Mean Green Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 The never ending saga of my RRC continues! The new tyres have dramatically helped the handling and steering, however, there is still a bit of wander. It does not happen when under power, only noticable when cruising at 50mph+, there is also a noticable vibration through the steering when you go over a bump. the best way to describe it is feeling loose - it corners fine, but on straights it wanders and I find that I am always correcting it one way then t'other. My thinking is that it is one of three things - or a combination of all three... 1. Swivel pre-tension needs adjusting 2. Steering damper needs replacing 3. Tracking is out. Am I thinking along the right lines? What else have I missed? It has had new tyres, polybushes all round, new shocks. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffg Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 Hi Are all the bushes ok. It's possible to have rear wheer steering due to knackered trailing arm bushes. Also, had this on the LSE. The steering drop arm always worked loose. When this happened, it had a mind of its own. get a big spanner/shifter and flog it up. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 Ours had this problem (amongst others) as you can see by your other 'rides like it's on jelly' post! The rear end seemed to be steering all on it's own which was largely solved by replacing the trailing arm bushes! Bit of a pain in the bum to do and involves jacking the axle in all kind of different directions, but the improvement was vast!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 I think you are on the right lines. Start with the easy ones first - check TRE's for play, then swap out the sterring damper for a known good one, then look at swivel preload. How much of a dead spot do you have in the steering around straight ahead? i.e. how much can you move the steering wheel before the wheels respond? Do you have a suspension lift? If so your castor angle will be out and this dramatically affects straight ahead sensitivity, partiucularly at speed. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush65 Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 Greg, Your have listed most of the possibles, but have left out panhard rod bushes. Faulty panhard bushes can be difficult to check properly while in place (they can look OK). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Green Posted January 24, 2006 Author Share Posted January 24, 2006 Greg,Your have listed most of the possibles, but have left out panhard rod bushes. Faulty panhard bushes can be difficult to check properly while in place (they can look OK). Cheers Guys, The Panhard bush was changed when the polybushes were done - 6 weeks ago (ish). I assume the trailing arm bushes would have been done at the same time ... I will check the kit. I will check everything at the weekend and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 Cheers Guys, The Panhard bush was changed when the polybushes were done - 6 weeks ago (ish). I assume the trailing arm bushes would have been done at the same time ... I will check the kit. I will check everything at the weekend and report back. Worth checking whether any other bushes were missed out - I don't think the standard bush kits include rear A-frame bushes (and garages seem to hate doing them). Mine still aren't done even though I supplied polybushes for everything - MJA in Bromsgrove insisted they never wear out and it was just risking wrecking the ball joint for nothing. It sounds very like the way my truck behaved when one of my swivel bearings was failing. That's easy to check - just jack the wheel off the ground and see if it can be rocked in the vertical plane (horizontal movement only would be the wheel bearing - vertical could be either, but I suspect you'd have some horizontal slack too if it was the wheel bearing). Swivel preload is harder to check, but it fixed similar behaviour from my parents discovery - at least one garage had failed to diagnose the problem, another spotted it when the truck was in for unrelated (gearbox) problems. I'm not helping narrow it down, am I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Green Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 Geoff, Thanks for the tips, you have confirmed my suspisions - all I need now is some time to have a look at it. oh Land Rovers... don't ya just love 'em! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 It sounds very like the way my truck behaved when one of my swivel bearings was failing. That's easy to check - just jack the wheel off the ground and see if it can be rocked in the vertical plane (horizontal movement only would be the wheel bearing - vertical could be either, but I suspect you'd have some horizontal slack too if it was the wheel bearing) Easiest way to distinguish between wheel bearing slack and swivel movement is by getting a helper to stick their hoof on the brake. This will hold the hub steady and show up any room in the swivels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Easiest way to distinguish between wheel bearing slack and swivel movement is by getting a helper to stick their hoof on the brake. This will hold the hub steady and show up any room in the swivels. Forgot that one - thanks DEANO I didn't have anyone handy when I did mine, so I wedged a torque wrench between the brake pedal and the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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