gorgeous george Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I nearly dropped my gearbox back into the series 3 today after a very drawn out rebuild but remembered I had one last bolt to do up which requires a torque wrench. The output drive flange nut on the front of the output shaft requires a torque setting of 85 lb f ft. Trouble is with my gearbox all together except for this one nut I can't tighten the nut that tight without making the whole shaft spin no matter what gear it's in. Was i supposed to tighten this up before refitting the front output shaft? how should this nut be tightened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I nearly dropped my gearbox back into the series 3 today after a very drawn out rebuild but remembered I had one last bolt to do up which requires a torque wrench.The output drive flange nut on the front of the output shaft requires a torque setting of 85 lb f ft. Trouble is with my gearbox all together except for this one nut I can't tighten the nut that tight without making the whole shaft spin no matter what gear it's in. Was i supposed to tighten this up before refitting the front output shaft? how should this nut be tightened? Have you tried putting it in 4wd, and using a bar and a couple of bolts on the rear output flange..held by an "assistant" whilst you tighten the front. Altenatively i believe you can select two gears at once on the main box, if you remove the gear lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gorgeous george Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Haha I'm a little short of assistance here I'm afraid. I'll just drop it in tomorrow and connect it all up. I should be able to get to that nut after it's back in the car. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Shove the box back in. Reconnect rear propshaft. With the handbrake on and the box in gear it'll lock up allowing you to tighten the nut. Alternately just do it up with the rattle gun as the torque on this nut isnt too critical. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Hi To add to this question. i have removed the handbrake and rear output flange to change the oil seal. but i can't find any torque settings for the refitting of the output flange nut ? help please Anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Its the same setting as the front output nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 Thanks, lets just say it wasn't that tight when i took it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 HiTo add to this question. i have removed the handbrake and rear output flange to change the oil seal. but i can't find any torque settings for the refitting of the output flange nut ? help please Anders 85 lbs. (11.75kgs) Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Why not do up the handbrake adjuster tight - then leave it on a high spot between clicks while you tighten the output flange nuts? - Usually works when I do it. Its much easier to do with the box out of the vehicle as you have to fit the split pin. Torque setting is 85 lb ft for both output shaft nuts and 100 for the castellated nut at the back of the mainshaft. I can't find this figure quoted in the official manuals but is what is quoted in the Fairey overdrive instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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