defender 3 speed heater

[autolandy90]

[this modis so easy,and if you have the 2002 dash without headlamp adjust even better,but not needed as switch can be placed anywhere yer want.

Any ways you will need a trip to scrap yard, you will need 2 things a COOLING FAN SWITCH from a rover 100 and the BALIST RESISTER which is fitted under the bonnet under a small piece of metal next to the cooling fan.(top right hand side)

The switch has a number of wires that correspond to the same wires on the resister ,the switch is fitted in the cab somewhere and the resister near the fan motor under the bonnet,a small loom consisting of 3 wires will be needed to joint the 2 together.

Basiculy on the switch is a thick black /red wire this needs a earth and thin black/red wire is connected to the side lamps.

The other 3 wires connect the the resister via the made up short loom.

The 4th wire on the resister has a spade terminal on it cut this off and fit a bullet terminal,which connectes to the green wire on the motor.

SWITCH thick red/black earth

thin red/black side lamps

black/white to same wire on resistor

black/yellow to same wire on resistor

black/pink to same wire on resistor this wire then goes to motor see diagram.

[western]

A link to the Tech Archive with this excellent project has been requested

Nice little job

[PaulMc]

Brown and Gammons are selling brand new Rover 100/Metro Fan Switches on eBay for £4.95

METRO HEATER FAN SWITCH, BRAND NEW (YUK10003)

[Mean Green]

What is the gain on this mod?

ie does it gave a faster top fan speed ie is III faster current or does it give more intermediate speeds?

[Lars L]

I've installed another resistor in my 110, so now it's three speeds. Obviously there is no more to get on full speed, but since low speed is so darn low, an intermediate speed is what I wanted.

[Cat_J]

So this just replaces the push/pull lever?

[western]

partly the left slide also operates the flap the allows air into the lower dash duct.

[Cat_J]

On a side note how do I adjust the cable that closes the vents to the footwell. I couldn't see an explanation in your other thread.

So with this modification the left slide would no longer control the fan speed? I could see the use in that considering the nut sheered off when I tried to adjust it and LR want £10 for a replacement.

[western]

at the right slide IIRC, found that cable on mine had broke about 10mm from the end, just removed the busted bit & refited the working end, otherwise I didn't need to do anything to that cable as it was working OK.

[autolandy90]

there is an increase in motor speed and with the push pull leaver the power only goes though 2 resistors,now its going though 3 and final speed, speed3, has less resistance so motor faster,much much better i think.

[Lars L]

Top speed is directly to earth (at the lever, of course) and doesn't go via any resistor... I gained a few revs when I experimented with a relay on the +side. Not worth the trouble in actual blowing performance...

[autolandy90]

mmm. i think a 3 speed is a massive advantage over the landrover pushpull leaver as resistance in the leaver biulds up and fan performace will suffer,try a ohms reading and the fan end.

[technical]

Hi. Can this work on a Defender 90 - 200 Tdi? Where is the resistor located? Are the wires / wiring different? Thanks.

[western]

heater boxes are common to 90 & 110, the resistor is under the rivetted on plate where the wires go in to the heater box.

[Snagger]

If you're going to use a rotary switch for this, why not keep it realy simple and effective by using a potentiometer so that you have completely variable speed, anywhere from nil to full rpm? The wiring would be simpler too, using only the full-speed wire to the original switch connected to the potentiometer and the original earth wire - no need for extra wires, terminals or resistors.

[Retroanaconda]

There are 15-amp PWM controllers on eBay which would be more than suitable for the task, take a potentiometer as the input.

[LandyManLuke]

As alluded to above, the resistor is that size for a reason, you won't easily find a pot that is up to the job. A PWM controller is a much better solution, if you want to go to the effort of having an infinitely variable fan.

[technical]

As alluded to above, the resistor is that size for a reason, you won't easily find a pot that is up to the job. A PWM controller is a much better solution, if you want to go to the effort of having an infinitely variable fan.

