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"Handed" Parabolics?


XRP669
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I've just acquired a Series III SWB diesel (1983) as a towing / utility vehicle :D after a break from Landy ownership :( forced by lack of parking space.

It's been fitted with parabolics quite recently by the looks of things, but still suffers from the infamous "Land-Rover lean" - there's a distinct list to starboard :ph34r: , when one would expect that on new springs there would be a lean the other way when parked up :huh: .

I just wondered if the parabolic springs come in handed pairs in the same way as the original multi-leaf springs (and I seem to recall that the diesel SWBs had a different set of front springs to the petrol ones in the original spec)?

Have searched the forum, but can't find an answer!

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i've fitted a pair of para's on mine, although its still a rolling chassis at themo so i couldnt tell you whether it leans or not, the springs weren't marked as l/r hand and they were marked with the same part no. so i assumed they were the same, however before fitting, i layed themone on top of the other and i put the spring with the greatest curve (although there was very little in it) on the drivers side to compensate for the weight of fuel tank, battery driver (as suggested by users of another forum). Also, if you look at the transmission, its kind offset to the right and there seems to be more weight on that side generally, so i assumed that the drivers side spring would need to "settle" more than passengers side and the bigger curve would allow this. Don't know how much that helps since they are already fitted to the vehicle, but you could try swapping the springs from side to side and see if it makes any difference.

Oh, and i think you're right, i think petrols/diesels did have different front springs, but parabolics always seem to be "pair of front springs for swb/lwb".

hope that helps

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Hi none of the ones i have seen are handed so i think it's unlikley.Have a look on The Rocky Mountain website, as i recall they suggest loosening all the spring shackle bolts, jacking the vehicle to correct (or slightly overcorrect) the lean and then tightening them.Then when you let the jack down Bob your uncle.Well worth a try at least.

Hope this helps Bill. :)

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Hi none of the ones i have seen are handed so i think it's unlikley.Have a look on The Rocky Mountain website, as i recall they suggest loosening all the spring shackle bolts, jacking the vehicle to correct (or slightly overcorrect) the lean and then tightening them.Then when you let the jack down Bob your uncle.Well worth a try at least.

Hope this helps Bill. :)

Thanks - plan of campaign involves a new rear 1/4 chassis in fairly short order, so I was planning to do a bit of loosening and relevelling then...

The good news is that the "horribly noisy rear diff" that the (very honest) vendor told me about was, as I suspected from the description, actually the exhaust knocking on the chassis at certain revs... :D

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I fitted para's to mine in the summer and I honestly wish I had'nt. I only did it because I had broken leaves that would've failed an mot, but it has never stood straight since, and I mean 3" up on the n/s rear and an inch or 2 at the front. Doesnt sound like much, but it really looks wonky. I tried all the advice, weighing it down, loosening then tightening the shackles, driving over rough ground, it will not settle. The springs were not the most expensive, but they were the only ones available anywhere for the time slot I had to fit them. They were not handed, I think the lesson as with all things Landy is not to listen to the hype and keep it simple, as has made them so succesful so far. Now I drive it with a load of paving slabs on one side to level it out, and plan to fit traditional leaf springs at the back when time allows.

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  • 11 years later...

I had the same issue with my 88" 1963 short wheel base. 

The lean started when I changed the rear cross member with extended chassis sections .. Measured /cut  and re-welded as per job. Leaned after🤔

I have cured my lean by in un-doing the welds bottom and sides leaving top welded. On offside rear chassis.. Putting jack between axele and bump stop... Jacking up until chassis spring mounting  are half inch closer together than other side... Then re-weld.. Squared mine up nicely.... Hope this helps.. 

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