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Timmy511

Replacement chassis - galvanise or paint?

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ive just agreed to but a replacement chassis for my 90, its solid, ive taken a centre punck to it in all the usual places and it hasnt gone through, everytime i hit it rang instead of giving the dull thud of a rot box. Being solid id like to keep it that way.

befor i do the rebuild would you get it galvanised or waxoyl/paint it with POR 15 or similar.

the landrover will being doing alot of play days and some winch challenges, a friend whos been off roading for years has told me that galvanising isnt the best idea for a vehicle seeing heavy off roading as it heat treats the chassis and makes it brittle, is this true?

how much would galvanising roughly cost?

cheers, Tim.

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Galv best

POR15 (waste of time)

paint if you want to paint it for ever more till it rots away.

As for the brittle bit I'm inclined to say that is not the case at all

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Galv best

POR15 (waste of time)

paint if you want to paint it for ever more till it rots away.

As for the brittle bit I'm inclined to say that is not the case at all

Sorry for the partial hijack but I was just about to buy a load of frost products, including POR15 to paint a bumper, my chassis and some modular wheels. You say it's a waste of time, why is that? From their own (admittedly biased) description and the views of some forum posts I've seen it would appear to be the mutts nuts.

Considering the price, if there are differing opinions out there I'd like to hear them.

Stu.

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Just to be a bit objective.....

I dont think it was meant that the paint is rubbish just that you are only coating the outside of the chassis and hence wasting your time.

As the bare metal inside the box section of the chassis isnt protected it will continue to rot away as nature takes its course.

Galvanising will coat all surfaces exposed to the treatment (inside and outside the box section) and hence complete protection to all the bits you could never get to without difficulty.

I hope my pennies worth is helpfull.

Cheers

G :)

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Just to be a bit objective.....

I dont think it was meant that the paint is rubbish just that you are only coating the outside of the chassis and hence wasting your time.

As the bare metal inside the box section of the chassis isnt protected it will continue to rot away as nature takes its course.

Galvanising will coat all surfaces exposed to the treatment (inside and outside the box section) and hence complete protection to all the bits you could never get to without difficulty.

I hope my pennies worth is helpfull.

Cheers

G :)

no the paint just peels off anything but rust metal

waste of my time and money

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i would get the chassis galvanised if you have the option after (as already mentioned) winch, cage, wing bar mounts etc have been added.

POR 15 works best on rust surfaces but still peels off with time or a descent PW.

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Sorry but are we talking about galvanising a rusty chassis here?

If the chassis is rusty it will need to be shot blasted first but this will not remove rust from the inside.

If you want to do a decent job then buy a galvanised chassis or if you need to modify the chassis then buy a new one, modify it, then galvanise it.

If you want to do it on the cheap then remove all the rust, grind, sand and brush, paint it and Waxoyl the inside.

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Sorry but are we talking about galvanising a rusty chassis here?

If the chassis is rusty it will need to be shot blasted first but this will not remove rust from the inside.

If you want to do a decent job then buy a galvanised chassis or if you need to modify the chassis then buy a new one, modify it, then galvanise it.

If you want to do it on the cheap then remove all the rust, grind, sand and brush, paint it and Waxoyl the inside.

good point, i had assumed it was new std one, but reading the initial post maybe not.

i just had a new chassis from Richards (galv) with all the bits added first and it was good value for money with good galv job and all the holes were cleared post galv. they added in all the bits i wanted - gearbox crossmember (modified), rear winch tray, cage mounts for very good money.

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Sorry but are we talking about galvanising a rusty chassis here?

If the chassis is rusty it will need to be shot blasted first but this will not remove rust from the inside.

If you want to do a decent job then buy a galvanised chassis or if you need to modify the chassis then buy a new one, modify it, then galvanise it.

If you want to do it on the cheap then remove all the rust, grind, sand and brush, paint it and Waxoyl the inside.

No you won't, just make sure it is very clean before handing it over,

as it will get acid dipped before galvanizing, to remove all surface impurities.

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No you won't, just make sure it is very clean before handing it over,

as it will get acid dipped before galvanizing, to remove all surface impurities.

When you say very clean......... how clean?

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I am with JST on this one for the amount of work involved in a full rebuild (I have done several now) get a new chassis from Richards with all the modifications you want done before the galvanising is done then you know every thing is fine.

I have bought several chassis from Richards now and found there service and quality to be great.

If your chassis is OK buy another rusty chassised 90 Re chassis that adding all the good bits from yours then put all the leftovers back on your chassis and sell the vehicle on. The identity of the vehicle is the chassis so as long as your inform the DVLA about any engine number changes and possible colour change if you keep your bodywork its all legal and above board.

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When i had my chassis galved, they said they wouldn't accept any paint on it, as it makes a mess in the tanks, so it was blasted before dipping.

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im living on a shoestring at the moment landrover wise, so, the chassis will be off to the blaster next week, then its off to richards the week after where theyre putting some cage mounts on the back, making sure the engine mount are correct and then galvanising it. all in my chassis will have cost me less than 600 pounds.

after galvanising ill etch prime it, black hammerite it and then waxoyle it in side as best i can. if that diesnt cure it, i doubt it can be cured. i wouldnt bother galvanising it if there was any rot on the chassis, which im confident it hasnt got any.

any get befor you say it, yes they rust from the inside out but hopefully 2 hours in an acid tank pre galv will remove all that.

i just cant afford 1200 quid for a new one at the minute.

