Disco TD5 PAS Box Replacement

[white90]

I thought this might be very difficult to do in comparison to earlier Disco's/Defenders/Rangys - mainly because you can't really see the PAS box from under the bonnet, and not a great deal of it from underneath either.

Once plastic panels/pipes are removed or moved, then it's much the same as any other PAS box, although there are a few difficulties to overcome.

Few special tools needed - torx sockets and drivers, breaker bar (or a length of pipe on a ratchet/T-bar), and a 40mm socket.

Also 6,8,10,13,18,24, and 27mm sockets, assorted extension bars, 11mm,24mm spanners, axle stand, jack, hammer, old screwdriver/chisel, philips screwdriver, Zip ties (cable ties), some 4-6mm I/D pipe, a container for the old fluid, and some ATF.

Anyway - on with it.

Vehicle is an 04 plate auto Disco TD5 with 59k miles on the clock'

PAS leak fixes have failed, and fluid is still leaking from the shaft lower seal.

Set the steering in the straight ahead position and remove the ignition key so that it locks in place.

Open the bonnet, remove the battery cover - turn the catch at the front 90-deg, lift the front a small amount, then release the two catches at the rear and remove the cover.

Disconnect both battery terminals, move the cables out of the way, then undo and remove the 10mm nuts that hold the battery clamp top plate. The battery will then lift out. Remove the bottle jack.

Remove the 4 x 13mm bolts in the bottom of the battery box.

Undo the 10mm nut that retains the centre of the main earth cable - replace the nut, leaving the other wire in place.

Remove the single philips screw that hold the ECU to the side of the battery casing.

The ECU will then lift out of the housing with all wires still connected. Lift it and turn it over and it will then rest back as shown. Do not apply any force to the ECU or wiring. It will move out of the way quite easily - if it doesn't, then you are doing something wrong.

Two more 13mm bolts holding the battery box in place - remove them, unclip the two coolant bypass hoses on the outer edge, then lift the battery box out. It won't come out cleanly - it catches on the wing channel and the radiator bracket, but it's flexible and will come out.

You can now see most of the PAS box.

Engine top cover next - one 13mm bolt on the drivers side, and two on the opposite side. Remove them, lift the front a small amount to clear the radiatop cover, then forwards and up.

Remove the intercooler hose (2 x 6mm jubilee clips)

Using zip ties, tie the various pipes out of the way of the PAS box. The battery positive cable will tuck away by the header tank.

Now to get underneath.

Apply the handbrake, slacken the wheel nuts on the drivers side wheel (27mm).

Raise the vehicle up as far as you can get it (put the jack under the lowest part of the hockey stick)

Place an axle stand under the chassis rail - just forward of the radius arm bracket is good. Remove the road wheel and keep it nearby - you can stand on it to make it easier to reach inside the engine bay.

You will now see the 4 x 15mm bolts that hold the PAS box the inside of the chassis rail.

Lower the jack until the vehicle rests on the axle stand, then keep lowering until the suspension is almost at it's extended limit. The anti roll bar will move downwards as the axle drops - this will give you more room to ge