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Waxing Lyrical


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Now the 90 is in it's 4th year, I thought the chassis and axles needed some attention. The actual main chassis was in good nick still, but the axle seams and various scrape points were rusting. So I thought I'd treat and hopefully I won't have to touch it again for another 3 1/2 years at least! ;););)

I was dreading doing it after reading all the horror stories. I steared away from the normal waxoyl as I haven't been impressed by it when I've used it in can form. So I bought a kit of Dinitrol that came with a shultz air spray gun, 2x 1L cans of 3125 and 3 1L cans of 4941. I also bought 2 disposable paint suits, 4x rolls of masking tape and 4L white sprirt.

I spent the evening before cleaning it off, which wasn't too bad after spending a few hours cleaning the underside on Sunday after Slindon :rolleyes:

I used some decorators sheet that I already had to cover the drive, hubs, exhaust etc and used masking tape where I didn't want the spray to go..

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The spraying actually went fine. I found that a pressure of around 4.5 bar worked well. Only problems was that the two cans of 3125 wax only covered chassis and axles and so I didn't have enough to do inside of the chassis. So if you want to do inside of chassis and doors etc I'd buy an extra two cans of 3125.

As expected the 3 cans of 4941 was more than enough and the finish looks ok..

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Once off the stands I used a brush and the last remaining bit of 4941 to cover any bits I had missed.

All in all it took a day to mask/spray and then an hour to take off all of the masking the following morning. It worked out about 80 pounds for the Dinitrol kit (I used an ebay promotion to get 15% off) and about 20 pounds for the extra suits, white spirit etc.

I'll see how it lasts, but so far looks good and it was a lot less hassle than I thought it would be.

Cheers

Steve

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Excuse my lack of understanding... but what does Dinitrol dry like?

I'm looking to do something to my 04 as the landrover gunk is starting to peel. I hate waxoyl because every time you go under the vehicle you end up getting covered in it! Is it very similar to waxoyl?

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3125 is very similar to waxoyl in finish, but then you coat with 4941 which is better with no slime. It is a waxy film but it dries to a semi-hard finish. It's hard to say what the end finish is like as I suspect that it will harden more over the nextfew days. Maybe someone who has more experience will chime in.

Prep wasn't too bad. I just washed chassis and axles with soapy water and rinsed. I also I knocked the mud out of the normal trap spots. No more than that.

It took longer to longer to mask out than anything else. I covered all four hubs, exhaust, rear arms, fuel tank pipes, fuel filter pipe joins, shock and radius arm rubbers, and parking brake\transfer box.

Cheers

Steve

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where did you purchase the kit from....and what does the gun look like (as i've seen different ones)...

Rustbuster, rust.co.uk. I bought via ebay to get 15% off. This ebay offer runs until 2nd September IIRC, with code CRV2. I bought this kit here at £89 including shipping so, about £76 after discount..

Dinitrol kit

Spray gun is a Sealey one that works on all schultz type cans. It worked fine with no problems. The 4941 takes some cleaning out of gun, and I was glad that I bought enough white spirits.

They do a more expensive kit with a better gun, but as I say, the Sealey one was fine for me.

Cheers

Steve

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Also, I'm told Waxoyl does like a flame(if welding near Waxoyl, keep plenty of water and fire extinguishers handy). Does Dinitrol exhibit the same tendency for combusion ?

Great job by the way, it looks superb !

I have no idea, I just bought the kit and used it ;);) . I'm sure a quick look at the data sheets will let you know.

Thanks

Steve

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  • 2 years later...

I can assure everyone that Ziebart works. I have a 33 year old Fiat that still has no rust, and was Ziebart treated from new.

One other thing I can assure you all of, is that the chassis will rot from the inside out. My old '84 90 was treated to a new Galv chassis, and when I cut the old one up I found the bottom of each rail was paper thin, and each rail was full of about two buckets full of scale each!!

It didn't look too bad from the outside, but I replaced it cos it had a couple of patches already, and I got a good deal on the new one.

I've just Waxoyled every single cavity, box section, under seat box and hole on my new Puma. Luckily, I got it before it ever saw any water whatsoever, so the totally dry seams sucked the Waxoyl up through capillary action.

Just my 2p

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Has anyone any experience with POR 15? A friend used this on a old mk1 golf and had good results

If you look around the web you will find that POR-15 has a very mixed reputation, with some loving it and some suggesting it is Satan's paint. It was designed to go onto rusty metal and can fall off in sheets on smooth, unrusted steel. It is also bloody expensive, so a fail is a real pain. It is very toxic, so wear gloves and use it in a well ventilated space. I have used it with advantage on old metal fencing, but the one time i used it on a car it fell off.

My vehicle chassis paint of choice is a good red oxide undercoat and chassis black, with shutz on abraded surfaces.

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POR15 works well if, and only if, you do the complete prep process. They would like you to believe it can go on to rusted metal and if you watch their promotion they even think it can be used to repair holes in your floor pan but in reality you want to wire wheel the metal clean as much as possible, degrease it and then etch it. You then really need two coats of POR15 as it is thin enough that it tends to flow away from edges. Finally, you need to top coat it as POR15 is UV sensitive and will turn grey, losing its properties if left exposed to sunlight. When you add the cost of their cleaner and etcher and top coat it makes the paint coating even more expensive and really a bit of a skiddle.

If you slop it on like a conventional paint it will come off.

As I was building my 109 and modifying parts of my chassis progressively I didn't go the galvy route. I ended up spending some quality time with some wire wheels on the grinder, prep and paint, top coat followed by Tectyl 3M inside and their hardwax stuff outside and its been fine so far. In doing all that I can't say it turns out any cheaper than having a good existing chassis cleaned and galvied.

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  • 6 years later...

Hi guys,

read various of the posts on Waxoyling and have few questions:

-In his very useful thread  @Happyoldgit had 5L for the Black Waxoyl and the Standard Waxoyl - across the post there was no mention of where to use which one...

- Besides the clear cavities/spots where to the wax is there a guide that includes them all as some as not straight-forward e.g. remove the doors to access the bulk head cavity. 

- During the cleaning prior to the waxing it is advisable to put high-pressure water in the chassis holes as these are dirty with dry mud etc? or the water will be trapped inside and mess up the Waxoyl?

-Where do you recommend to buy a Schutz gun with a 1) long extension (mine is a 6x4 chassis) 2) 360 degrees mushroom head cavity spray pattern wand 3) the 45 degree underbody head? Something like this http://www.rust.co.uk/injection-wand-set/p413022 but that is suited to a normal Shutz gun

Thanks a lot!

Simone

 

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Do you have Rust Check in the UK?

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For my 110, the MOD solution was to paint, then repaint, then repaint the chassis in black. I have spent a great deal of time peeling and pressure washing the paint that will come off (as it wasn't well adhered in the first place). I am having it sprayed with Rust Check on a yearly basis. This is the same product that I use on the daily driver with good result. Cost is less than $100 per year.

Cheers,

Colin

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