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Spray Painted my series 2, help needed!


CJRH
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Hi, I sprayed my series 2 on Saturday, the first decent days weather for a long time! I’m no expert at spraying and it’s not a bad job but it would be fair to say that some parts are more shiny than others! I need to cut it back and polish it now, can I just use something like te-cut or should I flat it off with 1200 wet and dry and then use a proper polishing compound? I did get 4 coats on each panel so there is good coverage but I am worried about going through the new paint where the rivets are and where there are dents etc. I sprayed it with cellulose paint.

Cheers, Chris

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If the finish has bloomed (caused by cold air and gives the paint a milky finish to it), then T-cut will sort it. A slightly rough or dusted finish can be finished with 1200 wet/dry - used wet with water and washing-up liquid. Rinse off well and the finish would be matt. Then T-cut to get the shine.

Les.

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Thanks for that Les, will give it a go and see how it comes up.

Chris

be careful as most diy painters tend not to put enough paint on or get it so dry that flat and polishing is a no no...easier to have taken rivets out then put new on after.....if you flat and polish then use 1200 or 1500 as les said and compound/tut back up with a buffer....i use fast cut and machine polish but i done painting for the last 30 years...if you need more advice then pm me......always glad to help out if i can

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It's ok to remove rivets if you don't want to paint them/a panel to fall apart. There's also a possibility that you will damage the finish when you fit new rivets.

Steel panels, such as the front panel may need barrier paint to prevent a reaction between the old and new paints, then a suitable primer/undercoat, such as red oxide, then several coats of the final finish - bearing in mind that if you want a really good shine, you will polish off one coat in every three.

My front panel - the bottom was rotted away, so I had to repair it, then sand blast, red oxide, Hi-build primer,flatten down, then 5-coats of paint (ford azure blue in metallic)

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The wings, which are new, come with a yellowish coating, which is not etch primer, but an anti-oxidant coating, so it had to be keyed with 800 wet/dry, then etch primer, then Hi-build primer, then 5-coats of top coat, and some wrist action :P with T-cut. Note the satin-like finish that has to be polished away.

gallery_2_645_20461.jpg

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The finish wasn't very good, so I had to tidy it up with 1200 wet/dry and then polish.

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Doors done in the same way.

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A few things to remember -

Use barrier paint if you are overcoating old paint, unless you know for sure there will be no reaction (this doesn't always happen immediately, so a quick test is not definite.

Use etch primer on bare alloy - the new paint will pickle eventually.

Preperation is everything - you'll never get a decent finish on a bad surface.

Hi build primer is worth it's weight in gold - it's like a very thin filler.

When painting - patience is very important, so take your time and it will always be worth it.

Les.

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Thanks for the advice. I’m not after a concourse finish, just to make it better than it was which was hand painted very badly. I cut back the original hand paint which was cellulose with 400 and then 600. I’ve already cut back the van sides with 1200 and gone through the new paint in a few places, like where the spot welds are for the stiffening bar…… I’ll touch up those few bits with a touch up spray gun. To avoid this problem again I’ve ordered a sponge mop and I’ll try cutting / polishing the rest.

Chris

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been a professional spray painter for 30 years and the worse paint you can use is cellulose and synthetic. celly is mostly solvent which as les says can cause reaction if overcoated years later as solvent tend to search out weak areas etc....synthetic is awful to use as one mistake..ie runs then its the full panel recoated again as its not a blending paint. recoating it is tricky too as it needs to be fully cured then flatted then left a day or so as the paint needs to breathe...painters term.

i started off on celly synthetic...then belcryl.....then acrylic with rolls royces...tpa on jags.....early 80s was the 2 pack era which wasnt that good....moved to waterborne mid 90s.....i use waterborne constantly now and hi solids 2 pack....hi build primer is good as hardly any solvent.....if you derivit your landy then use a air riveter to put new ones in then no damage

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quick lesson in celly......mix 50/50 with top quality thinner such as 222 or 804 for solid colours.

mix 75/25 for metallics.....firt number is thinner and this is approximate ratio

hold gun around 6 inches from panel or as a rule place your outstretched hand to the panel and its the distance between little finger and thumb with spread apart.....overlap each pass by 50% to ensure even coverage and trigger off when you reach the end of panel....gun pressure be around 45 to 55 lbs psi at the gun..always use the best gun you can get.....devilbiss etc....screw volume out to show around 2 threads and fully open the spreader valve then turn in slightly...make sure the gun pattern is correct...your spraying is dry mate but that expected and you left scratches in the panel prior to painting lol....ensure you do not arc your arm when spraying keep it constantly with the panel....easy innit lol

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The mop / buffing pad came today, blue fome one for celulose paint. I managed to do one van side panel after work and it has come up very well, not a bad shine to it now! Only issue is I don't think they are meant to be used on an angle grinder, managed to destroy it :lol: Anyway, it was only cheap and lessen learnt :P There are a few scatches, dents in the body work, but as I said, not after concorse, just better than it was ;)

Chris

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I always use Celly, and that's what I used in the pictures above. I used 40% thinners and 50psi on the gun. It was all done with a cheapo MachineMart gun though. I don't often do spraying, so didn't want to fork out on fancy spray gear that would only get very occasional use. To be honest I use the 'put it on really thick and then spend ages polishing it to get a good finish'. I made a right pigs ear of the bonnet - it was like the skin of an orange/lemon when it was dry and I ended-up stripping it all back off and doing it again, because there was no way it was ever going to look half decent.

Prepped -

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Etch-

gallery_2_645_19058.jpg

Hi-build -

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Oh bugger - back to the beginning :(

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Les :)

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I always use Celly, and that's what I used in the pictures above. I used 40% thinners and 50psi on the gun. It was all done with a cheapo MachineMart gun though. I don't often do spraying, so didn't want to fork out on fancy spray gear that would only get very occasional use. To be honest I use the 'put it on really thick and then spend ages polishing it to get a good finish'. I made a right pigs ear of the bonnet - it was like the skin of an orange/lemon when it was dry and I ended-up stripping it all back off and doing it again, because there was no way it was ever going to look half decent.

Prepped -

gallery_2_645_28172.jpg

Etch-

gallery_2_645_19058.jpg

Hi-build -

gallery_2_645_8530.jpg

Oh bugger - back to the beginning :(

gallery_2_645_39151.jpg

Les :)

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ahhh les you mean solvent hi build like ici 777 or 888 primer.i was thinking 2 pack hi build. celly is great for diy men who like to tinkle on a weekend on their beloved motors......nothing wrong in getting your hands dirty etc.

its cheap and not too hazardous compared to 2 pack but very very flammable so be careful. even spirit wipe will ignite if you get a static spark rare but i seen it happen.....if anyone needs advice on painting then please get in touch then i will advise etc

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