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Wheel bearings


FridgeFreezer
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Anyone done a Freebie wheel bearing? The parts seem cheap enough (£25 from paddocks) but can anyone tell me how easy or hard they are to do?

Your going to need a decent press to press the old one out and the new one in.

Ottons changed one for me and managed to crushed a new bearing with warn set of tooling.( Don't ask me how)

Stunning have changed three for me using a standard press.(The racers liked them)

I've taken the hubs off and dropped them into the dealer's and given one of the mechanics at a dealers a drink to replace the bearing. (mainly because I don't have a press of my own)

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I can't answer your question exactly. But before you go down that route, what makes you think the bearing is shot? I'm not saying it isn't but i've driven a number of freelanders with feathered rear tyres that give the noise/feel of knackered wheel bearings.

Mark.

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The wheel bearing is a sleeved bearing, and the whole hub has to be removed in order to replace it (with a suitable press/drift). It's not easy to tell the bearing is at fault due to the drive train. You still can hear the all-too-familiar droning/rumbling noise when they are worn though. Unfortunately - worn diff bearings also make the same type of noise, so the only real way to know if the bearing is the problem is to disconnect the driveshaft and spin the wheel. Unfortunately this involves partial dismantling of the hub anyway.

Les.

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As soon as you start moving, there's a rumbling/grinding sort of noise that I don't think could be tyres at such low speed. I can feel some sort of play at the front wheel when I rock it (I need to jack it up to check properly), and after a long drive the hub was noticeably hot to the touch compared to the others. There's also the fact that the brakes seem to be squealing almost all the time unless you turn a corner.

Bear in mind this car had been sat for ~2 years before I got it, so the wheel bearings wouldn't be the first component to suffer because of that.

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Well, it's all a bit curious - since I had a tow pack to fit I took the opportunity to drop the VC and prop, which I've been meaning to do for some time. One of the bearings on the VC was noticeably rumbly.

Next up, check the wheel bearings - can't detect any play by rocking the wheel (I suspect what I felt the other day was a suspension joint or similar clonking) although the O/S/F wheel the brakes seem to be binding slightly. I've checked the pads (OK, loads left, wearing evenly), the caliper looks OK, I took it off for a look - my best guess is the floating pins may be a bit sticky but having opened it slightly to remove it we'll see if it sticks on again or not.

A short test-drive with no prop has proved the rumbly bearing noise has gone and the brakes aren't squealing at the moment. The rear tyres are scrubbed in the normal pattern, but since it's probably due some new ones come MOT time (and the tracking doing) I'll leave those for now.

So, it looks like the prop bearings were the source of the noise and the hot hub was a sticky caliper.

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my best guess is the floating pins may be a bit sticky but having opened it slightly to remove it we'll see if it sticks on again or not.

Take the floating/slider pins out and clean them off with scotchbright and brake cleaner.

So, it looks like the prop bearings were the source of the noise and the hot hub was a sticky caliper.

Erm....I replaced two prop bearings on the same Freelander and next things we know the IRD has given up.

Not personally sure of the chain of failure, but it seems to me that a failed/failing VC will take the prop bearings with it.....open to debate I'm sure and I'm not trying to be a doom-sayer :)

HTH

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But it will be driving the front wheels :P

OK smartarse :rolleyes: I mean the bit wot drives the back end along and takes the strain when the VC seizes up.

Still got a variable squealing from the front O/S wheel but can't detect any play in it, I'm going to try fiddling with the caliper to see if it's sticking or the pins have seized.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Mystery solved - although the discs & pads were well within limits, due to the vehicle standing for 2 years the pad backing had actually started to corrode and force the friction material away, which of course got worse the hotter it got.

New discs & pads and normal service is resumed :P

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