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Posted

While driving today when slowing down to a stop with the clutch down I could feel and hear what seemed to be the props banging and feel the car lumping to a stop. My guess is its time to replace the props and UJs but would it be worth trying replacing the UJs first?

It did 300 miles for work alright today but from the feel of it its all about to go wrong.

Posted

no need to replace the props, just fit new UJ's, but before doing that give each joint a good shake to see if they are worn & shove some grease in them too, about 4 strokes of the grease gun filled with LM grease will do.

Posted
While driving today when slowing down to a stop with the clutch down I could feel and hear what seemed to be the props banging and feel the car lumping to a stop. My guess is its time to replace the props and UJs but would it be worth trying replacing the UJs first?

It did 300 miles for work alright today but from the feel of it its all about to go wrong.

I'm not sure if it is the U.J's (sounds like it might be something else) but its easy to tell from under the vehicle. Try turning the prop by hand or use a large screwdriver and any play will soon become evident. Also check the sliding joint on the prop. Mine had worn splines, the only remedy is a new prop, not too expensive though and comes complete with U.J's.

When seperating any parts make sure you mark them first so they can be put back in exactly the same alignment, otherwise the prop may become unbalanced indicated by a rumbling noise at certain speeds. (I know this from experience!)

Mark

Posted

Don't even TRY to see if the UJs have had it with the props on the truck

Take them off, then wiggle the UJ up down and all angles you'll either think its fine, or quickly find a tight spot, if so replace the UJs. At the same time to check the sliding joint try to do a I can bend this pop into a U shape, from all angles - if there is a huge flop in the splines then the entire prop is junk, chaepy props have plastic covered spines which once worn are toast :(

If you do replace the UJs use something decent, with a part that comes in a box where the maker owns up to who made it - GKN hardy Spicer not some white plain box with milk chocolate part in it as you'll be repalcing again in less than a month :(

Also while the props off grab the output flange and try lifting it up and down, it slack then bearing gone, do the same with the diff flange - slack there is input pinion bearing gone, then turn handbrake as it will roate freeely without prop on, does it freely move or pick up / stick etc

HTH

Nige

Posted

Handbrake is my guess, check the adjuster is still bolted on firmly and that the adjuster is releasing all the way. As the drum pads catch they lock on, can make some terrible noises.

I've had this on a series and a 1991 disco.

Posted

I dont want to be the one who gives the bad news, but I had this exact same thing happen to me and after changing the UJ's I found out that it was the Tranfer box winding up, hope it turns out otherwise for you.

Posted

I'm used to defender related bad news. I was looking at Hardy Spicer anyway as I've never been into buying cheap replacement as they always break. I don't think it does it when the clutch is up, although I could have missed that.

Posted
I'm used to defender related bad news. I was looking at Hardy Spicer anyway as I've never been into buying cheap replacement as they always break. I don't think it does it when the clutch is up, although I could have missed that.

Mine was the same, it was OK when the clutch was up but coming to a slow stop with the clutch down it sounded awful, I took mine to Solihull Mick (forum member on here) who said instantly it was the T-Box.

Posted

I had a similar issue with my 110, and it turned out that the bolts on the front prop were slightly loose. Check these out before you go down the expensive route.

Tom

Posted

Just out of curiosity is there anyone on here near me who can weld? I'm in diss. If its the handbreak I know whats wrong but I need someone to make a tack weld.

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