Marco Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 OK this might sound funny but as I do have an old Series 2 which I prefer to paint into the original pastel green but with somekind of satin (not glossy) finish. Preferable also slightly sun faded. The idea is to match the old galvanised bits with a matching 'old' paint job. Any ideas how to achieve this? Or better has somebody been doing this before? Cheers Marco (as we have no real sun shine this side a natural transformation of the paint will take way to long!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loiner1965 Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 OK this might sound funny but as I do have an old Series 2 which I prefer to paint into the original pastel green but with somekind of satin (not glossy) finish. Preferable also slightly sun faded. The idea is to match the old galvanised bits with a matching 'old' paint job. Any ideas how to achieve this? Or better has somebody been doing this before?Cheers Marco (as we have no real sun shine this side a natural transformation of the paint will take way to long!) MY LANDY IS A PASTEL COLOUR BUT GLOSS .THE ONLY WAY YOU WILL ACHIEVE A SATIN FINISH IS TO PUT SOME MATTING AGENT IN THE COLOUR YOU ARE USING....TO ME THIS IS EASY AS I PAINT CARS FOR A LIVING. IF YOU ARE USING CELLULOSE YOU COULD TRY USING A VERY FAST THINNER AS THIS CAN ACHIEVE A MATT FINISH BUT PERSONALLY I WOULD SPRAY IT GLOSS THEN CAREFULLY FLAT DOWN USING VERY FINE WET AND DRY. IF YOU NEED MORE ADVICE OR 2000 GRADE PAPER THEN GET IN TOUCH I WILL SEND SOME TO YOU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Talcum powder can be mixed with paint to make it matt, but a paint supplier will also be able to supply a flattening agent. As for the faded look, try some model makers forums, they will have a number of tricks to make their models look more authentic. For example some (non car) paints are not UV stable so will fade quickly and the use of different solvents that go off quickly will take the gloss off. Just occurred to me that the surfer dudes in their VW transporters like the faded look, try a google search to see how they do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 Thanks for these advices, the flattening agent is probably the easy way to go. Maybe together with a slight adjustment to the paint color... Sanding down a glossy finish is an alternatie, will something like steel wool be fine enough (wet)? Cheers Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Thanks for these advices, the flattening agent is probably the easy way to go. Maybe together with a slight adjustment to the paint color... Sanding down a glossy finish is an alternatie, will something like steel wool be fine enough (wet)?Cheers Marco Marco, It is something I have thought about as well. This picture shows a faded series 1: I think it looks just about right, certainly better than the full gloss restoration. The following pictures show what a modeller has done with some paint (and skill) My armchair thoughts: A coat of light grey paint A coat of green A light dusting of a darker colour around door openings, grille and recessed areas A rub all over with wire wool Deliberately rub back to the grey on the wings and doors It's on my "to do" list, not near the top I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick w Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Have seen on various programs using a wet and dry to flatten paint then an air brush with the desired finish to fade areas required thats how the model makers do it anyway (how its made) and on custom bikes (american chopper) i should get out more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Wirewool would be far too abrasive, unless you want scratches too? Take Loiner up on his offer of 2000 wet n dry I reckon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loiner1965 Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Thanks for these advices, the flattening agent is probably the easy way to go. Maybe together with a slight adjustment to the paint color... Sanding down a glossy finish is an alternatie, will something like steel wool be fine enough (wet)?Cheers Marco the finest pads i use at work are 3000 or 4000 grade....steel wool is a no no , i also use scotchbrite so its a case of suck and see really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 Thanks for the advice and images on models, that does remind me building army kits and 'painting' my electric model train (long time ago). I will try to get some fine 2000-3000 paper this side (Holland). Thanks for the offer. Cheers Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crankin Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 If you have enough time and money on your hands to experiment...you might try to wipe it down with a paint thinner or acetone as soon as you spray or roll the paint on. The paint thinner might attack/fade some of the coating before it dries. Sand spots of the finish with a fine grit sandpaper....and then try washing it regularly (once or twice a week) with a strong laundry detergent, which will begin to fade/eat away at the paint faster then normal. It will take about a year to really get a faded contrast. But hey, a year is not that bad considering that allowing mother nature to do the same effect would take at least 15-20 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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