I must admit - I'm not good with car electrics... so how does a PWM controller get wired to the heater and where does the potentiometer come in? Any sketch drawings with wiring, etc would be a big help and the exact spec for the items. Thanks in advance.

[Ex Member]

If you want simple, Cole-Hersee makes 3 speed switches with built in resistors... http://www.elecdirect.com/product/b4ad6ed0-ebf7-4748-9290-212c49a454a9.aspx

[Retroanaconda]

I must admit - I'm not good with car electrics... so how does a PWM controller get wired to the heater and where does the potentiometer come in? Any sketch drawings with wiring, etc would be a big help and the exact spec for the items. Thanks in advance.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170398545533

Something like that. On that example, the supply would come to the unit (via the 15A fuse in the fusebox) on the red wire. Then the large green wire to earth. Large white and yellow wires would go to the fan motor. One connection to the supply side and one to the ground, trial and error would tell you which is which. The potentiometer is pre-wired, but could be extended if needed.

Just an example of course, but the basic principle is the same with all simple PWM controllers.

Also bear in mind that your left hand heater slider, which controls the fan speed, also controls the main air feed flap. So it would need to be opened (down) before you turn on your motor or nothing would happen as there'd be no airflow.

[technical]

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=170398545533

Something like that. On that example, the supply would come to the unit (via the 15A fuse in the fusebox) on the red wire. Then the large green wire to earth. Large white and yellow wires would go to the fan motor. One connection to the supply side and one to the ground, trial and error would tell you which is which. The potentiometer is pre-wired, but could be extended if needed.

Just an example of course, but the basic principle is the same with all simple PWM controllers.

Also bear in mind that your left hand heater slider, which controls the fan speed, also controls the main air feed flap. So it would need to be opened (down) before you turn on your motor or nothing would happen as there'd be no airflow.

Have looked at the PWM on ebay - what sort of switch do I need to give that variable motor running from zero to anywhere inbetween to full? Then, which coloured wires go to what on the switch?

Sorry for asking dumb questions - but does this then mean that the resistor is disconnected and the wires on the current fan switch are also disconnected (just asking as it was mentioned that the current fan switch would need to be in the open position).

Thanks for all your help.

[Retroanaconda]

The PWM I linked to on eBay comes with the rotary switch to control it.

As for the existing fan switch, I would disconnect it and just run the wire directly from the fusebox to the PWM module, and then to the fan motor. As described in my other reply above. The resistor (which is inside the motor housing somewhere I think) would still be there, but wouldn't be used as you'd be using the other wire, the 'full power' one.

The power supply wire to the motor, in which you'd need to insert the PWM module, is coloured Purple/Green and should run from fuse 5 in the fusebox to the blower motor. Then two wires run to earth via the fan speed switch, one Green/Slate which is the full power one, and the other Green/Yellow which goes via the resistor and provides the low-speed option. You would need to disconnect both and then just take the Green/Slate one directly to earth.

That's how I'd be looking at doing it anyhow.

[Ex Member]

Be careful using pot setup. Running two low of a voltage will prevent the motor from turning and cook the windings eventually.

[technical]

Be careful using pot setup. Running two low of a voltage will prevent the motor from turning and cook the windings eventually.

To be on the safe side - I think I will probably go down the 3 speed fan speed route using the Rover 100 Switch and ballist resistor.

[Aodh_OMisceill]

Hi all,

 

Reviving this very old thread.

I have had the same issue as many with the strip on the fan speed controller going ( took a lot of circuit testing to figure it out ).

Is the stock resistor not up to the job ( I have a slightly different set up with a resistor from Simon Brown on ebay - here's the link: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Tdi-Td5-90-110-demister-fan-speed-increase-kit/164623363716?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649).

So my question is as follows: would this above resistor be up to the job when combined with a Rover Metro 100 1990 on heater rotary switch YUK10003 or do I need to get myself a ballast resistor, which the OP is using in conjunction with YUK10003?

 

Thanks for any feedback on this!

 

Aodh