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My new 1965 S2a 88


Marco

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Hi, I'm trying to trace down a bit of the history of my new 1965 S2a 88 Landy (see this post: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=32580) The last owner(s) has/have preparing it for selling it off and there is a lot of work to be done to restore it into it's former glory. On a distance the vehicle looks fine and so is the drive train (except a rattle from the clutch while driving). But underneath somebody has been doing a hearthless welding job, patching & painting cutting of the rear tub and welding it back skew etc. At this stage I'm not yet sure if I can save the chassis or that it will need a replacement. The bulkhead can be restored but will need a lot of welding & removal of previous plating jobs. Paint will have to be stripped off (it has 4 layers). I do plan to get the Landy back on the road next summer and drive is as a convertible / soft top. Any info on this vehicle welcome.

Cheers

Marco

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Lovely bit of welding.......... :(

Les.

i thpought my welding was questionable!

the last series i welded up i replaced all the rear end with 3mm thick plate! never again, it took ages, cutting parts out and welding em in, buy a new chassis the end result will be alot nicer imo! unless your Ken Wheelright of course.

i must say i love the pastle green tho!

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As you guys like the welding job.... some more pictures!

Might go for a replacement chassis but will depend on total costs. Fixing this one (materials only) will probably cost me 200 Pounds, front sections, rear x-member + extensions and some 2mm strips/sheeting. A new frame + collection/shipping will cost me +/- 1000-1200 Pounds I guess. But that will save me a lot of time...

My intention is to use this Landy during the summer only and park it inside so if I do repair the chassis it will last too.

Nice pick-up!

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Land Rover Light Green (LR005) is the best colour IMHO...

here's the only reasonable picture of mine I can find:

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[anorak mode on]

Are you sure it is a IIa?

I know the C suffix registration says 1964/65 but the steering wheel is wrong and the twin wiper motors are also from an earlier Series 2 truck. I know it is possible to have swapped these from an earlier truck, but I would be interested to see the number off the VIN plate to date it properly.

[/anorak mode]

incidentally, I am having a wrong day, so please feel free to ignore me!

Mark

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Are you sure it is a IIa?

I know the C suffix registration says 1964/65 but the steering wheel is wrong and the twin wiper motors are also from an earlier Series 2 truck. I know it is possible to have swapped these from an earlier truck, but I would be interested to see the number off the VIN plate to date it properly.

Mark

The VIN is 24117795B, based on CalVIN, the Land Rover VIN CALculator it should match... Might be one of the last 2a vehicles with the old dash & wipers before they switched over to the newer 2a? VIN plate screws on the bulkhead look original LR.

24117795B

241 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA

Body type: Basic or Station wagon

Wheel base: 88in

Engine: petrol

Model years: 1962-1971

Destination: Home market, right-hand drive (RHD)

17795 Serial number

B Design: One significant design modification

Suffix used from March 1963 till April 1966

I like the Pastel Green and will keep it that shade. The original colour of this vehicle is however Bronze Green.

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Struth, that welding is a bit awful. I have to say I've seen a hell of a lot worse though.

Les.

Yep it can be much worse, this one looks like it's still repairable. I will probably give it a try with two new front legs and a rear x-member with extensions + replacing the previous repair jobs on the chassis rail. Plan to post some updates on a regular base.

Cheers

Marco

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Today I've lifted the rear tub.... as you can see parts have been replaced. Parts are missing, e.g. the axle strap and bump stop bracktets.

I'm not yet sure what I will do with the chassis..

- Budget option is only replacing bad parts.

- More expensive but much less work is fitting a 1/2 chassis and the two front legs. Anybody experience with that 1/2 chassis replacement part? Paddocks is doing one for GBP 140+VAT.

- Last but most expensive is a new chassis but with the intended low mileage use that's a bit questionable. Vehicle will be parked indoors any way so any repair job will last. My aim is not a concours vehicle but a original 1965 S2A to be used on sunny/dry days and short distances.

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As you guys like the welding job.... some more pictures!

Might go for a replacement chassis but will depend on total costs. Fixing this one (materials only) will probably cost me 200 Pounds, front sections, rear x-member + extensions and some 2mm strips/sheeting. A new frame + collection/shipping will cost me +/- 1000-1200 Pounds I guess. But that will save me a lot of time...

My intention is to use this Landy during the summer only and park it inside so if I do repair the chassis it will last too.

Nice pick-up!

And you think you've got problems :ph34r:

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My series 3 109 that I'm currently doing a lot of welding to :P

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Today I've lifted the rear tub.... as you can see parts have been replaced. Parts are missing, e.g. the axle strap and bump stop bracktets.

I'm not yet sure what I will do with the chassis..

