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Fitting an aftermarket immobiliser


rob90

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Hi Im going to fit a toad immobiliser for peace of mind to my 200 tdi 90.

It immobilises two circuits, I was thinking for one of the circuits the white wire off the pump? But for the second circuit I have no idea so any sugestions?

thanks

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immobilisers dont stop them, most thives hotwire vehicles at the ignition switch and where do most immobilisers connect?

in my opinion the battery isolator is the best method, it isolates everything, although you can run permanent feeds too, ive got one for my stereo's back up power so it doesnt forget all its stations, when detering thieves, do things that take time to bypass cos at the end of the day, if it takes too long to get it started, they're gonna give up

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+1 for the battery isolator. I got a pair with battery extension leads for £9 off Fleabay as new take off parts, one for each battery [split charge]. Easy to remove the keys, easy to hide the sockets, cheap for replacement keys, and a pain in the arse to bypass. Cheap and effective security all round.

Now all I need to do is remember the keys when I leave the house :rolleyes:

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where do most immobilisers connect?

Well, not wishing to give away the big secret, between the switch and the engine. Hotwireing at the switch would have no effect, it is that which immobilisers protect against.

In fact it would be ever-so easy to overcome the regular Cat2 type immobiliser on a Tdi. I would guess I could have the engine running in about 30 seconds. Less if I were prepared.

Chris

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Well, not wishing to give away the big secret, between the switch and the engine. Hotwireing at the switch would have no effect, it is that which immobilisers protect against.

In fact it would be ever-so easy to overcome the regular Cat2 type immobiliser on a Tdi. I would guess I could have the engine running in about 30 seconds. Less if I were prepared.

Chris

Yes, if you knew the fuel pump was isolated you could clip a wire from any +12v to the fuel pump.

A battery isolator and padlocking the battery box is harder to get around.

Couple that with a bonnet lock like older 90's (£30 ish) and something that makes a loud noise.

Rob, since thieves like to operate at night why not put the output on the lighting? Also makes it harder to find a permanent +12v to hotwire off.

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Thanks for youre input. just bought anothe isolator for the main battery, after weighing the job up and the pros and cons I might just send it in for a good quality alarm

Thanks

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I have both an immobiliser and battery cut out; the immobiliser activates about 30 seconds after the ignition is switched off.

So if you switch off the ignition then imediately cut the power with the battery cut off, the immobiliser is left in an unset state. Then you can leave the vehicle for however long, then just switch the battery isolator and then just start without the imobiliser fob.

Therefore make sure the imobisler has set before you cut the battery isolator.

Mark.

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i know people are recommending the battery isolators .....and i've fitted one myself on the 90... but would a well prepared thief not have one?

I passed a switch of this type on my off-road buggy the other day. I couldn't find the key so I un-did the 2 nuts put both wires on one stud and then tightened. They are not a theft deterrent unless maybe hidden inside a security cubby (including all obvious wiring)

I would hazard a guess that most stolen Defenders are taken away on tow trucks like most stolen cars.

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I passed a switch of this type on my off-road buggy the other day. I couldn't find the key so I un-did the 2 nuts put both wires on one stud and then tightened. They are not a theft deterrent unless maybe hidden inside a security cubby (including all obvious wiring)

I would hazard a guess that most stolen Defenders are taken away on tow trucks like most stolen cars.

No, most newer cars are stolen by obtaining keys - houses are easier to break into than cars. Obviously defenders are the exception since a 5 year old could hot wire it.

Mutiple security devices are the only solution.

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Unfortunately if they want it they will take it, the only thing you can do is slow them down enough so maybe they get caught in the act.

Another option to think about is a cat 3 mechanical immobiliser like a Meck Lock, this disables the clutch by way of a valve and although it can be bypassed it takes time and tools not readily at hand to the opportunist theif. As soon as the theif tries to drive the vehicle and depresses the clutch, the pedal stays on the floor and even if they pull it back up the clutch is still disengaged. Combine this with a hand brake lock and or a pedal lock and it will really slow them down.

Meck Locks are available from Mudstuff (No association etc)

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  • 3 years later...

I have been thinking about this.Would it be possible to fit a mercury tilt switch or something like that in the horizontal and obviously a method of deactivation linked to the mother of all horns or alarm klaxon type things and then if the vehicle was tilted or driven away on a low loader the inertia would activate the alarm.

This would make their low loader rather conspicuous on the road?

Just a thought Phase 2 come the poison gas and distress flares...just kidding but couldn't one of you wiring gods of the forum make the above into an effective deterrent?

Back to my shed now! :rolleyes:

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