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dantd5

Drag link end removal

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:unsure: My drag link end are all knackered and I am considering "unscrewing B) " it ---(All 3 on the defender 110 99 model) but they are real engulfed in each other- drag link end. I have sprayed them and hope it gradually weakens it. All efforts looks useless.. Has anyone been into this? I do consider getting it done insitu but need word from the Dons of the forum :huh:

post-7610-1229504456_thumb.jpg

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I presume you are trying to detach the track rod end (TRE) from the axle?

If so, take a look in the tech archive for one of Les' posts - you need to hit the arm of the steering joint on the axle (the bit the TRE goes through) pretty hard with a hammer. This, believe it or not, will free the TRE from the axle.

Alternatively, screw the nut back on untill all the threads are engaged and hit that with a hammer. You will muller the nut thought if the TRE is properly stuck, and most of them are.

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Undo and remove nylok nut & washer. Split joint with ball joint splitter. Job done.

Alternatively, use the Bishbosh method.

That's the easy bit. The fun starts when trying to get the old TRE's out of the tubes :P

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The fun starts when trying to get the old TRE's out of the tubes :P

Aww Dave, you've spoilt the fun now! I was saving that gem for later!! :D:D

Actually, I wouldn't bother - I would just replace the whole lot with a Sumo bar if you do even the smallest amount of off roading.

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And I assume that you mean getting the TREs out of the tube? :unsure: I can sell you a proper tool for that. ;) It grips the split in the tube, forcing it open to realease the thread.

I used one myself when i bent my trackrod. The trackrod was so solidly rusted together that the tool just ripped strips of metal off the old tube. But it held on! :P

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For getting the TREs out of the hub, undo the nut until the thread is flush with it, apply a little upward pressure with a trolley jack and hit the hub arm with a sizeable hammer. There will be several blows before the TRE lets go, but it will get there. Always worked for me. How much pressure to apply with the trolley jack depends on how brave you are feeling - start with a little and increase slightly if they are being obtuse!!

As for getting the TREs out of the track rod/drag link........pop to your local spares shop and buy some new ones. Unless they were recently fitted, in which case a warm up with a blo torch might see them loosen slightly!!

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To break the bond between corroded threads on a track/drag rod, while leaving both parts reusable, I find resting the rod on a hard solid surface (anvil or vice attached to a strong bench) and repeated light blows with a hammer to the top side works. Keep rotating the rod and working the length of rod where the threads overlap. Its not a quick fix, but its never failed me on a LR track rod yet. The theory is the vibrations/load changes break the corrosion bond, it also gives you something to do while the penetrating fluid gets to work.

Oh and when rebuilding, use liberal quantities of "copper slip anti sieze assembly compound" or what ever other names the stuff goes by, you will be glad you did come the next time.

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:huh: Wow!! A million thanks for that. I will get it going this weekend and send a detailed report! Solid handshakes to all contributors!! :mellow: B)

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To get the TRE out the drag link you need to be REALLY subtle. Suggest a 4lb lump hammer as a min then apply moderate to significant abuse rotating as you smack it, you need to cover the full length of thread engagement which can be quite deep. Don't apply abuse beyond this point or future adjustment becomes rether limited. Having broken the rusty bond you will prbably still need a good pair of Stillies to unwind it.

Have fun!

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