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Dislocation / Relocation Cones


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Jon W made a valid point today on me plans and disclocation cones.....

rather then me make them

(yeah out of 8mm plate - I'll get it in before someone else :angry: )

they are not too expensive maybe, so :

Who makes them ??

Any Pictures

Have you got them front and back - are they different ?

Where were they from

And how much were they

Which ones would you recomend / from who - and why ?

Nige :ph34r:

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Nige,

good luck but check out RedIbex's site for pics inc secondary springs. He may even have just that sort of thing kicking round the garage from his earlier attempts.

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Cheapest is just a piece of gaspipe from 4 to 3 inch. My cones are now even certified DOT approved ;)

(can send pictures if you like...)

Another interesting question is, why did Nigel (Gon2Far) mount his springs on the chassis and not on the axle like usual. (forgot to ask him that on billing <_< )

Cheers Bowy

prikbord.jpg

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Bowy,

From Gon2fars site....

Our Reverse Dislocation System works in the oposite way to most cones now on the market. The dislocation cone is bolted to the axle and the spring is retained at the top mount on the chassis. This makes for a much more natural arrangement as the spring now stays inline with the chassis rather than straining to move out to to one side as it attempts to stay in line with the axle. The result of this natural movement is that we can use a much smaller cone and still gurantee that the spring re-seats perfectly every time.

One extra benifit of this arrangement is that there are none of the anoying twangs and boings that are generaly associated with ordinary cone setups. The Reverse dislocation System just re-seats quietly and without fuss every time.

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Interesting post Nige,

last night I drew/cut out the templates for the cones I'm making.......out of 4mm plate :ph34r:

But now checking out the link to Gon2Far, I'm now tempted to alter my plans. His reasoning makes sense, so why not ?

Out of curiosity Nige, how long were the cones going to be? I drew mine out to 15 cm long, 12 cm wide.

Todd.

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Interesting post Nige,

last night I drew/cut out the templates for the cones I'm making.......out of 4mm plate :ph34r:

But now checking out the link to Gon2Far, I'm now tempted to alter my plans. His reasoning makes sense, so why not ?

Out of curiosity Nige, how long were the cones going to be? I drew mine out to 15 cm long, 12 cm wide.

Todd.

My "Design was the same width, but depth was 30mm less than the length of the coils fully compressed between the bump stop to axle clearance, that way it cannot get smacked front underneath at full rebound...I have seen some that are / were :lol: too long, all mullered at the lip, and no it wasn't the srping hitting them, twas the axle itself !

Nige

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I've just fitted a pair of Devon4x4 cones that I picked up at Billing.... nice and cheap! :D

A friend of mine has gone and got himself some gone2far lower mount cones. Hopefully he'll be coming out to play this weekend, cos I'd really like to see/hear the difference in performance. :)

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I've just fitted a pair of Devon4x4 cones that I picked up at Billing.... nice and cheap! :D

A friend of mine has gone and got himself some gone2far lower mount cones. Hopefully he'll be coming out to play this weekend, cos I'd really like to see/hear the difference in performance.  :)

So no more poking around with sticks then eh Dan ;):lol:

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Gwyn lewis makes a couple of designs of dislocatrion cones wich I think work very well.

One of gwyns designs has a hook incorporated into its base which grabs the last coil of the spring if you start going for some extreeme articulation.

They are fitted to my truck so come and have a look at Tony's.

If you wand I can bring a spare set down with me.

Gwyn's design has a surprizingly simple design to allow you to hold the spring to the chassis when you need to lift a wheel in the air (to change it for example) whilst using a hi lift style jack.

I have looked at tyhe gone to far design and I am impressed with their their thinking appart from how you deliberately lift the axle up with a high lift.

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I have looked at tyhe gone to far design and I am impressed with their their thinking appart from how you deliberately lift the axle up with a high lift.

Same problem that most of the systems have. IIRC Scap iron included chassis mounted straps with their extreme kit so you could strap the axle to the chassis if you wanted to jack.

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Hmmmmmmm

Not as many replies / pics as I had hoped....

I have ruled out cones on the axle rather then the chassis mount, I think that on extreme axle movement winching in the deep mud etc a spring just "hanging" is most probably going to get ripped out / off, so cones for me will be the twang bank top mounted ones...

Anyone have views, and I'm still stuck as to if to make or buy, can't seem to find pics of many ?

Nige

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Gwyn's design has a surprizingly simple design to allow you to hold the spring to the chassis when you need to lift a wheel in the air (to change it for example) whilst using a hi lift style jack.

You don't have to jack it up too far!!! ;)

beforeside.jpg

afterside.jpg

Here's the cones on the bottom..

rearsprings.jpg

So Nige, how come it's more likely to get ripped out attached to top than bottom??

Cheers

Steve

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Hmmmmmmm

Not as many replies / pics as I had hoped....

I have ruled out cones on the axle rather then the chassis mount, I think that on extreme axle movement winching in the deep mud etc a spring just "hanging" is most probably going to get ripped out / off, so cones for me will be the twang bank top mounted ones...

Anyone have views, and I'm still stuck as to if to make or buy, can't seem to find pics of many ?

Nige

Nige as Steves pic shows the springs don't leave the cones so they won't be ripped off.

D44 ones are stainless steel and I had to grind the top of the cone when I fitted mine to get a snug fit.

Since changing my rear springs the twanging is one hell of a lot louder, so much I'm considering retaining the springs again.

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white90 said :

"Since changing my rear springs the twanging is one hell of a lot louder, so much I'm considering retaining the springs again."

Just wondering, what if you used some of the liquid rubber, like you can buy in a can for screw drivers and such. Put a generous coating on the cone and at the base of it, would that stop the clanging? or at least reduce it ?

Todd.

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Two bits of bar bolted together or a couple of jubilee clips should do it.

Downside of using cones on the axles is they will fill up with mud/stones/sh!te any or all of which can be irritating.

Regarding unsprung weight that's not a big issue for low speed off roading. In fact quite the opposite if you take a look at the rock buggies. Keeping the spring attached to the axle would help to generate more downforce/traction when disloated that having it dangling from the vehicle.

Anyone running water in their tyres?

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