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Posted

I want to extend the wheel base on my 90 trayback abit,

How long are giggle pin arms over standard?

What do you guys do with the A-Frame?

And I take it its easiest to cut the springs seats off and weld them back on further back?

IS IT ALL WORTH IT?

Posted
I want to extend the wheel base on my 90 trayback abit,

How long are giggle pin arms over standard?

What do you guys do with the A-Frame?

And I take it its easiest to cut the springs seats off and weld them back on further back?

IS IT ALL WORTH IT?

Hi,

Gigglepin arms are about 300mm longer than standard, you could move the front axle forward aswell to get good weight distribution, bit more work involved but i would say its worth doing,

Carl.

Posted
Hi,

Gigglepin arms are about 300mm longer than standard, you could move the front axle forward aswell to get good weight distribution, bit more work involved but i would say its worth doing,

Carl.

Whats easier, moving the front forward or the rear backwards? Seen more rearward conversion bits personally.

Posted

my richards chassis,north off road version(the one used in the richards adverts in the mags) uses gigglepin rear arms and extended rear a-frame made by p&p.The rear a frame crossmember and radius arm mounts are in the standard position but cos the arms are 7" longer they take the wheelbase upto 100"

Paul :)

post-839-1230752486_thumb.jpgpost-839-1230752522_thumb.jpg

Posted
Whats easier, moving the front forward or the rear backwards? Seen more rearward conversion bits personally.

I think it depends on what you are after, Larger/wider tyres get very close to bulkhead outriggers or you want better weight distribution as the front axle would sit well forward of engine, boothy has added 12" to his truck and moved engine back aswell, obviously the rear axle back is a lot less work, I did both on my still un-finnished truck so it is 106" wheel base with front 6" forward plus bulkhead and engine 3" back, Lots of extra work, but when finnished will be worth it,

Carl.

Posted

i agree with Carl,i currently have 36" simex tyres fitted and could probably go up to 37/38" but that would be all.Any bigger would require either the front axle moving forward or some major mods to the bulkhead outriggers.Either way would be a lot of work but worth considering if you are planning really big tyres

Paul :huh:

  • 6 months later...
Posted
my richards chassis,north off road version(the one used in the richards adverts in the mags) uses gigglepin rear arms and extended rear a-frame made by p&p.The rear a frame crossmember and radius arm mounts are in the standard position but cos the arms are 7" longer they take the wheelbase upto 100"

Paul :)

post-839-1230752486_thumb.jpgpost-839-1230752522_thumb.jpg

Excuse my ignorance, but what chassis is it? I'm toying with the idea of stretching my 90 once I begin the trayback process, but don't know if it's doable on my current setup and I may need a new galvy unit!

Cheers,

Al :lol:

Posted
Excuse my ignorance, but what chassis is it? I'm toying with the idea of stretching my 90 once I begin the trayback process, but don't know if it's doable on my current setup and I may need a new galvy unit!

Cheers,

Al :lol:

Its do-able on any chassis,is a galv unit worth it if you are going to damage the chassis in off road use, you will most probably kill the chassis before it rots, lots of people have moved the rear axle back on their 90's ,

Carl.

Posted
Its do-able on any chassis,is a galv unit worth it if you are going to damage the chassis in off road use, you will most probably kill the chassis before it rots, lots of people have moved the rear axle back on their 90's ,

Carl.

Awesome!

*begins the head scratching*

Posted

definataly worth doing I've driven marsies truck (don't know why he let me but he did) and got it all wrong going through a rut. If i'd been in my 90 it would have been close to going over but his motor just drove straight through it. I'd never throught of doing it but now I've seen the light

Posted

I moved my front axle forwards about 4" and moved the engine back 7". Driving up steep slopes and over rough ground is significantly improved. I run GP arm with a standard A frame but not without problems.

Posted
I moved my front axle forwards about 4" and moved the engine back 7". Driving up steep slopes and over rough ground is significantly improved. I run GP arm with a standard A frame but not without problems.

What problems have you found with that?

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Old Topic I know, but I was wondering... What needs doing to move front axle forward? Move springs/shock mounts, move radius arms, and what about steering components? can they be twisted for 3 inch of movement?

I want to do it as have a lovely winch bumper (thanks Carl) but attack angle is not enough. will tray back rear so dont need to worry about that, but dont want to move engine, Tbox, Gbox etc bak to sit winch inboard... just dont want to start and then get in over my head with moving EVERYTHING.

Oh, also she doesnt go on the road much (2 miles to my local pay and play is plenty, otherwise she has a piggy back ride so 'road handling' isnt a problem.

Many thanks

Pete

Posted

Ah, also, if i fit 37x13 boggers without spacers turning circle will be poo, with spacers i wont fit through the trees...

can radius arms be moved inside chassis or do they fowl things (like engine, steering bits or diff?)

Thanks again

Pete

Posted

Ah, also, if i fit 37x13 boggers without spacers turning circle will be poo, with spacers i wont fit through the trees...

can radius arms be moved inside chassis or do they fowl things (like engine, steering bits or diff?)

Thanks again

Pete

You could go for a 1 (or 2 depending on how you count it) link kit on the front for better turning circle.

See http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Link-Land-Rover-Suspension-kit-system-extreme-/140579999469?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20bb388eed

As for increasing the wheel base you might be able to swap your chassis for a disco 1 which already has the 100 inch wheel base.

Posted

Old Topic I know, but I was wondering... What needs doing to move front axle forward?

Lots :D esp if you keep standard lr parts/springs etc...

but if you fitted full hydro steering and coilovers or air shocks, all you would need to do is lengthen the radius arms and move the panhard mount point as far forward as you can... oh and a custom prop would be needed....

simples ;)

Posted

just do it

i built 100 tray using devon 4x4 arms and long A frame bracket, cut off spring seats and move back, i also used there extended rear winch mount.

100 wheel base disco rrc props but i moved engine back so swapping props front to back ie rear prop is now on front

i run simex 35s with no issues

best mod i ever did was extend chassis after having 90s 110s and discos il stick with 100 now

little mod i did was cut chassis off at front of front x member and shorten bonnet and wings to fit it awsome aproach angle now :)

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