (I wasn't). Yep, another length of steel to lock it up and my last choice of big sockets fitted the big nut, phew.. Surprised by oil but waste oil tub from back diff handy! With it off just whip off the sprung circlip pop in new bolts and pop the slip back on. Yep.. I can only guess that undoing it earlier was the last straw.. I had to use an impact driver on the brake drum screws to get the brake drum off the flange just to complicate things for me. That fell out, getting brake drum off was a laugh cuz of proximity of silencer, but only took a couple of mins.. Once out, I never fully tighten the small brake drum securing screw/s and put copper grease on the threads, as even if loose, they can't come out. Only one big one on TD5. Miss that adjuster on the bottom of the handbrake drum.. Finding the transfer output flange bolts was tough as the code has changed a million times but the main dealer can find it, they are 3/8th x 1.5" UNC bolts Ta. Was an easy job and got me to change transfer box oil at the same time Luckily, my local stealership has all the bits I need in stock, but their small parts carousel (which goes up through the first floor) is knackered.. Two guys had to wind it around by hand to get the pinion oil seal.. They'll all be shagged out as they can't get it fixed for 2/3 days.. Can't understand why LR put 'old' nuts and bolts here and there.. UNC, AF, metric and metric fine all gets a bit annoying! Every Landy owner should own an angle grinder. I think LR should put one in every toolkit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 To conclude, I got the rear output flange off easily enough and found that the bolt head in question had made a mark in the flange shaft, enabling the head to turn. I realised the propshaft had been off before as Ashcrofts put the Disco ratios in the transfer box. One of the new bolts held in that hole as well as the others so I just put it back together. In future I'll take it easy when untightening/tightening those nuts (by holding the ratchet handle extension shaft 'tight') as jagging away at the nuts obviously causes the bolt heads to damage the flange. To get the bolt/s out of the flange one needs to take the circlip out of its slot and slide it down so it sits behind the brass coloured disc, then sit the flange on a bench, bolt threads upwards, and tap down with a hammer on each bolt in turn, letting the bolt heads push off the circlip and disc. I asked a LR technician in the stealership how to do it.. Easy when you know how.. I managed to fill the rear diff with fresh oil - standing up..! Used 4ft of hosepipe (caravan internal water pipe - nice and soft) with a funnel poked in one end and the funnel supported with a small bungee to the spare wheel. Poked other end of hose into oil filler 'ole, making sure the hose had a nice fall on it (back end of 90 on ramps), then gradually poured in 1.7 litres of EP90. Only took a couple of minutes. Used to fill one of those half litre plastic bottles and squirt it in, used to take ages.. Incidentally, in future I'll order the nuts and bolts from Paddocks as 8 nuts, 8 bolts, a new big Nylock nut for the output shaft and a fibre washer came to over £18.. And that's with 4WD club discount.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roybatty666 Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Glad you got it sorted, With regards to the bolts I would have maybe spot welded a bit of material to the side of the bolt head to stop it spinning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 £18 !!!!!! ouch ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted August 23, 2008 Author Share Posted August 23, 2008 The spot of weld occured to me, too, but my welder was sold after a V8 90 rebuild. I seemed to get one bolt with a head a tiny bit bigger than the rest, and it seemed ok. I had thought of drilling the head and putting a peg in it, but didn't want to jeopardise its strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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