- Budget option is only replacing bad parts.

- More expensive but much less work is fitting a 1/2 chassis and the two front legs. Anybody experience with that 1/2 chassis replacement part? Paddocks is doing one for GBP 140+VAT.

- Last but most expensive is a new chassis but with the intended low mileage use that's a bit questionable. Vehicle will be parked indoors any way so any repair job will last. My aim is not a concours vehicle but a original 1965 S2A to be used on sunny/dry days and short distances.

I would check availability first!

When I wanted a 1/4 front end chassis for the series 3 109 was told that the company had gone bust and no stock anywhere, struggled to get hold of a pair of dumb irons.

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I would check availability first!

When I wanted a 1/4 front end chassis for the series 3 109 was told that the company had gone bust and no stock anywhere, struggled to get hold of a pair of dumb irons.

Thanks for the info, I will probably replace the dumb irons only at this stage as the rest of the chassis (and repairs) will probably last another couple of years. I do see parts listed at e.g. Paddocks, will check.

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Thanks for the info, I will probably replace the dumb irons only at this stage as the rest of the chassis (and repairs) will probably last another couple of years. I do see parts listed at e.g. Paddocks, will check.

Listed but dunt mean they have them! Paddocks did'nt have any in stock last month, got mine from Craddocks.

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That's a very tidy-looking job you've done there Jason.

If you intend to buy Paddocks chassis parts, then try to find out who makes them as some are really bad quality. I bought two dumb irons for my 109 a few years ago and they were clearly different from each other. I ended-up sorting through a load of them in order to get two the same :( If the spring eyes aren't in the same position relative to the chassis rails - the truck will sit on the wonk!

I recently replaced the front crossmember on V8Freaks 110V8 and used a crossmember cut off a good chassis. Alignment is everything, obviously or the truck will look ridiculous. I butt-welded the new crossmember on, ground the welds flat, then saddled over the join (you don't want the front end to drop off :)

A few pictures in case you're interested.

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As this vehicle has PAS - I had to plate over the mounting holes and then drill them out again afterwards.

Les.

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That's a very tidy-looking job you've done there Jason.

If you intend to buy Paddocks chassis parts, then try to find out who makes them as some are really bad quality. I bought two dumb irons for my 109 a few years ago and they were clearly different from each other. I ended-up sorting through a load of them in order to get two the same :( If the spring eyes aren't in the same position relative to the chassis rails - the truck will sit on the wonk!

I recently replaced the front crossmember on V8Freaks 110V8 and used a crossmember cut off a good chassis. Alignment is everything, obviously or the truck will look ridiculous. I butt-welded the new crossmember on, ground the welds flat, then saddled over the join (you don't want the front end to drop off :)

As this vehicle has PAS - I had to plate over the mounting holes and then drill them out again afterwards.

Les.

Hi Les, that does look like a solid repair job :) I've just ordere some dumb irons from Paddocks (dispatched already), asked them to make sure they match up. Will have to wait and see what's going to arrive in the mail.

Cheers

Marco

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And you think you've got problems :ph34r:

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My series 3 109 that I'm currently doing a lot of welding to :P

I had already replaced the outriggers, dumbirons and rear cross member on my 109, together with a patch on the main rail next to a silencer box, but it was nowhere near that bad! :blink: The next piece of rot I found resulted in me starting again from scratch with a new chassis. I figured that if you have rot as bad as that in one place, then nowhere in the chassis is going to be terribly good, and it's be a lot quicker, safer and cheaper in the long run to replace the whole thing.

Good luck with the repairs, though - you obviously have a talent for welding and are much braver than me! :)

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I had already replaced the outriggers, dumbirons and rear cross member on my 109, together with a patch on the main rail next to a silencer box, but it was nowhere near that bad! :blink: The next piece of rot I found resulted in me starting again from scratch with a new chassis. I figured that if you have rot as bad as that in one place, then nowhere in the chassis is going to be terribly good, and it's be a lot quicker, safer and cheaper in the long run to replace the whole thing.

Good luck with the repairs, though - you obviously have a talent for welding and are much braver than me! :)

Thanks Les ;)

Snagger

Rear cross member and all the out riggers have already been replaced in a past life, blasted the chassis down with a VERY power full power wash and the rest of the chassis is surprisingly good.

Last photos before my welder went up in smoke :(dscf7510.jpg

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Looks very good, but if you was a right smarty-pants, you wouldn't be so lazy by buying a dumb-iron. Those of us that aren't quite so lazy - show off and make a dumb iron themselves :P

Series 1 welder - my construction, but not my welding.

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Les :)

Lazy? Naaa "Inteligent" :P I take that back otherwise i would'nt have bought the bl**dy thing :blink:

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