Exmoor Beast Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Just been tryng to start the S3. Battery on charge all night and says its at 13V by my meter but it won't turn the damn thing over. So i got the 110 over and popped the jump leads on , turned over but very slowly. I kept trying like a prat and then wondered why I have a huge burn blister on my hand when I came to remove the jump leads! DOH!! Ran out of time so back again now for a meeting in a few minutes... Should I go for a jump start behind the 110 next? or buy some decent jump leads or swap the battery from the 110 to start it? on the upside someone stopped me and gave me a job whilst I was there messing about Will B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Connect a battery that's known to be good, check all connections, if it's still slow, then the starter motor is pants. Rob the missus of around £85 and go get a nice new blingy one. You can then brush up on your Anglo Saxon while you try fit the thing! Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 There are ups ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 DON'T TRY AGAIN YET!!!! Sounds more like either the starter is shot and drawing too much current, or there is something mechanically seized (or even nipped-up) within the engine, either bores, big ends or something else. By trying to jump it from a known good vehicle you have proven it is not a battery issue (hence the stupidly hot jump leads due to heavy current draw) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Sounds like a starter issue. I know my IIa was very reluctant to start untill I fiddled with the starter. Check the main connection to the back of the solenoid - If this is loose, and not making much contact, then it will be slow under load. Other than that, you will have to take the starter off. Once it is off, put 12V accross it, and see if it will spin without load. If it will spin freely, then it is probably an engine issue, otherwise you will need either a new starter, or at a very minimum to replace the brushes and clean the contact surface (can see it in my head, but I can't remember it's name!). Sounds like more fun with series ownership! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Don't S3's come with a starting handle? Plugs out, crank it over to get the oil pressure light out then plugs back in to fire it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 tow it down the road with the 100 and bump it, make sure someone is in the series though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 By trying to jump it from a known good vehicle you have proven it is not a battery issue I thought jumping across a bad battery with a good one gave the same effect as a bad battery? Also skinny jump cables will overheat anyway. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lighthouse_jim Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Check the jump leads are good. I had a set where the cable corroded where it joined the clamp. That also resulted in a hot jump lead and no starting power. I took the cable off and remade the joint and BINGO, it worked! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I thought jumping across a bad battery with a good one gave the same effect as a bad battery?Also skinny jump cables will overheat anyway. Les. unless it was a short-circuited battery, which since it held a charge confirmed that this was not the case, the support vehicle with it's good battery and good charging system, would mask the affects of a bad battery on the donar vehicle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 just get the starter handle and hand crank it. Done it several times, works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 in the absence of a starting handle or a decent set of Jump leads i will swap batterys first after cleaning up the starter connections. there was plenty of oil in it whilst laid up so hopefully nothing is binding within. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPR Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Flywheel on the starter motor often rusts up seizes up. Try hitting the casing with a smallish hammer a few times. Sometimes it frees up the wheel and away you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 As a Defender owner with bolted-in seats, I'm gaining more and more respect for the 'tow it and start it' method since jump lead access is such a pain. It's only cost two back doors so far (well, the same one twice actually, but the second time we were towing backwards and he couldn't see because of the aluminium rivetted over where the back window broke first time...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpb Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 As a Defender owner with bolted-in seats, I'm gaining more and more respect for the 'tow it and start it' method since jump lead access is such a pain. It's only cost two back doors so far (well, the same one twice actually, but the second time we were towing backwards and he couldn't see because of the aluminium rivetted over where the back window broke first time...) Why not fit one of the large power connectors http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/V...l/battisol.html to the bulkhead. Makes jump starting easyer as you dont have to take the seat out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 in the absence of a starting handle or a decent set of Jump leads i will swap batterys first after cleaning up the starter connections.there was plenty of oil in it whilst laid up so hopefully nothing is binding within. Will Will, if it has been laid up have you checked all of the earths? might have a corroded engine to chassis earth? I can almost guarantee an earth or battery terminal will always give trouble on a Land Rover........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I presume you haven't connected both jump leads to the terminals on the S3 battery? If you have, try changing it so that the -ve is connected to the S3s engine block, and the +ve is connected to the battery terminal. Always works best that way. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Simpkins Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 So... Have you got it started yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 No, not yet, too wet yesterday so I did some paying work instead Busy today as well Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted January 24, 2006 Author Share Posted January 24, 2006 I think its narrowed down to the starter the + connection at the starter seems a bit wobbly for want of a better word, not a good sign I would think. It does turn the engine but only very slowly and it does cook the wiring. Used a starting handle to turn the engine over so its not seized or even binding from the feel of it. As soon as I can find some help I can trust I will have a go at Bump starting it I think Will B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Simpkins Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 I think its narrowed down to the starter the + connection at the starter seems a bit wobbly for want of a better word, not a good sign I would think. It does turn the engine but only very slowly and it does cook the wiring.Used a starting handle to turn the engine over so its not seized or even binding from the feel of it. As soon as I can find some help I can trust I will have a go at Bump starting it I think Will B) If it turns ok with the starting handle, why not trying starting it that way?, as others have suggested. Have you checked all the wiring in the starting circuit. I had problems with my Series, and it turned out to the crimp connector on the battery + terminal. I had similar symptoms to what you've described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted January 24, 2006 Author Share Posted January 24, 2006 If it turns ok with the starting handle, why not trying starting it that way?, as others have suggested.Have you checked all the wiring in the starting circuit. I had problems with my Series, and it turned out to the crimp connector on the battery + terminal. I had similar symptoms to what you've described. I have cleaned up every terminal I can see thats relevant to no avail. I borrowed the handle off a bloke I know vaguely as he was passing and gave it straight back, I thought it would be hopeless with a completely dead battery???? maybe not. Either way its a damn sight easier to tow it than huff and puff Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrage Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 Why not fit one of the large power connectors http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/V...l/battisol.html to the bulkhead. Makes jump starting easyer as you dont have to take the seat out. Although it'll not solve the problems u r having starting i'd also reccomend these battery connectors! I'm in the process of installing them on all the company vehicles and engine driven equipment on the airport, as the equipments always flat when you need it! Typically snow clearance equipment! a long lead with plugs on each end can charge between 2 socketed vehicles with no chance of connecting them wrongly or them slipping off the terminals and shorting on metal work. Ive also made up a crocodile clip converter for one end so i can charge vehicles that don't have sockets. slightly OT but never mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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