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1988 3.5efi wont start


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Hi Guys

RR 3.5efi 1988 model just wont start have fuel and spark

have tried all the the tests with multimeter from the tech archive still no joy

so could it be the coil or amp on dizzy as i am getting some unusal readings from these e.g from batt to coil the book says

meter should read zero but i have 12.8 volts turn on ignition this goes down to 00.2 as you crank it over it goes up to 3 volts

so any ideas

cheers tony

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this rangie is my dads one as he was driving home the main beam stopped working and then it started to misfire

got it home stopped it and tried to restart it but it just kept turning over and would not start

also headgasket on one side had gone so engine was stripped down and then rebuilt put it all back together and still not starting.

not sure if the dim dip pack can stop it from starting

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Battery to coil, with the ignition off it's dead so there is 12v difference between the battery positive and the dead coil. Ignition on, there should be zero (the slight resistance is the voltage drop in the coil wire), cranking the starter is drawing a flipload of amps so a few volts are being dropped between the battery +ve and the poor little coil on the way. In other words, it sounds fine.

When you say you have fuel - do you mean in the fuel pipe, coming out of the injectors, on the return line?

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I had a similar problem, it took me sodding ages to figure it out.. I checked fuel first.. Check fuel pump by taking off air filter, (this'll only work on flapper type fuel systems..) turn ignition on and just nuge the flap open by half an inch.. You should hear pump, if you don't somethings wrong - check wiring or pump itself. while your there - with ignition on, open throttle by hand, you should be able to hear injectors firing!

these are just a couple of things, i found my problem was with the Over-run fuel shut off system. The relay is mounted on passenger side inner wing, with a a vacuum sensor located either on engine block or on bulkhead. Clean up relay connectors and check it functions correctly - mine didn't and it took ages to figure out!

Google "efi flapper type diagnostic manual" and download the most usefull paperwork you will ever find on the internet. Alternativley, if yours is hot wire, google hotwire type..!

Good luck

Alec

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Battery to coil, with the ignition off it's dead so there is 12v difference between the battery positive and the dead coil. Ignition on, there should be zero (the slight resistance is the voltage drop in the coil wire), cranking the starter is drawing a flipload of amps so a few volts are being dropped between the battery +ve and the poor little coil on the way. In other words, it sounds fine.

When you say you have fuel - do you mean in the fuel pipe, coming out of the injectors, on the return line?

so coil ok then fuel on plugs

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I had a similar problem, it took me sodding ages to figure it out.. I checked fuel first.. Check fuel pump by taking off air filter, (this'll only work on flapper type fuel systems..) turn ignition on and just nuge the flap open by half an inch.. You should hear pump, if you don't somethings wrong - check wiring or pump itself. while your there - with ignition on, open throttle by hand, you should be able to hear injectors firing!

these are just a couple of things, i found my problem was with the Over-run fuel shut off system. The relay is mounted on passenger side inner wing, with a a vacuum sensor located either on engine block or on bulkhead. Clean up relay connectors and check it functions correctly - mine didn't and it took ages to figure out!

Google "efi flapper type diagnostic manual" and download the most usefull paperwork you will ever find on the internet. Alternativley, if yours is hot wire, google hotwire type..!

Good luck

Alec

not hearing injectors firing or click when moving throttle will check relay as for the manual got that great bit of kit

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Battery to coil, with the ignition off it's dead so there is 12v difference between the battery positive and the dead coil. Ignition on, there should be zero (the slight resistance is the voltage drop in the coil wire), cranking the starter is drawing a flipload of amps so a few volts are being dropped between the battery +ve and the poor little coil on the way. In other words, it sounds fine.

When you say you have fuel - do you mean in the fuel pipe, coming out of the injectors, on the return line?

so coil ok have fuel on plugs

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I had a similar problem, it took me sodding ages to figure it out.. I checked fuel first.. Check fuel pump by taking off air filter, (this'll only work on flapper type fuel systems..) turn ignition on and just nuge the flap open by half an inch.. You should hear pump, if you don't somethings wrong - check wiring or pump itself. while your there - with ignition on, open throttle by hand, you should be able to hear injectors firing!

Alec

as i said can hear pump but can not hear injectors firing

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If you can hear the pump running by opening the flap then there is nothing wrong with the overrun cut off switch or relay.

The flapper injectors are the low resistance type with 2/ 3 volt coils……. They are also very quiet so I doubt that you will hear them clicking. The resistor pack is very reliable in its self, however, the molex connector is a complete PITA and gives a lot of issues (normally misfire, or the failure of sparks on one bank). Check that the two brown/orange wires to the pack have a good 12 volts on them ……….. if the 12 volts is missing or reading low then change the EFI main supply relay.

If the fault coincided with the loss of other electrical functionality then I would be looking for a supply or earthing issue. :rolleyes:

If you have had the dizzy out, then make sure that your timing is not 180 degrees adrift. ;)

:)

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same prob with mine...

turned out that the bottom plug on the alarm wiggled loose so finally after many months ive got a working range rover :D

it shook loose afta a big drop when offroadin...(it turned the battery over)

now im back to driving again :D

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(it turned the battery over)

Why on earth wasn't it clamped down? :blink:

People wouldn't even get to drive our site without something as basic as that being sorted before scrutineeriing, and we'd probably go through the vehicle with a fine tooth comb if that was the level of basic maintenance.

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its not the best of conditions no...

inner wing rotten... so no point in using the ties... and i was just tryin it out...

its not goin offroadin again till welded up...unless you class towing caravans off a muddy field as offroading...

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lol

its a pretty flat field...3.5v8 auto...meaty tires... 5 odd ton strapped to a s2 crossmember welded to the chassis...its retirement compared to where ive taken it haha

important thing ive got it running :D

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