Sam Coombes Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 OK, whilst the landy was in the garage, I asked them to do a pre MOT check. Here's a list of work which needs doing, they've priced it at £800 - £1000. *Front Radius Arm Bushes *Front discs and pads *Brake pipe corroded on rear axle *Damp brake backplate on rear brakes (?) **Rear brake pinion seal needs replacing *Wheel bearings need adjusting Headlight refelctors corroded The * items are what I need help with - are they fairly simple DIY jobs or am I best to pay the money for the garage to do it? If DIY, which parts should I order from paddocks as I need to sort this asap. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Contact Les Henson on here. He does Land Rover repairs and is not too far from you in Swindon. Might save you a few pounds too. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 all fairly simple really, most (if not all) is detailed in the tech section on here. save yourself a fortune and do it yourself, if you get stuck then there are plenty of people around on here who can advise/lend a hand if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwcooper Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 all fairly easy jobs best thing is too get a haynes manual if you havent already got one. The one you might struggle with are the front radius arm bushes as i expect they are the originals and proberly fairly well stuck in, so you may need a press. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 They obviously don't know much about Land Rovers if they think the rear brakes have pinion seals in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Sounds like about £100 worth of parts - depending on where you shop. Nothing in there is rocket science, start by looking in the tech archive. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pist0nbr0ke Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Afternoon!! It may be a good idea rather than re fitting standard bushes, is to get yourself a poly bush kit and start at the front of the car. This is easy to do: Jack up the vehicle and remove the radius arm. Burn out the rubber from the bush and remove. Get a hacksaw and cut a notch out of the outer part of the bush knock out with a hammer press in new bush witha bench vice Get yourself the Haynes book of myths and legends, that will show you how to change the disks and pads. Also the rear brake slave cylinders (sounds like to me). Two new headlights can be bought from paddocks, either sealed beam or halogen upgrade. Any additional lights fitted are exemp from the mot and don't need to be touched eg two hanging off the A bar or, like mine four across the top of the windscreen. The brake pipe to the rear: you can disconnect this and take it down to your local motors factors and they can normally make one up for you. Dont forget to get a friend to help you rebleed the brakes after!! The book of legends will tell you about the wheel bearings and how to adjust them, you might need a hub spanner though £6! When you take it for a mot, they cannot test the breaks like a normal car. Because of the 4x4 drive it wont go on the rollers, same with testing the handbrake! The foot brake he will take it for a drive and do an emergency stop and use a peice of kit called a decellerometer in the footwell. The habdbrake is checked by trying to turn it by had. mot are great arnt they!!! Sorry about the freefall reply, hope this helps Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 cheers lads, i'm willing to give as much of it a go as possible. I cannot find the radius arm bushes on the paddocks site though? Also can the "rear brake pipe along the axle" be bought from paddocks ready to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 just to reiterate the above, that list is 100% DIY, you can save yourself a packet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 thanks Luke, i intend to DIY, i'm jsut struggling to find all the parts I need on the paddocks site. Also, I've checked with the garage, they mean the pinion seal on the diff is leaking badly. Thanks Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Whats the point of a pre mot check? Just send it then do the jobs it fails on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 pinion seal is not an MOT point. as already stated, sealed beam lights are the cheap option, halogen make for a worthy upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwcooper Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 If you do decide to use urethane bushes make sure you go for good quality like super pro or Polybush, others dont seem to last 5 secs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Sam, Would definitely be worth a trip to Pete at Stunning Services - just down the road from you in Bournemouth. What you've quoted doesn't sound like £800 - £1k by a long shot. Pete charges £25 ph, and I often help out there in the evenings / weekends - my time is free! I see your dodgy drop arm ball joint isn't on the list - I take it you got that sorted? Give me a shout if you book it in and I'll try and be available. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 cheers Dave, will do. Got drop arm sorted at long last, and got most of the play out of the steering so happy about that if nothing else!! Just priced up the parts, everything excluding the brake pipe is £156 from paddocks which is ok. Having looked at the FAQs and in the manuals, the only thing I'm not comfortable with is the brake pipe, which I spose I could just get the MOT garage to change and it shouldn't cost too much. I'd like to save as much as possible!! Will let you know how I get on once the parts arrive. Cheers again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J@mes Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Whats the point of a pre mot check? Just send it then do the jobs it fails on. not a lot of good if its a daily driver or regularly used. at least with a pre check, you know its going to fail and can do something about it whilst still having a ticket to drive with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 at least with a pre check, you know its going to fail and can do something about it whilst still having a ticket to drive with! that's why I had mine done - gives me a week to get it sorted now, I knew there would be something that it would fail on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 not a lot of good if its a daily driver or regularly used. at least with a pre check, you know its going to fail and can do something about it whilst still having a ticket to drive with! You can have the MOT done upto a month before the old one expires, so if it fails you still have 4 weeks to get it sorted. If it passes, the new MOT wont start untill the old one expires, so you don't lose out. We have vehicles in for testing that have been pre-checked at other (non mot) garages, and we still find things to fail them on. Pre-check, waste of money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I was of the understanding that if a vehicle fails an MOT and you have to take it away to do the repairs that you would then have to pay again for the retest? So as long as the Premot check cost less than an MOT then you are still up on the deal? All of the jobs mentioned are straight forward spanner jobs- £1000... what a joke!- any problems just post up and we will help you through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted September 2, 2008 Author Share Posted September 2, 2008 thanks, what could "Damp brake backplate on rear brakes" be caused by? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 thanks,what could "Damp brake backplate on rear brakes" be caused by? Leaking hub seal- leaking EP90 from the axle on to the back plate OR Leaking brake cylinder- leaking brake fluid on to the back plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I was of the understanding that if a vehicle fails an MOT and you have to take it away to do the repairs that you would then have to pay again for the retest? When my disco failed on a couple of minor items, they gave me two weeks to bring it back for a free retest, if it went over 2 weeks then I had to pay again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 I was of the understanding that if a vehicle fails an MOT and you have to take it away to do the repairs that you would then have to pay again for the retest? So as long as the Premot check cost less than an MOT then you are still up on the deal?All of the jobs mentioned are straight forward spanner jobs- £1000... what a joke!- any problems just post up and we will help you through. For certain minor items, if the vehicle is brought back by the end of the following day it's free. Anything else, you have up to 10 days and it's a partial re-test, half fee. After ten days, full re-test full fee. We charge £65 hour + vat for labour. About average for a medium sized garage in this area. So if you said a pre-test, an hour £76. Then a test, £53.10 That's £129.10 Or..Test £53.10 if it passes, or fails on minor items eligible for a free re-test. £53.10 +re-test 1/2 fee £26.55 = £79.65 if it fails and you fix it within ten days. If you can't fix it in 10 days, 2x full tests =£106.20. If you take it to a small garage with lower labour rates the the equation may work out different. But, the only person who can do a pre-test and guarantee it will or wont pass, is the tester that will do the real test, so just let them do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Sam, everything on that list you can do yourself quite easily. Download a copy of Rave or buy a haynes manual and have fun learning how to these jobs, you'll be doing many of them again in the future Once done you can check them regularly and make them part of your routine. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pist0nbr0ke Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I would suspect the rear brake slave cylinder weeping? Take the drum off and all will become clear. have you been using any brake fluid? neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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