Retroanaconda Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Right, so today I installed Central Locking in my 90, and I thought I'd share with you guys the process I took. So this is how I did it: The kit I bought was off that well-known auction site, cost me £35 delivered from Germany, and consists of the following: - 2 x Keyfobs (with blank keys) - Remote control 'brain' unit - Mounting brackets - Actuator linkages - Wiring loom (!) - 4 x Actuators First job is to get the door cards off, and reel at the rusty mess that lies beneath (in my case ) Then one must (through trial and error) find the best position for the actuator. Luckily the position shown below happens to be perfect, the actuator clears the window by around 1/8", spot on Once happy with positioning, drill holes for and mount the actuator with the bracket. Notice the bend I put in, this becomes even more important later on... I put a bend in the linkage rod as well, to match with the orientation of the rod it's connecting to. The block screws down with the three screws shown. At this point I should note that I hooked up the brain unit and did a dummy run, to make sure the actuator would work in the orientation I had placed it in. It did, so on we go. The opposite door is (obviously) a mirror image of the other one in terms of general placement, but I made it bespoke just to be sure. Drivers door completed setup (notice awful rust again ) Cue expletives. It seems my bend was not in the right place (see above). The door card fouls it where it is recessed. A bit of re-bending on each side with the pliers and it fits okay again. After that it's just a case of figuring out the wiring loom. My kit had wiring for four actuators, so I had some extra wire to lose, which I did behind the dashboard trim. The wires in the doors are wrapped in leccy tape, then fed out below the check linkages. They then run under the dash (in a handy channel), and behind the fusebox cover. From there they go to the brain unit, which is stuck to the underside of the passenger footwell. The wiring is all biased to the passenger side, that is to say that the wires are shorter that side, so it had to be in that footwell for the passenger door wires to reach. Other kits may differ obviously. This placement meant I had to extend the live feed to the unit, which I did by splicing in some wire of the same gauge (leaving the fuse as close to the battery as possible), and running this from the battery box, under the transmission tunnel trim, and into the fusebox area. It's earthed on the fusebox plate. I'm going to take the key blanks to the local key place, and see if they can cut the truck's ignition key pattern into them, would let me lose another key off my keyring. Hope that is of use to anyone planning something similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patch1 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I did the same to my defender about two years ago. Remote alarm with central locking the best thing I ever did. Mine turned out to be more complicated, the remote part was the alarm, then into an interface box then into the central locking module. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Keir Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 hummm might do this to my landrover soon would be much more handy to unlock all doors at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patch1 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Good for when its chuking it down with rain to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Very interesting. What did you do with the back door? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Didn't attempt that, couldn't see any way of using the actuator to operate the lock. I suppose I could attatch the linkage to the little lock tab, but I'll have to think about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisp Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Didn't attempt that, couldn't see any way of using the actuator to operate the lock.I suppose I could attatch the linkage to the little lock tab, but I'll have to think about it. What a great post - its not a job i need now but fantastic to put all including expletives - Is there any post that have the same for rubbing down and prpping a 90 for brush painting - i do not know where to sart - what to remove what to mask etc and what to use to prep - any suggestions PM or reply cheers chrisp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Useful one for the Tech Archive methinks. Well done James. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Warman Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 This is very interesting. We have central locking on our other car and the Wife is always trying to open the doors before I've got round to unlocking them. I might have to invest in some of these. Looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patch1 Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I only ever got around to doing the driver and pasenger door on my truck but I have got the kit for doing the rear door from a comany off the web that also do after market leci windows. Its abit of a job as you have to drill the rear lock open and weld a braket on the little black leaver on the inside. My thort (one day) would be to use a TD5 rear door as the trim panel is designed for it. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacky Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I only ever got around to doing the driver and pasenger door on my truck but I have got the kit for doing the rear door from a comany off the web that also do after market leci windows. Its abit of a job as you have to drill the rear lock open and weld a braket on the little black leaver on the inside.My thort (one day) would be to use a TD5 rear door as the trim panel is designed for it. Mark Ii have also done this and used the standard locking mechanism for the rear door, i drilled out the little tab that locks door and fabricate a bit of stiff wire to operate it i will take some photo and post!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Chua Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 yes, you can fit that on the rear door. you need a strip of metal with round holes (how do i describe them?) they are the ones used when you wrap around logs and the round holes allow for large nails to be hammered in when building a log bridge. then link that to the push rod and then to the lock pump. done. it's almost diagonal across the rear door. works well for me. so the pump actually pushes the rod to push that metal strip with round holes which is hooked to the rear door lock and slides is up or down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Good post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacky Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 here picture of how my rear door lock works it looks crude but does the job!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkw90 Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Very good I think its a job i may have to do . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Definitely food for thought here..... I just need to make my locking mechanism's work smoothly before I can have a go at this.... Will have a look around on Eblag though... Great post, thanks for the inspiration. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I bought my kit from maplin. Doesn't have wireless control but has 4 solenoids for 21.99 http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=12303 Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 So what do I need to fit remote central locking to my 2004 Defender 110? It has the LR alarm, operated by a button which looks the same as the remote central locking buttons on better spec'd Defenders. Is it just a case of adding actuators and plugging them into something existing? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I've requested a link to this thread goes in the tech archive. nice job Retro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 you'd need to activate the CDL on the alarm unit and then see if it's providing an output on pins 3&2 on connector 57. see attached image. If so then yes, your existing fob will power the door solenoids. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 here picture of how my rear door lock works it looks crude but does the job!! That's what I tried today, but I couldn't find any metal to bolt my mounts too...it was all rusted away One to try when I get a new rear door I think Only problem I found was getting the linear motion of the actuator to operate the curved path of the locking tab. Some clever trickery with linkage rod bends, or a rotary bracket may be required. Time will tell. On that note, does anyone with factory fitted central locking on the rear door have a photo of how LR did it themselves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 So what do I need to fit remote central locking to my 2004 Defender 110? It has the LR alarm, operated by a button which looks the same as the remote central locking buttons on better spec'd Defenders. Is it just a case of adding actuators and plugging them into something existing?Chris Give these guys a call Clicky. I bought an entire CDL system with remote controls. Not the cheapest but excellent OEM quality. The remote ECU can also integrate with their immobilser and alarm systems. You could just add the locking motors to your remote system. Fitting to early lift handle doors is not so easy as the door trim leaves far less room for the gubbins. I also did the back door, again the early type lock. I took the lock apart and modified to suit. Alas I don't have any pictures behind the trim panel or inside the lock. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legion Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Mickeyw Will these kits link in with the Defender alarm/immobiliser ECU? Do not want to be using two fobs!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Mickeyw Will these kits link in with the Defender alarm/immobiliser ECU? Do not want to be using two fobs!! Legion, See post in the other thread - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65009&view=findpost&p=561728 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BENGUN Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 Hi all, Newbie to the forum here and already need advice!! Ive read some of the fitting advice on the forum and now Im fitting central locking to my 99 td5 myself, fitting is not a problem,wiring it up is! where can i wire up to? do i go straight from the battery for power or behind fuse panel or go from ECU? could it be matched up to my immobiliser key fob? This is my first td5 and ive not been used to my landy having a brain!!! Ha Ha.. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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