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changing oil seals


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4 nuts and bolts to get the propshaft off, one big nut to get the drive flange off. Carefully use a screwdriver to pry the old seal out (You can get special tools for this but usualy a screwdriver works OK) and then drift a new seal in - make sure you get it square. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. Now, find out why it failed suddenly - my money is on a blocked axle breather tube after Rusper the other week.

Chris

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4 nuts and bolts to get the propshaft off, one big nut to get the drive flange off. Carefully use a screwdriver to pry the old seal out (You can get special tools for this but usualy a screwdriver works OK) and then drift a new seal in - make sure you get it square. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. Now, find out why it failed suddenly - my money is on a blocked axle breather tube after Rusper the other week.

Chris

thanks, doesn't sound too difficult. two questions remain,when prying out the old seal using a screwdriver what do i need to be carefull of and what do use to drift the new seal in, a hammer?

regards

orange

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Be careful not to damage the casing where you use it as a fulcrum, you will find it makes it difficult to get the new seal in if you do. Fitting the new seal? Anything round that will cover the seal and allow the shaft to go through it? An old bearing outer if you have one. It can be done with a ~3/8 punch or similar.

Chris

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As I can't edit for some reason

Before you change the oil seal.Check and lean the breather pipe.Clean the diff nose off and road test.You might not need to change the seal!!

I eat rat poison

mike

I can cause trouble in an empty house

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You can get special tools for this but usualy a screwdriver works OK

After stuggling with a screwdriver for many seals i spent a few quid in Machine Mart IIRC and got myself a nice shiney seal puller, well worth it IMHO.

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the breather pipe :o

come to think of it, the back seal of the transfer case is also leaking a bit :blink:

and i have joinded both breathers ;)

so maybe its an easy fix :)

Don't bank on it though !!!!

I eat rat poison.

mike

I can cause trouble in an empty house !!

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Don't bank on it though !!!!

I eat rat poison.

mike

I can cause trouble in an empty house !!

checked it yesterday, the breathers are fine.

so no easy fix. ordered the seal, hope i can get the old one out. any mor hints that will prevent me from spending hours on the cold garage floor messing about with screw drivers would be highly appreceated!

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To undo the flanges

get to some one to press the brake pedal and make sure the wheels are chocked.

I replaced the ny-loc nuts whilst I was there too.

A large screwdriver is perfect for prising the old seals out, there will be a bit of leakage so have a rag handy

don't be concerned about a bit of movement on the front flange as it is a roller bearing not a tapered one

a few mm movement is perfectly ok.

a new front output flange is a good idea too as they wear then ruin the seals.

I put a brand new one in then changed to a disco2 prop so took it out again and stuck it on the shelf for a spare. :(

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the technique I have seen is to use a big screwdriver with a hex shaft, stick the balde in and twist the shaft using a spanner.

will change the seal tomorrow. will first try the screwdriver method. do i stick it between diff housing and seal, or do i stick it through the hole in the middel of the seal and try to lever it out?

regards

orange

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thanks for all the suggestions.

changed the seal, and after driving back home, no leaking oil under the car, so it seemed to have worked!

the method that worked for me:

take a screwdriver, put thw blade on the edge of the seal, hit it with a hammer until it makes a hole in the seal, and then lever the seal out. tokk less than five minutes.

when puting in the new seal, i used the hub nut box spanner, perfekt size, big enough to leave enough room for the pinion as well as being small enough so that it fits in then recess for the seal. and i carry it in the toolbox anyways, so one special tool for two purposes.

regards

orange

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  • 3 weeks later...
unfortunately the seal started leaking again after about three weeks!!!

it was fine after replacing it, but the started leaking again, axle breather is fine, so what did i do wrong?

regards

orange

Perhaps either the part of the flange the seal runs on is worn, or there is play in the diff pinion bearings so the flange is moving about which wears the seal out?

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Perhaps either the part of the flange the seal runs on is worn, or there is play in the diff pinion bearings so the flange is moving about which wears the seal out?

propably time to get a new pinion flange. how can i tell whether the pinion bearings are worn? i've been told that some play is normal.

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is it possible to push the seal in an extra 2 or 3mm? If so, try it. I did this on my front diff flange seal as the flange itself had a groove worn in it. by pushing the seal in further it moved the lip out of the groove. A temporary fix that has lasted 10,000 mile........

Jas

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is it possible to push the seal in an extra 2 or 3mm? If so, try it. I did this on my front diff flange seal as the flange itself had a groove worn in it. by pushing the seal in further it moved the lip out of the groove. A temporary fix that has lasted 10,000 mile........

Jas

might be an idea, but its snowing outside, so not the perfect conditions to crawl underneath the car. have access to a four post lift next weekend, will do it then. might as well get a new flange until then. looked into the parts manual, there are two ("4 spline 236632 " or 4 bolt FRC3002) think it would be four bolt since there are four bolts attaching the prop shaft. for the latter STC3722 is given as a alternate, but that is three times the price. which one should i get? its a 1988 range rover.

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might be an idea, but its snowing outside, so not the perfect conditions to crawl underneath the car. have access to a four post lift next weekend, will do it then. might as well get a new flange until then. looked into the parts manual, there are two ("4 spline 236632 " or 4 bolt FRC3002) think it would be four bolt since there are four bolts attaching the prop shaft. for the latter STC3722 is given as a alternate, but that is three times the price. which one should i get? its a 1988 range rover.

changed the seal once again, this time using stc3722 which is a complete kit including new seal and flange. the flange and seal are different though, seems like the later design. the flange is longer than the original replacing the distance piece, as well as round rather then the original four arm design.

on the drive home the seal was fine, hope it stays that way. :blink:

in case it doesn't, then it must be the bearing. can that be changed in situ or does the diff have to come out?

regards

orange

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