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Extended wheel arches for 33s?


reggie
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I've just ordered a set of kuhmo KL71 33.12.5x15 on 10x15 black modulars.

My Rangie already has a 2" suspension lift & I'm waiting on my 2" body lift to arrive but I'm wondering will this be enough as it used to catch a little with the 235/85/16s on? Also will I need to fit some extended arches as the new wheel/tyres will stick out more?

I was going to fit 8x15 modulars but the chap at Paddocks said I would lose my steering lock with the wider tyres on those rims so I went for the 10x15s instead. They will look better anyway........ :D

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I think you would be fine with then 2" lift that you have, ditch the body lift and fit +50mm extended arches. The tyres you have on order are slightly undersized anyway, I have tyres that are just over 33", extended arches and a 70mm lift and they do not rub at all. Although the 70mm lift is only there ready for 35" simex in a couple of weeks. Otherwise, 50mm (2") would be fine.

HTH

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I think you would be fine with then 2" lift that you have, ditch the body lift and fit +50mm extended arches. The tyres you have on order are slightly undersized anyway, I have tyres that are just over 33", extended arches and a 70mm lift and they do not rub at all. Although the 70mm lift is only there ready for 35" simex in a couple of weeks. Otherwise, 50mm (2") would be fine.

HTH

I've already ordered the body lift now & its on its way so its getting fitted anyway. It used to catch before with the 235/85/16s on the n/s/f wing & the o/s/r arch when it articlulated a lot so I had already needed a body lift.

As for the 33" tyres I hope there not undersized as I could have just gone with the 265/75/16 special tracks I had planned to get but wanted a little more diff clearance so went for the 33s & spent more cash. How do you know there undersized anyway?

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What 2" lift are you running? Is it a long travel challenge kit or just +2" dampers etc.? This can determine how much your tyres will rub on arches etc. This will then tell you wether you can sell on the body lift to minimalise body roll

+2" Pro comps all round with extended bump stops in the rear.

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Whilst the majority of people are still using either 235/85 or 265/75 tyres then anything just over 32" will give you an advantage other them and I find the next size up of ruts tend to be made by 35" tyres. Also not that with wider tyres you will sin in less, particuarly in narror ruts so that should give you some more advantage over the masses.

Rhys

What springs, dampers, body lift, etc. are you using and have you had to trim the inner wheel arches to get your swampers to fit?

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Chris, I am running gwyn lewis challenge mounts front and rear with +5.5" rough country dampers. Springs are scorpion progressive on the rear and normal on the front. The springs on the back are suppossed to be on a 90 and for some reason give 70mm lift on the rear (also have D44 relocation cones) the front springs are scorpion 50mm but with a 20mm spacer as well. So 70mm lift on suspension and no body lift. Wheel arches are +50mm extended and have just cut the body work for them to fit. Even under full articulation the tyres do not rub. They have never rubbed and never will.

Also, my wheels are 8.5" wide and have 4.5" backspacing, this is a good size as they do not rub. Oh, and I would have a 50mm but going to run 35" simex in the next month or so.

HTH

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Interesting, I'm using the same damper setup, but with +2" lift springs (bearmach springs at a guess but not 100% sure which ones) on the rear with 40mm body lift and the swampers are still rubbing on the top surface of the rear inner wheel arches on articulation.

Do you know what rates and length your rear springs are?

I'm looking at getting some custom wound progressive rear springs to sort out the catching on mine and it would be good to compare my spring prediction to what is working for other people using a similar setup.

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Don't worry about the diff clearance, drive accordingly ;)

Also, you will be absolutely fine just running extended arch IMHO with the lift that you have. Here's mine that I listed above^^^

Looks good, a very capable looking machine. No doubt mine will end up that way one day but for the min I'm using it on the road as well so I want to keep it fairly civil. Thing is you can't help yourself, everytime you need a new part/bit you think ahhh maybe I'll buy something a little better than last time.

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Yep, pretty good machine that is

I have only used those tyres and wheels that are on it in the picture twice and have already given the tyres to my dad and am going to pick up some 35/10.5 simex et at land rover fest! I change my mind quite alot! Very good tyre though, would highly recommend it, unless as you stated you drive on the road. My setup on the road is nearly classed as dangerous :lol: beadlock wheels (not balanced), very soft, long travel suspension, and soft compound tyres that tend to scwirm all over the place! Have a look here though bobtail in action

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Rhys

The wheels on mine are 7mm negative offset, with an 8" width. I make that a back space of 3.75" or a differance in offset of 13mm

Before I stuck the bearmach springs on the back, it was on red/whites on the rear and when cross axled on those it was rubbing on both the top and verticle faces of the inner arch.

Reggie

Bewarned, modefying is every bit as addictive as you suspect.

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The trouble is talking about problems like that here is kind of like holding and AA meeting in a pub.

There is however a simple solution, take all your credit cards and savings and use them on modifing your range rover :lol: You can spend any more money on it if there is none left. Oh and you will need to stop working as well, its no good if your earning more money. Its that or start a vapour building instead.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Rhys

The wheels on mine are 7mm negative offset, with an 8" width. I make that a back space of 3.75" or a differance in offset of 13mm

Before I stuck the bearmach springs on the back, it was on red/whites on the rear and when cross axled on those it was rubbing on both the top and verticle faces of the inner arch.

Reggie

Bewarned, modefying is every bit as addictive as you suspect.

Hmmmm Chris, I am abit puzzled on that one :unsure:

Are your current springs that you are running +2"?

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Body lifts are relativerly simple to make as projects go. I bought longer bolts from a fastener supplier but the rest of mine is made from what I could lay my hands on. If fabricating is not an option then there are a fair few places I've seen selling parts for a body lifts. The one that sticks in my mind is Wizard, who sells on ebay and is a member on this and other forums.

http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...p=32%26fsoo%3D2

Rhys

The rear springs are nominally +2" though by my reckoning they are only 196 lbs/inch so fairly soft compared to some lift springs. I ran it up the ramp on the 205 all terrains I currently use on the road and they also rubbed :lol: It doesn't help that I also plan on carrying a lot of extra stuff when I do finally get round to some propper off roading.

I have a cunning plan that involves getting some custom wound springs for the rear, long enough to do away with dislocation and probably fit helper air bags inside the springs, but as much as I like buying stuff I dislike spending money so I'm still reasurching the air bags before making any rash decisions.

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I have a cunning plan that involves getting some custom wound springs for the rear, long enough to do away with dislocation and probably fit helper air bags inside the springs, but as much as I like buying stuff I dislike spending money so I'm still reasurching the air bags before making any rash decisions.

I should have a pair (or maybe 4) 19" free length 210lb/in springs coming free soon. Did about 6k miles on the Bishtail before she went. Supplied by Procomp as recommended by Si at X- Eng. They were excellent on the Bishtail and gave 2-3" of lift and still plenty of flex without being wallowy on road.

If you are interested let me know and I'll drop you a line once I've sorted the springs on the 90.

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I'm certainly interested as judging by the length and rate they would be probably work well with the setup already fitted.

What sort of springs are you planning on fitting to the 90?

If I end up doing away with dislocation I would require a spring the best part of 23" long, if used with the standard mounts and no spacers. Still its all part of the fun.

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