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so do you have to get an SVA with putting a second hand chassis under it? Or is it for off-road use only?

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Guest WALFY
im living on a shoestring at the moment landrover wise, so, the chassis will be off to the blaster next week, then its off to richards the week after where theyre putting some cage mounts on the back, making sure the engine mount are correct and then galvanising it. all in my chassis will have cost me less than 600 pounds.

after galvanising ill etch prime it, black hammerite it and then waxoyle it in side as best i can. if that diesnt cure it, i doubt it can be cured. i wouldnt bother galvanising it if there was any rot on the chassis, which im confident it hasnt got any.

any get befor you say it, yes they rust from the inside out but hopefully 2 hours in an acid tank pre galv will remove all that.

i just cant afford 1200 quid for a new one at the minute.

If you are galving the chassis, why are you waxoiling it as well. Surely the galv will be enough protection for the inside. Not sure you need to etch prime either. Etch prime is for bare ali to allow the paint to bond correctly. Plus etch primer has to be sprayed on. I don't know of any that can be painted on but am willing to be proved wrong

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Etch primer isn't enough for painting galvanized steel.

The object first has to be thoroughly washed with an alkaline solution

then thoroughly rinsed.

Obviously it needs drying.

Then apply etch primer and then paint.

If you don't wash first even etch primer may not stick to galv. steel.

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TBH, I wouldn't bother waxoyling (whats the Galv there for otherwise?) or painting, as when the paint starts getting chipped off it will just look ugly -a galv chassic will get a nice patina after a while, and look much better than flaky paint IMHO.

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How about the chassis number?

Can you have that stamped by the DVLA? Or will the car need a SVA with a new -not orignal- galvanised replacement chassis?

Assuming you want it all legal and don't just stamp the new chassis yourself.

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Guest WALFY

If the chassis is new and like for like replacement then you can tamp the chassis yourself. On builds that I have done in the past we've just used a stamp set and punched the number on. No need for DVLA to get involved. Just keep the receipt for the chassis for any questions that may arise in the future

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It is a problem when you try to export a car like that. If I take a car with a galvonised chassis to the Dutch DVLA to get it registered here they will not register it because the number is not original. They want a statement from the DVLA that the chassis was stamped by them OR that the chassis is an original Land Rover part (Richards is not allowed here)...

That's a shame, now I can't buy cars with galvanised chassis in the UK (untill I can find a way to get an original looking VIN in it, with the Leyland logo's before and after it)

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er.... :unsure:

If you put a s/h chassis on another 4x4 then you are in a world of poo

The chassis on the 4x4 at the moment has a number in in tht matches the Vin and reg no etc

The s/h has a number on it, and thus if you shove this on your truck the fun starts re points system, radically alered vechile and SVA.

If you stamp a new number on it (the old one on the chassis) thats illegal, as you are in effect disguising the actual identity of the chassis / 4x4 it came off. If you grind out the number, weld it, destroy it etc, then you are really in the pooh, as you would really be knowingly doing it. Even though it not going to be tax exempt, you entering an area that will potentially if found to see you in a world of pain.

Swapping s/h chassis about to a truck for road use is now a very bad idea. Couple this with the workload to swap and as others have said get a new richards chassis be 100% legal, and have a better job when all done

Sorry to be a damp squib on this, but you need to know before you decide your route :(

Nige

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er.... :unsure:

If you put a s/h chassis on another 4x4 then you are in a world of poo

The chassis on the 4x4 at the moment has a number in in tht matches the Vin and reg no etc

The s/h has a number on it, and thus if you shove this on your truck the fun starts re points system, radically alered vechile and SVA.

If you stamp a new number on it (the old one on the chassis) thats illegal, as you are in effect disguising the actual identity of the chassis / 4x4 it came off. If you grind out the number, weld it, destroy it etc, then you are really in the pooh, as you would really be knowingly doing it. Even though it not going to be tax exempt, you entering an area that will potentially if found to see you in a world of pain.

Swapping s/h chassis about to a truck for road use is now a very bad idea. Couple this with the workload to swap and as others have said get a new richards chassis be 100% legal, and have a better job when all done

Sorry to be a damp squib on this, but you need to know before you decide your route :(

Nige

If you inform the DVLA you can fit a second hand chassis. I suggest if you intend to go down that route you contact them first to make sure the doner car is known to them before you fit it.

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Guest WALFY

Who mentioned about stamping a new number over an old chassis number :blink: I have also done another rebuild with a new chassis and again we just transferred the old number across using a correctly sized punch set designed for that specific reason. If you read my post you'll see that I spoke about a new chassis. If you buy new it has no chassis number on it for this very reason. I have a new genuine chassis on my 90. Old number just stamped on.

If you are daft enough to stamp a new number on an old chassis then quite frankly you deserve all that is coming.

If you are unsure of how to proceed then you need to seek professional advice and not rely on people who you don't know and trust implicitly.

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